E30 Subframe bushing replacement - help

[Evo30 6]

Hi team,

Just wanted to some help here, I need to fix my subframe bushing by replacing them. I am looking at getting after market subframe bushing from powerflex etc, though I wanted to know about the tools required.

I've seen subframe removal tools for e36, e46 and x5 - would these fit e30's? Is there anywhere I can hire such a tool to do the job? I don't really want to remove my whole subframe hence why I was after the tool, I can set it on fire as an option but with the fuel tank close by its not something I wanted to risk.

Cheers peeps.

[e30ftw 394]

You can make tools easy with a long bolt and some big washers to tighten against the subframe and push the bushing out as you turn it.

You will want to burn them and the fuel tank and blow the car up if you try do it without removing the rear end. It's a nightmare.

[Evo30 6]

Yeah the easiest would be to remove the whole subframe but the problem I have is that sh*t STOP aka pitstop made me a 1 piece exhaust from my turbo to the muffler, meaning I cant split it, I would have to remove the whole exhaust system to be able to remove the subframe or start remaking the exhaust.

It's a bit of a PITA since I am battling pitstop about their bad work manship. I've never ever had issues with exhausts until I approached pitstop in Albany...

Anyway, moving past that problem, I did see on ebay tools which work for e36 and e46 and x5 - though not sure if they fit e30 so that way I can just drop the frame down a little and just replace the bushes. Kinda running low on options

[Jibs05 86]

Buy a v-band and flex-pipe and introduce a break in the exhaust. Not worried about bottoming out and hurting the turbo?

Also i think, you will have to make a tool. its not very hard nor expensive

[dubman 39]

I've never ever had issues with exhausts until I approached pitstop in Albany...

Go back and talk to them about it - a cut and a V band would be a easy fix (maybe a simple mis-communication was to blame)

[nick496 268]

Having done this recently by taking it out of the car, then paying someone to push in the bushings. I would recommend making a tool and doing it while it's still on the car if you're just doing the subframe bushings..

That said, I also got the trailing arm bushings done at the same time, which I think need to be done with the subframe off.

[Evo30 6]

Thanks for the input everyone. I've called up A1 mufflers so they will be fixing up my exhaust later on in the month.

I took the opportunity this weekend to jack up the car and inspect a few things also install my new Powerflex Diff bush.

Jacked up the car, and holy hell...
1. Subframe diff mounting point - the 2 most rear mounting point for the subframe to diff is torn, looks like I have to weld it up. Looks like when the diff rubber was worn out the diff flexed a lot breaking off the subframe tabs.
2. Drive shaft rubbing - looks like the diff was wobbling around the subframe, I can see rub marks where the drive shaft rubbed up to the subframe, not cool....
3. Trailing arm rubbers are all cracked. For extra added fun factor.

Anyway I took out the diff and inspected the damage, when I got the diff out I checked the 2 broken tabs, 1 is completely gone the other (closest to the diff rubber) is torn but still in tact with the subframe.

soooo YOLO, I changed the diff rubber this was actually quite easy. and bolted the diff up with only 3 bolts to the subframe. It seems to be ok - probably wont last long when you are cranking 400hp at the wheels.

I want to fix it and reinforce my next subframe and current trailing arms (unless someone decides to sell me the lot for cheap)...

This raises a couple of questions...

1. e36 TI Subframe - they seem to be the same as e30? Does that mean I can just buy the e36 subframe and put in my e30 trailing arms? I am not using the rear strut brace either.
2. Subframe reinforcement - anyone done one personally? I have seen photos they seem to be relatively easy to do, I am planning to reinforce my trailing arm also.

I may as well get raised Subframe rubbers by Condor speed shop, this is to correct my camber as it is too much camber. Anyone used these before? Or would you recommend solid alloy subframe mounts?

[nick496 268]

I've got a subframe with Derlin subframe mounts already in them if you're interested.

I don't believe it's raised though.

[Evo30 6]

@nick496 would you be able to take photos? Might be keen.

Anyone used raised bushings though? I can make my own spacers for diff to subframe but wondered how big the washers had to be, looking at forums they use 9mm diff raisers to match 12mm risers subframe bushes. Anyone able to confirm this?

[Evo30 6]

@jkhan05 - Am kinda worried about it, I have a flex pipe in there but from the flex pipe to the subframe they stuck a 3" straight pipe with resonator in the middle which means I am constantly bottoming out on speed bumps and the exhaust lifts the subframe I think that's what cause my problem to begin with.

The wastegate flanges have flexed also so they seem to be leaking a little bit of exhaust fumes. fun times.

[nick496 268]

Here you go, sorry for the quality, thought they would turn out better.

The aluminum bits aren't pushed into the bushings yet, so that's why they look a bit out of place

[Evo30 6]

Thanks nick496,I ended up buying an E36ti.

Currently waiting for laser cut bits to reinforce my new subframe. I'll post a pict shortly of my old one... No wonder my boot floor has dents. But you'll see what I mean.

Subframe bushes was removed at East Cost road workshop, behind the Z, Bruno was his name... $20 both bushes. I thought it was a good deal vrs time and frustration.

I couldn't get the half shafts off the nut was stuck real hard, I was going to do a whole rear rebuild but I guess that will wait.

New Parts List:

Condor Riser Bushes 12mm

Diff stud and alloy diff spacers

Superpro trailing arm bushes

Z3 e-brake set up

The rotors and brake pads looked fine. Just gave the rotors and callipers the wire brush treatment and some paint.

I dont have a rear sway bar so I wont bother installing one yet.

I got told the z3 e brake shoes and springs gives the e30 a tighter hand brake. Not sure it looks the same, might give it a try.

[Jibs05 86]

holy what the f**k. haven't seen that one before.

[Evo30 6]

Hahahha yeah the mounting tabs sheared off during on street tuning.

Was dialing in around 450hp at the wheels when the subframe started to fall apart

[Evo30 6]

Here are some brake shoes specs, I wasn't sure if I can actually use e36 non m3 as they are 7mm wider. Anyone tried e36 non m3 brake shoes in to an e30 disc brake?

Specs are:

e30 = 160mm x 25mm

e36 NON m3 = 160mm x 32mm

e36 M3 = 180mm x 32mm

z3 = 160mm x 25mm

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/handbrake#overview

reference here says to use z3 brake shoes.

[Evo30 6]

Made up a trailing arm bush tool. Worked a charm.

M10 threaded rod

3 x m10 nuts

2 x m10 penny washers

1/2" 12mm socket

36mm deep socket

Grease

Lock up 2 nuts at end of threaded rod

Cut off the thin side of the bush.

Insert 12mm socket at the locked nut end. Insert rod through trailing arm bush. Assemble the rest with 36mm deep socket, 2 washers and a m10 nut.

Make sure you have greased the rod.

Tighten the nuts up. Done.

Edited August 30, 2014 by Evo30

[Evo30 6]

Trailing arm reinforcement. A bar. There was a few choices using rectangular bars but meh this will do fine.

Just making templates so I can produce multiple of these. Pretty easy stuff. You can buy similar items online if you wanted. Not sure of bar thickness, material etc also shipping cost more than the parts itself.

Also gonna put a camber and toe reinforcement but I'll do that later using off cuts. I'll put another update up once I've cut them and fitted.

[Evo30 6]

A few people msg'd and asked how to remove subframe easily.

There is no easy way. I removed diff first due to the subframe was stuffed. The process is the same with a diff.

The bushes did bind though once I was ready to drop subframe. If this happens to you then you need these tools and it will be done in 5 minutes.

1. 20mm lug bolt - bunnings mitre10 or bolt shop has these. They look like giant self tapping bolts.

2. Metal rod more than 10mm thick. Under 15mm thickness. Longer than 6".

3. A big freaking heavy hammer.

From underneath bolt in your lug bolt. Tighten till it won't move. Go inside car slide in rod through subframe bush till it rests on bolt. Hammer time.

Be sure to have your subframe supported. Or it will drop one side and it will be out of alignment making the other side harder to remove. Here's an example

[Evo30 6]

Just a small update. Will post up more once I finished some laser cuts and welds. For now. Some goodies arrived.

[2052NV 43]

Mint! i just did the trailing arm bushes on mine recently too, i couldnt be bothered with assembling a puller and just used a gas torch >

They made a huge differance too!

Edited September 3, 2014 by ROBHASAE30

[Evo30 6]

Mint! i just did the trailing arm bushes on mine recently too, i couldnt be bothered with assembling a puller and just used a gas torch >

They made a huge differance too!

Sweet! Good to hear buddy!

Yeah cant wait to finish mine, in the next week it should be done. The puller i made cost me $5 I dont own a gas torch. Wanna swap? my puller for your torch muhuahhahahaha