Replacement key drama

[sonic_attack 89]

I've an e34 540i. The two button remote key is tired / stuffed, well the buttons are at least so I'll need a new one.

Get a quote from JC-BMW $320. OK a bit costly but fine I'll use that as a base and have a look around. Go out to GT Metronix in Panmure and they've a replacement key for me - $350 but I won't have to wait for it to turn up from Germany. I consider it for 5 seconds and OK it so the key is cut. He steps into my car to program / sync it and it doesn't work! He tries another key and still no good.

He'd been using the innards out of the old key, the chip or whatnot.

I'm reluctant to pay for something that doesn't work (or pay $350 at least) and he's confident the key is fine and it's the infrared system in the car. It was a pretty broad and non-commital generalisation when I pressed though... So I leave my details with his keys that don't work and leave - Great guys by the way so hopefully I can get to the bottom of this and return there.

I call into McMillan in Newmarket just to get a dealer perspective - I live in town so it was more convenient than travelling to JC-BMW on the shore (where I work). A bit of an odd experience, helpful parts guy but a bit cagey and a lot of ass-covering going on when informing me my only option was to front up with the cash to order a key from Germany and take my chances and hope for the best. If it was $32 I wouldn't mind. $320 is a pretty costly exercise if it turns out to be a round-about trip to nothing...

One thing I do know - I need a replacement key.

The one from Germany will have a new chip / transponder thing.

The local one which is practically exactly the same will use my existing chip / transponder from the tired old key.

That's fine, I'm up for that cost anyway.

But what else am I missing? Where else can I look for a solution should the key's be fine but "something" else encompassing the infrared system is crook? There are no warnings or anything obvious flashing at me so I just don't know, I want to know so then I can direct any cash at it. I can't blindly go chucking money at something and hope. Is there a way someone can test the system with another key? McMillian had a spare chip / transponder to test - But it relied on using the customers outer key to use - My key's buttons are stuffed... So no use at all .

I even resorted to approaching some stranger with the same car in Parnell on the way home but he had an aftermarket immobilizer! lol!

Where do I go from here? Anyone deal with this before or have an opinion?

[Eagle 1661]

When you say the new key doesn't work, are you meaning the remote locking isnt working on it or the key isnt starting the car?

[sonic_attack 89]

Hi, the buttons aren't working to lock/unlock. the key started the car fine.

I've a factory alarm system, I'm assuming the key central locking also arms/disarms that as well. I had some trouble with the alarm initially (ive owned the car 2-3 weeks) If you didn't operate the manual key locking (in the drivers door) accurately the alram would trip so it was giving me headaches until I pulled the fuse from under the seat completely disabling the alarm system. This morning I replaced the fuse which also brought back my dash computer.

Oddly, the double locking action of the key in the door is no longer arming the alarm, or I can't see the indicators flash at least.

For all intent and purpose the goal is to be armed with the factory key so I can press a button on it to lock/unlock arm/disarm alarm. I'm assuming it really is that simple?

[Eagle 1661]

Dont think the key can arm the system just disable it. So has the key fob has never worked at all? no led?. Did you have the fuse in when trying to resync it?

Lot of possibilities, assuming the right procedure was used it can takes a few goes to get it to sync

The alarm system may need to be reinitialized using software and have to keys resynced

[Eagle 1661]

Im Assuming your central locking is working fine

[sonic_attack 89]

Yep, fuse was in when key was being synced/initialized. I sorted that prior to anything. Well I plugged the fuse back in and the OBC worked again. I really don't know what to do after that. Disconnect battery for 30mins? Hop on one foot? I just don't know.

Central locking works fine with key. Just do the "double lock" of twisting the key anti clockwise in the lock and it's all locked. I can even do the half twist close sunroof / windows / lock method with the key.

Edit* The key buttons have never worked, actually the buttons are gone, just a couple of holes where the buttons were. the chip seems fine. The guys at GT Motronix installed it into the new key body and apparently it was functioning, although it didn't work... I know, I don't understand that either.

Edited April 26, 2014 by sonic_attack

[NZ BMW 368]

Are you sure your car has an alarm? Mine does not, I believe its more common on Japanese imported cars.

Also I would have thought that you could test the alarm system with a good scanner/computer.

[sonic_attack 89]

FWIW: The gas flap has never locked. Not with the key anyway. I'll assume the electric mechanism is shot. Would this cause the key syncing procedure to fail on my car? ie: it's a component of the central locking that isn't functioning?

[KwS 2423]

even if the rubber bits on the key are gone, can you manually press the actual button on the circuit board to see if it works (or bridge the contacts if its a silicone button)? Thats also provided the battery isnt dead.

[sonic_attack 89]

Are you sure your car has an alarm? Mine does not, I believe its more common on Japanese imported cars.

Also I would have thought that you could test the alarm system with a good scanner/computer.

I'm quite sure the car has an alarm. lights and indicators flashing and a loud alarm siren sound (from the horn) would suggest that..

PS: My vin shows a factory alarm fitted, this was confirmed at McMillan today.

