E36 M3 - 1994. Long term preventative maintenance spend

[atlantiskiwi 73]

Budget - 5-8k

I have had my e36 M3 for over 2 years now and still thoroughly enjoy it.

For that reason I am ready to spend some reasonable coin bring the chassis and drivetrain back to as new condition as possible.

I my plan has always been to do it myself but two years on and I still haven't found the time.

SO, can you help me with rough costs for doing the following things and also suggest any other ideas.

Vanos - not rattling but what am I missing out on if it's poked.

Bushes

Ball joints

Shocks? Dampener adjustable?

Springs - H&R? Want a little lower buy not scraping.

Tensioner - EVO - already purchased. Install?

Wheel spacers - 25mm?

Steering rack - Z3 already purchased.

Diff mounting, suspension reinforcing, engine mount.

What else?

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Edited September 27, 2015 by atlantiskiwi

[KwS 2378]

The tensioner is always a good idea on the 3.0, so would definitely install that. You already have the Z3 rack so might as well chuck that in too.

I would also reinforce the boot floor and front cross member mounting points as they are prone to failure, and while under there i would do all the susp bushes and ball joints as normal maintenance.

Vanos is a hard one, its a decent size job and would be very labor intensive if you didnt do it yourself. If you cant notice any signs or rattling, you could still be down on power.... or it could be in good shape. Was it your one that was advertised as having a new vanos unit by the previous owner?

[atlantiskiwi 73]

Yes, full replacement. You have a good memory! It was over 2 years ago I brought it.

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[atlantiskiwi 73]

Boot floor reinforcement? Steel bar or plates?

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[KwS 2378]

Yes, full replacement. You have a good memory! It was over 2 years ago I brought it.

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In which case its probably in good condition still. wouldnt expect issues from a new unit for many years.

Boot floor reinforcement? Steel bar or plates?

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Some good reinforcement kits here, http://www.turnermotorsport.com/BMW-E36/c-87-bmw-reinforcement-kits.aspx

[5amchris 45]

O wow, I remember test driving and getting a pre purchase on this back a few years ago before I bought my m3 Evo. It drove awesome, but Jeff Gray told me to stay away because of the crazy amounts of codes it was throwing with the vanos.

It drove very smooth and pulled like crazy for the 3L but the guys told me it wasn't worth the risk. So I'm just hoping/guessing it was fixed up before you bought it!

Other than that, have you done anything with the seats? If I remember correctly, they were showing some wear!

The guy i was looking to buy off had it for a few years and had been letting his 18 year old son drive it around and it had some small front damage and he ended up getting the full front re-sprayed.

Anyways sounds look love how people are willing to put money into these older cars to keep them fresh!

[atlantiskiwi 73]

Haha, love hearing the history. No vanos codes at all.

Are you sure it's the same one? The last owner had it for 6 years (small kids) and the guy before that 10 or 12 years, I have had it over 2 years. Vanos was done by original owner. Seat are original and in mint condition but have had one bolster cleaned up. Where did you view it?

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[thorburn 120]

M3s come with the reinforcement plates from factory

[KwS 2378]

As mentioned in the turner link i posted, only guaranteed from 96 onwards, anything older may not. have seen a couple of posts on other forums with damage done.

[atlantiskiwi 73]

So therefore I'll need the additional reinforcement also. Mine being a 94. The complete m3 package doesn't have as much as the full e36 kit.

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[KwS 2378]

Reinforcements would be fairly down on the list in terms of priority, unless there is already signs of cracking or tearing (or youre going to throw all mechanical sympathy out the window and thrash the pants off it). Bushes, joints and suspension would be my priority.

[Michael. 2312]

I think given the nature of the suspension having to come off you're better to also remove the rear subframe to do the reinforcement plates. It's a really bad issue you don't want to try avoid.

I thought my E36 was okay until I investigated and it was really bad.

The rear trailing arm mounting pockets are a new area to keep you eye on too, they like to get cracks around the welds. A few companies do these weld in plates. I did mine due to a two cracks starting on either side.

[M3AN 4016]

My opinions based on 3.2 experience and general awareness:

Budget - 5-8k

Solid budget, you should get a set of good tyres out of the change from 8k!

Vanos - not rattling but what am I missing out on if it's poked.

Would be good to know if it was a new unit from BMW (i.e. still has the inherant problems) or a refurb (which will probably have better seals). Either way, since it's only two years old I'd leave it for the time being. Spend $100 to get the car on a dyno and see what the output looks like. It's difficult to find somebody to do the VANOS and provide a written warranty but a single VANOS overhaul and valve adjustment at the same time would be 6-8 hours work + parts.

Bushes

Yes, check them all and replace them with OEM rubber with (IMHO) the exception of the RTAB's which I'd recommend poly for (I use Super Pro and they're perfect, no additional NVH). FCAB's can be pressed out, you do not need to replace the arms if they're straight. You can spend crazy money on replacing all bushes and some do last for a long, long time so I'd suggest only the ones you need.

Ball joints

As per bushings.

Shocks? Dampener adjustable?

Springs - H&R? Want a little lower buy not scraping.

Do you need adjustible dampers? If not (or you don't know) then you shouldn't get them because you're unlikely to get a return on investment. I use non adjustable Bilstein's with Eibach springs and think they're wonderful. Others recommend Koni's but I'm not a fan. Figure ~$2,000 for all four corners including springs?

Tensioner - EVO - already purchased. Install?

Yes, it's easy to swap them over but if you have air-con access is limited and you'll need a medium depth deep socket. Can lend you one if required. Be careful not to strip threads in the aluminium timing chain case! 5 minute job with the correct tool.

Wheel spacers - 25mm?

Why?

Steering rack - Z3 already purchased.

Get it in ASAP, you'll love it. Get new p/s hoses and a new reservoir installed at the same time, cut the return(?) line from the rack and use a worm-drive clamp with the new hose. Hose and clamps cost me about $30 from a hydraulics place, reservoir was about $50, factor in a couple of hours to install it all with a lift. Replace tie-rods at the same time.

Diff mounting, suspension reinforcing, engine mount.

Engine mounts - I use Vibra Technics but they can be expensive, OEM is fine. Only replace if they're shot.

Suspension reinforcements, including RTAB pockets, is a must if you're doing anything other than OEM suspension and bushes but even then, I'd do them anyway. So RTAB, rear sway bar, rear shock towers and for yours the front shock towers too.

What else?

• X-Brace if you don't have one (~$150)
• Calliper rebuild kit with new seals, perhaps new stainless pistons if yours are in poor shape ($20 x 4)
• Braided clutch hose (GBP60 or so - get a UK one NOT a USA one)
• Braided brake lines (US$120 or so) - totally optional
• Exterior window seals and weather stripping (Maybe $100 - $150 all up from BMW)
• Water pump + thermostat + pulleys + tensioners + belts (about US$300 all up from Schmiedmann)
• Cabin micro filter ($40?)

There will be more... Laundry list in here: http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/47049-m3an-e36-m3-plog-project-log/

Happy to elaborate if required.

Edit: talk to SJ (EUROHO) about the stuff you don't want to do yourself or one of our sponsors here of course!

Edited September 30, 2015 by M3AN

[KwS 2378]

Yes, it's easy to swap them over but if you have air-con access is limited and you'll need a medium depth deep socket. Can lend you one if required. Be careful not to strip threads in the aluminium timing chain case! 5 minute job with the correct tool.

Just a note. On my 3.0 with AC i used a spanner to change my tensioner. was easy with only a couple of small things removed to make space (fan shroud wing iirc). Details are in my old project thread.

Edited September 30, 2015 by KwS

[M3AN 4016]

Just a note. On my 3.0 with AC i used a spanner to change my tensioner. was easy with only a couple of small things removed to make space (fan shroud wing iirc). Details are in my old project thread.

Agreed and totally possible. You just have to be extra careful to get it square and it's a big spanner, a socket will be less expensive if 1) you already have a 3/8" wrench and 2) you don't have a 32/6mm (?) spanner.

[KwS 2378]

i threaded the tensioner in by hand first, be trying pretty hard to cross thread it that way. I do understand yours had issues, someone before you probably made a mess of it at some point.