wrs 120 Report post Posted December 5, 2015 (edited) Eh, my Vanos has started to rattle. This began a couple fo weeks ago and has been getting slowly worse. The seal and rattle kit arrived during the week from Beisan Systems so it's going in on Monday to get fixed. Hopefully the timing chains and guides are ok... I was going to do this during the install but thought I might get away with it. Lesson - old vanos, don't use it without replacing the seals and doing the rattle fix first!!! Edited December 6, 2015 by wrs Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wrs 120 Report post Posted January 24, 2016 Time for an update: I took my car in to get the vanos looked at and recon'd. The guy at the shop decided to take a shortcut and didn't fit the cam timing blocks prior to taking off the vanos - just marked them with a pen. Needless to say it didn't go too good once put back together - wouldn't idle and conked out a lot. There was a very bad noise as the vanos came in at about 2500 RPM - a very loud vibration coming from the top of the engine. This was about 1 week before Christmas and they said they didn't have time to look at it prior to Christmas. Obviously since it was their stuff-up I'd expected them to drop everything to fix the problem but no... Anyway I kinda had to accept it in the end but expected some form of compensation at the end of the job which was forthcoming... So, the car was off the road over Christmas. I decided it was also a good time to look at the clutch problems I've been having with the D1 racing kit as gear changes were like a game of roulete. In other threads I've posted about problems with the clutch engaging only 5mm off the floor and a lot of issues with grinding the gears due to the clutch not releasing properly. I got KBM involved in sorting out a solution and ended up replacing the clutch disk, pressure plate and release bearing with a standard M3 gear. I kept the D1 racing kit flywheel as it seems to be fine. The new clutch bit arrived from KBM during the week of the 11th Jan and the car was fixed on the 18th. Now my new clutch starts to engage with the pedal 25mm off the floor and never has any problems with gears crunching. It's a whole new car to drive and I can change gears freely with confidence and without gritting my teeth every time I want to make a gear change. I can relax again and just enjoy driving. Once the cams were re-timing properly the engine worked again fine too. There seems to been no valve contact so the guys at the shop got lucky and didn't have to supply new valves... Now I can concentrate on other tidy-ups on the car. I have some DS2's coming and looking at Bridgestone Adrenaline RE003 tyres 225/45/17 on the front and 245/40/17 on the back - thoughts... I'm currently running Toyo Nanoengery 3's, 205/60/15 - I let the guy at the tyre shop stupidly talk me into trying them. They're barely ok - fairly quiet. However they are very unpredictable and twitchy - never behaving the same way every time on the same corner. Have been too chicken to see what they're like in a light drift...Won't ever be buying these again! I guess my only concern with the Bridgestone's is whether I'm good enough to drive on them. I'm concerned the additional grip and then the let-go characteristic might be more than I can handle. Usually as the ultimate grip on a tire gets better, the let-go characteristic is far less forgiving and you have to be that much quicker at responding to keep it under control. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
5amchris 45 Report post Posted January 24, 2016 seems they got lucky! Good update! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jibs05 86 Report post Posted March 10, 2016 Needs more pics!! 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wrs 120 Report post Posted March 30, 2016 Ok, will post some additional pics soon. Update: Got sick of the pod filter noise. I'd tried to muffle it by adding sound proofing sheet (used on my audio projects) inside the air box. It helped a bit but was still way noisy and I was getting too many 'dork' looks when taking off... So, I tried the standard 325 airbox back in the car. It's way quieter and doesn't seem to be any slower on a hill-climb. I've been using a standard section of hill to check speeds from point A to point B accelerating in 3rd from a specific speed at point A and seeing what speed I get at point B. Without a dyno it seems a reasonable way to check for significant differences. I used to go from 65km/h to 100km/h between the 2 points wih the pod filter. With the standard fliter box I go from 65km/h to 100km/h - exactly the same. I repeated the test 3 times with less than ±2km/h