Allanw 1071 Report post Posted October 26, 2014 Torque converter is getting pretty noisey too, trying to organise the repairs on this thing it is a goddam mission, still fantastic cars to drive none the less =) Hmmm... sounds like you need a manual conversion too Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rusteee 52 Report post Posted October 26, 2014 Dreams are free, would have had it done instead of the auto/torque converter replacment, but it was in pretty hot demand I think there were already 3 people waiting on it, and I couldn't wait that long. v8 manual would be awsome!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rusteee 52 Report post Posted October 31, 2014 Just an update. Been humming and haaaring on what to do with this. They are putting it down to most likely being valve stem seals? They did suggest wrong grade oil and (unlikely) PCV valve, but definetly not the oil seperator. Has anyone had there valve seals replaced? Seems odd that it was an over night thing. Around $3500 for the job, does that sound reasonable? I realise there is a lot of work to be done with that. I suppose if it had that done, it would pay to do all the other PCV, seperator etc while engines apart. Might suggest a cylinder leak down test, had one done a couple of months ago for peace of mind, but who knows. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahmedsinc 414 Report post Posted October 31, 2014 Dude, you'd pick up a good running M62 for less than half the rebuild cost!!! Who have you been using for the work thus far? Might be worth taking it to Glenn or another reputable indy for another opinion? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rusteee 52 Report post Posted October 31, 2014 Yea but then I'd most likely run into the same hassle? This one was really healthy, full service history extremely well looked after had everything done in time like radiator valley pan gasket, hoses, oil changes etc etc, so it cant be through lack of service, its done 170,000kms but i didn't think that was overly high given the beast you have had done well over 200 and still going strong (not that thats the same thing lol). Really want something I know is not going to (or at least prevent as much as possible) sh*t itself all the time. It still runs perfectly well, its just that initial 1-2 second smoke every now and then that pisses me off, and the fact it went from not smoking to smoking in no time. I'm happy with the people who are working on it, very reputable and have done a lot of work on all my cars. Would have had Ray do it but hard to get the car there. Just out of interest, what sort of price can you pick up an M62 for? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahmedsinc 414 Report post Posted October 31, 2014 True enough, unless you knew the seller and engine history it's always gonna be a bit of a punt eh. From what I've seen a bare M62 seems to go for under 2k, as you've got all the necessary bits it shouldn't be too pricey. Then again, if you don't have the tools or suitable space to do the swap yourself I'd guess any cost savings would be eaten up by labour charges. Fair play on sticking with your mechs, just wondered if a second opinion from a specialist might help narrow things down a bit Sounds like the best thing to do now is another leakdown test. Bummer that it's started happening at reasonably low milage too! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aja540i 1906 Report post Posted October 31, 2014 3.5 k sounds reasonable, i spent 7 on mine including timing chain, tensioners, etc, but it had done 270km and i was planning on having the car for a long time. There are other things that it would make sense to do at the same time, timing chain guides etc, but it all adds up! Any second hand motor you get will eventually have the same issues, so might not be cheaper in the long run. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rusteee 52 Report post Posted October 31, 2014 (edited) Cheers for the replies. Yea, my only deciding factor of writing the car off was the fact I've only owned it since March this year, and spent 7.8k on things just to keep the car running, nothing to make it that little bit more awsome like suspension or brakes hahaha. Incl gearbox, torque convertor, belts, pulleys, hoses, thermostat, radiator, bushes, battery, water pump, 02 sensors, gaskets etc etc as you get with owning a 540. Even though I love the car to bits, I was just not too sure whether its worth throwing any more at it. If it was done, at least then I know what I've got. Will ask them for a leak down test, then go from there. Really want get torque convertor sorted first though.... Would love to have the engine out and just work away on it slowly while the cars not needed. Edited October 31, 2014 by rusteee Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahmedsinc 414 Report post Posted October 31, 2014 Valve stems are easy enough to do if the engine's out and the heads are off. Since you've already sunk a great big pile of monies into it then as long as the car is sound it's worth sorting the engine out.The downside with a replacement engine / car is it will always be an unknown quantity. If you're able to do chain guides, seals etc yourself without time constraints it'll only owe you the parts costs (and some shiny new tools! ) Long term I'd go for the manual swap, rebuilt / used autos and TQs will only suffer the same fate as your current trans. Big financial commitment but so long as you're not bankrupting yourself in the process it'll so be worth it! A really quick look on pelican parts suggests new stem seals, chain guides, HG & bolts etc seems to come to under $1k US excl shipping. You've already come this far with sorting it out mate, you might as well finish it P.S - did you get my PM regarding the other key? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eagle 1661 Report post Posted November 1, 2014 You could buy another early 540i for 3.5k. Id never buy vanos M62 540i again, its the problem child . A pre facelift M62 with facelift kit etc on it would be the ideal. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rusteee 52 Report post Posted November 1, 2014 Yea sorry been meaning to get back to you about that. Can't find it, must have got lost in the transition from waikato to auckland or still packed away in a box that has not been opened Yea these engines do have some absolutely stupid flaws, but still fantastic for what they are. Wouldn't bother going any older unless buying an E34 as a toy, which is always an option =) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahmedsinc 414 Report post Posted November 1, 2014 No dramas dude, was only asking cos I'm lazy PFL might be the go, wouldn't take that much work to swap all the goodies over..... could make a bit of coin from the leftover spares / complete car too. Just sayin' Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BreakMyWindow 1874 Report post Posted November 1, 2014 To prove it's the stem seals get the engine in a high vacuum situation i.e down a hill in 2nd gear decelerating from 5k rpm for as long as possible. When you re apply throttle you should get a puff of smoke as the vacuum effect will suck oil past the stem seals if leaking. What grade oil is it running? From memory you had a lazy o2 sensor when i scanned it. Rich running over time may mean carbon buildup is effecting the 'seal' in the chambers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rusteee 52 Report post Posted November 1, 2014 (edited) Yea I'm not convinced 100% that it is stem seals, neither were they i don't think, it is just a process of elimination and they said its very common. Yea I've been trying that, once the car is running it doesn't smoke at all, whether sitting at lights, then floor it, or sitting in traffic. I cant get a scenario to say 'yes it will definetly smoke when I do this'. It seems to be, once sitting for an hour or so after taking for a good drive, then on start it will have a small puff of smoke, but not every time. It can go a few days with nothing, then all of a sudden puff a bit out? Drive me nuts. Running 5w30 Total in it through the last 2 changes, thats pretty standard for these engines isn't it? Edit: Oh and yea cheers for that scan, I bought a full set of O2 sensors and put them in not long after that to eliminate any hassles. Edited November 1, 2014 by rusteee Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites