Ace Of Spades 51 Report post Posted May 25, 2014 Starting to plan my m30 rebuild and need a few pointers ..... Does anyone know the safe max degrees a m30 camshaft can be with out getting aftermarket valves/springs? ( eg regrind) Would the m30 benefit at all from cam/head work or would it just be best to rebuild it to stock spec? (going in an e30) Any common problems with crank or bearings on a high km block? (245miles) cheers ace 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
No name user 379 Report post Posted May 25, 2014 yes to head work and cam but flow bench the head first to see whats needed Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BM WORLD 1283 Report post Posted May 25, 2014 i think schrick 282 or 286 is pretty comon upgrade for a m30 . new rings and bearings would be good check for bore wear . you can bore these out a bit and fit custome higher compression pistons etc Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Driftit 2078 Report post Posted May 25, 2014 Rockers are an issue when playing with the head. The are the M30's biggest weak point. You also need to be careful which ones you upgrade too. Many are no stronger but will advertise as such. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ace Of Spades 51 Report post Posted May 26, 2014 awesome, cheers for the advise guys!.. few more q's Whats the best places to buy said rockers from? Who you recommended for head work? Best place to buy gaskets nd stuff? .........Would my money be better spent on turbo setup with head studs and mls hg? or full rebuild with head work? (Kinda little bit power hungry ) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BM WORLD 1283 Report post Posted May 26, 2014 awesome, cheers for the advise guys!.. few more q's Whats the best places to buy said rockers from? Who you recommended for head work? Best place to buy gaskets nd stuff? ......... Would my money be better spent on turbo setup with head studs and mls hg? or full rebuild with head work? (Kinda little bit power hungry ) whats your budget?? rockers are ok unless you are doing bing revs or big cams. by martyns turbo e28 race car, had heaps spent on the engine etc. swap a std m30 back into it and sell off the race car . http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-554936775.htm costs heaps to get a little power out of a m30 , alpina , harteg etc had them at about 240-250hp HC pictons ,head work , cams , ecu , manifolds etc. you could go down the big capacitor route get a early m30 block 1979-1981 etc . bore it to 95mm , fit the later 86mm crank custom pistons with about 11:1 CR etc makes it a 3.65L then fit the e34 head. or just slap a turbo on a std engine to make 300hp + Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Silver Fox 43 Report post Posted May 26, 2014 My race car runs the E28 M30. Last dyno was at Gavins after a remap, and came up at 218rwhp. It has had the cam reground at Franklin Cams, no other mods. I had the head flowed, came back around 280hp, if I remember rightly. Obviously turbo if you want best bang for buck, hope to get mine back on the track in a couple of years with this setup. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ace Of Spades 51 Report post Posted May 26, 2014 Budget will be at a max for buying parts of a round 4k, hoping to do it a lil cheeper tho. Have most of a turbo setup available, will only need to buy little things and dyno time. Or full rebuild with a cam and head work? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ace Of Spades 51 Report post Posted May 26, 2014 My race car runs the E28 M30. Last dyno was at Gavins after a remap, and came up at 218rwhp. It has had the cam reground at Franklin Cams, no other mods. I had the head flowed, came back around 280hp, if I remember rightly. Obviously turbo if you want best bang for buck, hope to get mine back on the track in a couple of years with this setup. I have an e34 89 m30 (I think its the one with the lower compression) so turbo would be the way to go for cheep power? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eagle 1662 Report post Posted May 26, 2014 If you want power and have most of a turbo setup available it seems like a no brainier to me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eagle 1662 Report post Posted May 26, 2014 If i was staying N\A then refresh the engine, chuck in a cam, set of headers, a MAF, and then get a remap. I don't think doing major head work or touching the bottom is worth the expense. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BM WORLD 1283 Report post Posted May 26, 2014 I have an e34 89 m30 (I think its the one with the lower compression) so turbo would be the way to go for cheep power? yes , will be the 9:1CR engine . but still wont be cheap to go turbo by the time its all sorted , budget 10k and you get some change you are doing well. i think with a e30 swap , if the engine was running ok . just lift the head , skim it a bit to get a little more compression . give it a valve grind , buy a good cam or get franklin cams to make you one , slap it all back together and go have fun the 300+ Nm or torque these things make will be more than anough for a e30. probably about 2k worth or work and parts Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ace Of Spades 51 Report post Posted May 26, 2014 Ok have a lot more to think about then, cheers for all the advice! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
No name user 379 Report post Posted May 26, 2014 m30 + turbo = more fun than youll know what to do with Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahmedsinc 414 Report post Posted May 26, 2014 For a 4k build budget I suspect you'd run outta dough long before the engine was ready to drop in the hole. My brother in law recently rebuilt an audi v6 with custom spec wiseco pistons, by the time they'd shipped here from the US he'd burnt $1800. add rings, bearing shells, gaskets etc etc etc and the cost soon starts mounting. Shrick cams won't be cheap! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Driftit 2078 Report post Posted May 26, 2014 You could do a cheap lower power turbo setup, but it would still be over 4K easily. Leave bottom End Stock. Leave Head stock bar the rockers ($700 through Dan Slater) Do not bother with other brands. Tried them all. These are a must. One back fire and you will break one. MLS Head Gasket ($400-$500) - I have one I can sell you brand new. I have to go to a much stronger one to handle 650hp. Turbo Manifold $1000 if you can get someone to build a mild steal one prob less. Turbo - Holset HX30/35 (See Crunchy Murch for one of these) Then you still need Fuel Pumps Surge Tank Wastegate Intercooler Oil Cooler Braded Lines Intercooler piping ECU & Tuning Diff to handle the power Drive Shaft Exhaust Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Driftit 2078 Report post Posted May 27, 2014 THB. Sell everything and buy this. http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/49446-e30-race-car/ All ready to go. Can run as road car and even join the BMW series. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ace Of Spades 51 Report post Posted May 27, 2014 You could do a cheap lower power turbo setup, but it would still be over 4K easily. Leave bottom End Stock. Leave Head stock bar the rockers ($700 through Dan Slater) Do not bother with other brands. Tried them all. These are a must. One back fire and you will break one. MLS Head Gasket ($400-$500) - I have one I can sell you brand new. I have to go to a much stronger one to handle 650hp. Turbo Manifold $1000 if you can get someone to build a mild steal one prob less. Turbo - Holset HX30/35 (See Crunchy Murch for one of these) Then you still need Fuel Pumps Surge Tank Wastegate Intercooler Oil Cooler Braded Lines Intercooler piping ECU & Tuning Diff to handle the power Drive Shaft Exhaust The bits I can get are, - turbo (yet to find out which one it is) - bov nd wastegate - manifold - ecu - injectors nd fpr - other little bits like lines I have diff (lsd), drive shaft and exhaust. So rockers is a must, MLS and possibly arp studs? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