difference each time. Admittedly I'm only doing about 5500RPM at 100km/h so not seeing the full effect at the very top end - may show up on the dyno. I seldom drive above 5k anyway so not a major issue. I'll leave the standard filter box in for a while and decide if I want to keep it before fitting the new injectors and getting a re-tune. Since the Link was originally tuned I've fitted a different exhaust, fixed up the vanos, and have now changed the air intake. All of these items will have had some effect on the orginal tune. I'll have to make a decision whether to stay with the standard filter box (or change to a M3 filter box - if it's better) before getting it re-tuned. I'll swap the injectors over just before the re-tune too (green top to pink top). Does anyone know if the M3 Filter Box flows better than a standard 325 filter box? RealOEM shows very minor differences between the two only affecting some parts and both use the same filter element so I suspect there's not much difference. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wrs 120 Report post Posted March 30, 2016 Forgot to add: The DS2's have arrived. Doing a bit of contract work at present to pay for new rubber and the dyno re-tune. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jibs05 86 Report post Posted March 30, 2016 BUT DORT IS LIFE Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahmedsinc 414 Report post Posted March 30, 2016 +/- 2km/hr would probably be within the speedos margin of error. Have seen a number of write-ups affirming that aftermarket pod type intakes add induction noise and not much else. Washable panel l]filters do flow more air but it comes at the expense of filtration - the gain seem to be 1-3hp across the full range so not enough to be noticed by the trusty butt-dyno. +1 on more photos! 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wrs 120 Report post Posted March 30, 2016 I'll get the DS2's and new rubber on it first then take it out for a photo shoot. The paint is a bit rough in a couple of spots and quite a few chips on the front. The next major spend will be on a repaint... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wrs 120 Report post Posted March 30, 2016 It was also interesting that with the pod filter gone it didn't feel as quick but appears to still be the same as it was with the pod. The noise must help trick your senses into thinking it's faster... It will be interesting to see how it goes on the second dyno tune... 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahmedsinc 414 Report post Posted March 30, 2016 Have been meaning to ask - what was the all up cost for the engine swap (including headers, link, dyne tuning etc)? REALLY want a set of those Schricks for my M54 but doubt I can justify the $ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wrs 120 Report post Posted March 30, 2016 It ended up being a lot. Not sure I want to say just how much because it's a little embarrasing - got a bit out of control. It would have been a lot less if I'd done all the work but would also have taken much longer to do. Likely would have been cheaper just to buy a 2nd hand M3 engine and get it cert'd... Probably could have gone down the M54 path for the same $$... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wrs 120 Report post Posted April 8, 2016 (edited) I haven't had the car re-tuned yet as I'm still mucking around with a few bits and pieces. I'm going to add another set of short AdrenalineR resonators where the cats used to be. They will custom make a couple of 250mm ones to fit the space. There's still a bit too much rasp - especially if the back seat are down when there's a bike in the boot... I've also been wondering about the Vanos map in the Link ECU. At present it's set to turn the cam advance on at 2500rpm and off at 4500rpm - these appear to be the default settings. These settings are also for the M50B25tu which has standard cams. I've been searching with no luck for the Vanos map settings for the M3 S50 US spec cams as this is what I have fitted. I'm not sure if the Graham tried adjusting the cam on/off points but they're currently still stock so maybe not. If it's possible to get an extended torque band by adjusting this timing it would be good to know prior to going in for a re-tune. Does anyone here know what the cam switch on/off rpm should be for the S50 US spec cams or a place with the info? Edited April 13, 2016 by wrs 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jibs05 86 Report post Posted April 14, 2016 I was promised pictures. My mind can only imagine so much 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wrs 120 Report post Posted April 14, 2016 I'll get the DS2's and new rubber on it first then take it out for a photo shoot. The paint is a bit rough in a couple of spots and quite a few chips on the front. The next major spend will be on a repaint... Soon... