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wrs last won the day on December 28 2020

wrs had the most liked content!

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About wrs

  • Rank
    2nd Gear
  • Birthday 04/07/1968

Previous Fields

  • Name
  • Location
  • Car
    92 E36 Coupe 3L Stroker
  • Mods List
    3L Stroker, M3 Shrick Cams, Link ECU, Full M3 Exhaust, MAF Delete, Fan Delete, 6-Speed Manual Conversion

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  • Interests
    Cars (Duh), High-End Audio

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2551 profile views
  1. Mine failed a warrant a few years ago because there was a new guy at VTNZ who was a bit anal about very minor rubbing on both sides despite having passed for years prior. I made up and fitted 3mm thick plastic clip-on washers to each side by releasing the boot and pulling it back from the rack then clipping the spacer on over the main drive rod between the rack and knuckle. This limits the amount of turn by about 10mm so there is no rubbing. Added a bit of underseal over the rub marks and never had a problem since, even with Mr anal doing the inspections. I you can buy premade ones like below but I can't remember where from - thought it was VAC or Achilles but they're not shown on their website (they only have solid ones). Obviously the guys below could be a source if you can't make your own.
  2. Ah bugger, wish I had the cash to buy as I really need an interior like this to complete my conversion - just purchased a house though with a 74 interior so I'll be poor forever trying to make it live-able.
  3. Probably not. The aerial will likely either read open or a short - don't know anything about GPS aerials. A quick Google search suggests 50 ohms is a pretty common impedance. Since a 50 ohm resistor is a few cents it's worth a try buying one and connecting to the aerial input.
  4. wrs

    M54b30 Rebuild

    I have a M54B30 I'm taking the rotating assembly from. I'm not sure what the state of the block and head is but you'd be welcome to them if you're prepared to take the gamble on freight and them being no good. If they're of some use I'd be open to some beers...
  5. If you can find out what the aerial impedance is supposed to be you may be able to connect a resistor across the input on the Nav System. The error might be as simple as is the correct impedance present at the antenna input - might get lucky, If it work you can cut the cable close to the plug and permanently connect the resistor to the wire end + heatshrink etc... If you can't find out what the impedance is you could try common types like 50/75/100 ohms...
  6. Has none + there's a wait-list.
  7. As per title, looking for a M54B30 engine in good condition - long engine ok.
  8. Went with Koni adjustable inserts into standard early model front mounts (with the M3 style swaybar connection) and OE Koni adjustable replacements for the rear from Stocks with Eibach springs all round from a Bilstein B12 kit. It lowered the car to near stock M3 stance within a few mm. I also changed to M3 swaybars and also M3 top hats to increase castor and camber. Massive difference in performance and didn't require a cert for the suspension change because it's all OE equivalent. Thanks to 3Pedals for the advice during the research phase...
  9. Nope, and yes, he appears to be someone who wanted to charge a lot for nothing. I went with Autocerts but he came to Napier. Was $750 all up including travel - cheaper than me going there, especially when I had an initial fail which I managed to resolve in 45 minutes while he was still in town...
  10. Keep in mind anything adjustable or not provable as OE equivalent will likely require certification so factor in an additional $750+ If doing a manual conversion, most kits come with with a brake pedal / clutch pedal combo. The minute you touch the brake pedal you now need certification (if detected by the person doing a warrant) - additional cost. Manual conversion may also require driveshaft hoops depending on the certifier. Because of where I live and the rather limited certification options I was forced to do 2 hoops...
  11. wrs

    KwS's E36 318ti

    Had this issue many years ago. It would happen any time I put the car through a carwash. The issue is due the the join between the air conditioning area and the enclosure for the ECU electronics not having a water baffle. If you get extreme rain or high water ingress into the air conditioner fan area it can't drain away fast enough when the drain tube is even slightly blocked. The water builds up in the air conditioning area and overflows into the ECU enclosure, especially if it's raining really hard and you do hard RH turns. I found this not long after purchasing an E36 - water killed my ECU. Luckily the local BMW (Hastings) let me pilfer parts from other broken ECU's to get mine going. I added a small aluminum baffle between the air conditioning area and ECU enclosure, bogged in with urethane sealant which stopped the water flowing through. Since then I've had no further problems in 18 years. It also means if the air conditioner area drain ever blocks up I'm unlikely to get a flooded ECU...
  12. Given I got similar parts for my car a couple of years ago I suspect these parts will easily be available from BMW. I got the coupe door seals and top window ledge moldings for a 1992 E36 - they had to manufacture them and it took 3 months but I still got the factory original parts. Yours are for a much newer car and should be easy to get by comparison. Given the age of my car and the fact they had to do a specific manufacturing run to make the parts + ship to NZ the cost was actually pretty darn reasonable.
  13. Done, gone-burgers a week or so ago. The bits are still sitting on the drive next to where I park my car. Rubbish day tomorrow so I night pick them up and put them in the bin to go out... Actually, I hope you don't mean the car ?? 😉
  14. I drove my donor diff to Auckland from Napier for Kayne to do my conversion. It's awesome and I've never looked back. You want a good diff, take to Kayne... Shipping would have been way cheaper but it was a good drive 🙂
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