Edited April 26, 2014 by sonic_attack

[sonic_attack 89]

even if the rubber bits on the key are gone, can you manually press the actual button on the circuit board to see if it works (or bridge the contacts if its a silicone button)? Thats also provided the battery isnt dead.

I'm going to buy some batteries now and confirm that. I've actually depressed the buttons/microswitches on the chip and there is a slight depression there. That was my initial thought too, but like I said the guy at GT Motronix was confident in the key? Maybe he was just assuming it was functional.

[Eagle 1661]

FWIW: The gas flap has never locked. Not with the key anyway. I'll assume the electric mechanism is shot. Would this cause the key syncing procedure to fail on my car? ie: it's a component of the central locking that isn't functioning?

Don't think there any switches to tell control module if its locked or not so wouldnt think so.

[BM WORLD 1283]

try ross at bm workshop for genuine prob better price

or boris at expresskeys.co.nz for a new made up one i am sure its about $200??

i have spare remote modules from other keys etc if needed , just reprograme to work with your car.

[sonic_attack 89]

Well im kinda glad the gt motronix key didnt work. Rolled dpwn to mr minute downtown shopping center to buy replacement batteries and this guy is cutting a key with blank key body for $99!

Ill have a functional key buttons at least for my chip to bolt into. I get the feeling gt motronix didnt stick at it long enough. From what ive read today the sync process is turn key to position 1 in ignition the hold unlock and hit lock 3 times, or vice versa.

[elmarco 56]

GT Mechtronix are one of the sketchiest outfits i've come across.... The new key outers they use are cheap junk really - the buttons dont sit properly on one i got from them & their service was shocking - like they were doing me a favour. The key guys were locked in a room upstairs which was off limits & the guy downstairs had no idea really. They couldnt even get the invoice right for what they quoted me - $95 for a new key outer using my internals which sounds exactly like what you have had only you had the priveledge of a $350 invoice.

I would much rather spend the $300 at Team McMillan or JC BMW.

[sonic_attack 89]

GT Mechtronix are one of the sketchiest outfits i've come across.... The new key outers they use are cheap junk really - the buttons dont sit properly on one i got from them & their service was shocking - like they were doing me a favour. The key guys were locked in a room upstairs which was off limits & the guy downstairs had no idea really. They couldnt even get the invoice right for what they quoted me - $95 for a new key outer using my internals which sounds exactly like what you have had only you had the priveledge of a $350 invoice.

I would much rather spend the $300 at Team McMillan or JC BMW.

Roger that.

I found the casual back-yardiness kinda pleasant though. To tell the truth I'd rather not be spending $300 at all. That's around 15% of the value of the car, for a bloody key! And then I'm only hopeful of the key itself being the problem in this scenario.

Well it's only been a short and painful process. The Mr Minute key guy screwed up and gave me a 3 button key lol! he's like "Yep, we got them no problem, no problem at all" I get home to screw the internals from old key into new and was WTF'ing for a minute before cycling back down there. A bit of a long conversation in Mandarin and it turns out I can pick up the correct key body from New Lynn tomorrow.

So I suspect this chip is no good, that's my gut feeling anyway. Upon closer inspection it appears only one of the two buttons on the chip is actuating, or actuating properly. Just has that feel about it anyway.

[yng_750 247]

Doesnt the infrared have to be paired to the car after battery instalation. My e39 did.

Had to do a combo of ignition on and off to authorise the chip then hold down unlock pointing at mirror to set the remote locking

[hotwire 352]

Jap models are infra red, Euro spec are RF. The remote locking has nothing to do with immobiizing the car. Yes, as above - they need re initialising to the car when they have been dismantled.

[twisted 45]

You can buy the rubbers cheap on trade me. I found they don't fit perfectly, but good enough. Key won't need to be 're initialized provided the battery is out less than10secs iirc

[sonic_attack 89]

So just out of interest, and I'm completely ignorant to how the factory alarm is supposed to work.. How does my factory alarm work?

NZ new 1993 e34 540i. I'll have a two button remote to control central locking and presumably arming/disarming the alarm? Or would I need something else?

[beemn 50]

You should still be able to arm and disarm by using the key in the door, red LED on the center dash air vent will tell you if its on or not.

[sonic_attack 89]

Yep, alarm still functional. Found that out today, seem to have a handle on turning it off using the key now.

Picked up a new key body and chip for inside courtesy of Brent (thanks again!). key appears to do what it's supposed to (ie: red light flash on button pressing) though theres maybe a little conjecture regarding the year of chip for the key supplied? I've looked over it and everything is identical bar the inked number identifying the chip, though this is only 2 digits away from the OG chip.

Had more than several goes at syncing key to no avail.

It appears an actuator in the boot is dysfunctional. I have resynced the door locks using a method found on bmwe34.net. But still no go at syncing key to lock/arm.

I fear a lockout of the IR module/programming is a great possibility - Dealer fix apparently. May give a call to some advertisers here who're in the Albany/Shore area and see if there's any tricks or tips. I feel pretty close to a resolution though.