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wrs 120 Report post Posted April 21, 2016 I got the new rubber for the DS2's today and got everything fitted up. Looks way different and will take a while to get used to... Even without the tyres being run in yet they are light-years ahead of the old ones in grip. Once the shiney surface is worn through I'm expecting a pretty big difference. Here's some photo's of the car - it's a bit rough due to a shoddy paint job done about 5 years ago. It looked good for about 3 years but then the paint finish started going down hill. There's a lot of stone chipping on the front of the car too. There's also a supermarket ding in the passenger door. Now I need to save up for a repaint + I'm considering lowering it about 20mm all round. When it's repainted I'mm be putting on new trim all round + replacing the window rubbers. 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahmedsinc 414 Report post Posted April 22, 2016 Nice, Sunflowers have always been one of my favourite E36 wheels. Ditch the fake ///M badge from the grill though, kinda makes it look a bit tacky IMO. Whats the status of your suspension? Since theres all the extra horsepowers it might be time for a nice set of Konis and maybe some matched EIbachs / H&Rs? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wrs 120 Report post Posted April 22, 2016 (edited) Yep, the badge is coming off - was a cheap TM one and it's starting to corrode after only a couple of months... Suspension is still standard. Looking at a Bilstein B14 PSS Coil-Over Suspension kit and replacing all the front and rear bushes at the same time. Will allow adjustment of the ride height and stiffness and appears to be one of the best kits you can get (plus I can install it myself). The kit is available for about $1k USD. Not sure where to get the bushes at a decent price or whether to stay with the stock rubber type or go to something stiffer. On my wish list: 3.07 Diff LSD Pack for above M3 Mirrors Coil-Over Suspension (B12 Kit installed instead) Repaired OBC (bad display) Already Purchased and on the way: M3 Door Trim (installed) M3 Door Sills (installed) Already Have and not yet fitted: M3 Side Skirts and Sills Black Carpet (currently mid-grey) (installed) 3.07 Diff (Thanks Wyzeup) (installed) (replaced with 3.46) Edited July 3, 2019 by wrs Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WYZEUP 283 Report post Posted April 22, 2016 Got a very nice setup going on there! Love the look of the sunflowers, so understated. I've got a 3.07 diff for cheap if your looking for one $150. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wrs 120 Report post Posted April 22, 2016 Sweet, I'll grab it at that price, thanks!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahmedsinc 414 Report post Posted April 24, 2016 Yep, the badge is coming off - was a cheap TM one and it's starting to corrode after only a couple of months... Suspension is still standard. Looking at a Bilstein B14 PSS Coil-Over Suspension kit and replacing all the front and rear bushes at the same time. Will allow adjustment of the ride height and stiffness and appears to be one of the best kits you can get (plus I can install it myself). The kit is available for about $1k USD. Not sure where to get the bushes at a decent price or whether to stay with the stock rubber type or go to something stiffer. On my wish list: 3.07 Diff LSD Pack for above M3 Mirrors Coil-Over Suspension Repaired OBC (bad display) Already Purchased and on the way: M3 Door Trim M3 Door Sills 3.07 Diff (Thanks Wyzeup) Already Have and not yet fitted: M3 Side Skirts and Sills Black Carpet (currently mid-grey) Unless you plan on tracking the car at various venues I really don't see the point with coilovers. Becomes a very expensive option once cert costs are factored in, don't forget to add shipping + GST + import duties to the bill - adds up real fast. Get in touch with George Stocks & Co here in Auckland - they'll sort you out with Konis and some nice springs for cheaper than you'd think Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wrs 120 Report post Posted April 29, 2016 Update: Fake M badge removed - cheap TM purchase and was starting to corrode anyway - gone for good... 3.07 diff arrived today (thanks for the good deal WYZEUP!!!) - looking forward to 1 gear change to 100km. Will install the diff tomorrow and go for a nice drive to see what the difference is - expecting good things. I'm still keen on the coil-overs purely because of the adjustability to set the ride height just where I want it. It seems pretty difficult to get exact ride-height figures from suppliers as they don't want to commit to guaranteeing you'll get what you pay for. I'm happy to pay a price premium to get the adjustability. Possibly the suppliers here in Napier really aren't as good as other areas too... I also wouldn't mind race-car handling on the road for the extremely rare occasion I might use it. It's always nice to take that low-speed corner at a decent speed from time to time (when you feel like giving it a squirt). However, thanks for the contact info - will follow-up next week to see what they can offer. Yep, shipping and GST kill imports - I knew this was going to hurt when I bought the M3 Shrick cams... $1k suspension in USD would end up about $2100 inc GST landed in NZ. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Olaf 3340 Report post Posted April 29, 2016 (edited) I estimate NZD$1700 incl, using the 'what's my duty' tool, and USD 200 as a shipping estimate (MyUS.com) included. You should get free shipping to FL from any half-decent supplier in the US when spending $1k. my $0.02 worth. EDIT: FCP Euro quote USD150 for freight on this kit, though the purchase price is higher. Still, you can get $75 off with their 'over $999' promo code... $1225 incl freight yep, you're at $1,900 incl. Edited April 29, 2016 by Olaf Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wrs 120 Report post Posted May 7, 2016 (edited) Installed the 3.07 diff today - very happy with the drop in RPM and now only 1 gear change to 100km/h - sweet. The old diff was actually a 3.73 so now 5th gear is like 6th used to be. Only doing 2200RPM in 6th at 100km/h now. It's also made 1st gear usedful at last instead of just reving for nothing... Gear Ratio Initial Speed Revs RPM Drop Top Speed RPM 1 4.23 0.00 0 59.4 6600 2 2.51 59.40 4400 2200 100.1 6600 3 1.67 100.10 4950 1650 150.4 6600 4 1.23 150.45 5450 1150 204.3 6600 5 1.00 204.26 6000 600 251.2 6600 6 0.83 251.25 6150 450 RPM @ 100km in 6th 2180.3372 Edited May 7, 2016 by wrs 3 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wrs 120 Report post Posted February 6, 2019 (edited) Time for a 3+ year update (@ 50,000km)... The car has just ticked up 375,000km. Everything was going perfectly up until a couple of months ago when the remaining coolant hoses I didn't replace during the upgrade decided to let go (check coolant level is an excellent feature). After replacing these everything was good again until Monday this week. The Fenix RACE1180 radiator I installed during the upgrade has now let go where the core tubes meet the flat area. It's happening in several places at once (check coolant level saves the day again). Checked the radiator isn't accidentally earthed + voltage from coolant and radiator body to the engine earth and got 48mV cold and 57mV hot so it looks like it's not electrolysis. The cooling system is also spotless with no gunk or black slime on the aluminum internals. The ends of the core tubes you can see also look good. I'm using distilled water and Redline Water Wetter only. I'm now trying to see if Fenix will do a deal on a replacement but not counting on it - 3 years & 50k's, pretty unlikely they'll do anything. Thinking about Mishimoto as a replacement - waiting on feedback from suppliers over the next few days to see if it's affordable. Other than the cooling issues due to a failed radiator and old coolant pipes everything else has been perfect. The engine still sounds as smooth as the day it was put in and doesn't appear to have lost any performance yet. The clutch has settled down (since dumping the D1 Racing clutch - now using a standard OEM M3 clutch) and works very nicely. Have added M3 mirrors. Also have a second hand B12 kit to install but will get the shocks rebuilt first. The paint is now completely buggered. About 25% of the clear coat has totally missing and even the colour is coming off in a few places. There's no rust popping through yet though so I still have a bit of time up my sleeve. I'm saving to get it repainted but it's not going to be cheap and I won't be ready for another few months. During the repaint I want to get paint in behind the front and rear glass trim. Does anyone know if the trim can be reinstalled with the glass in place. I'd expect the old plastic trim to crack and/or break if removed but can new trim be installed with the glass in-place? One painter I visited thought the trim has the be installed with the glass an can't be installed afterwards. Edited February 6, 2019 by wrs Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
