wrs 118 Report post Posted December 26, 2005 1992 325i E36. I have a shudder in the drivetrain at 25k and a vibration at 50 and 100. It does the shudder it both forward and reverse but can't do 50k in reverse to check for the vibration... It does it in 1st or 2nd gear. The shudder gets worse with more torque. The shudder at 25k feels a bit like axel-tramp. The vibration is like a wheel out of balance. I'm picking a half-shaft as the gearbox is reconditioned (Nissan slushy) and the driveshaft has had the universals replaced. I've had the wheels checked for running true, balance and alignment. I scored a whole 325i back end off Trademe but the half-shafts are seized in in both my car and the replacement one. The local John Bates guy says it's a common problem and you usually stuff the wheel bearings pressing the shafts out. I'm going to change the diff as well as it's got quite a loud whine. Before going to the trouble of replacing the shafts, I thought I'd check to see if anyone has had a similar problem and if they know what it is... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Carl 3 Report post Posted December 26, 2005 I had the same prob, shudder at 25k and 50k as you described, and under heavy load it would also make an audible knocking...4 weeks later my diff cog sheared in half and seized up in the middle of a main road. Sounds like you're on to it, driveshaft/guibo, diff, axles and rear bearings/cv's can all be a factor. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wrs 118 Report post Posted December 26, 2005 Yikes, mines been like this for 6 months!! I've had it to every suspension / drivetrain specialist in HB and to the local BMW agent. Nobody can say what it is. All they can offer is replacing bits until its ok, - sounds damn expensive to me... Thanks, sounds like I best change it sooner rather than later. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ducatiss 1 Report post Posted January 4, 2006 I'd look at the driveshaft first and its associated parts (non of which are too expensive) Unlikely to be the differential as these tend to last unless of course they have been abused Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ducatiss 1 Report post Posted January 4, 2006 Re my last post, perhaps the drive shaft has been replaced incorrectly, or perhaps it has become unbalanced - get it taken off and balanced. I have a slight shudder in mine when taking off in 1st - been like that for ages. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wrs 118 Report post Posted January 20, 2006 Got the local BMW dealer to take out the driveshaft and get it checked. The guy's who replaced the universals recently got it pretty wrong. The first universal was put back off-center and not-straight. It was also quite out of ballance. Now the vibration is gone there is only the shudder left. The vibration used to dominate the shudder above 25km's but now it's gone it's possible to feel and hear the shudder at most speeds with 25km's being the worst. I dropped off each end of the half shafts and they are very rough (quite coggy) so it looks like they are stuffed too. Have 2 new ones to try. If that doesn't fix it, the spare diff I've ordered should. The shudder has been getting worse and now feels a lot like axel-tramp. It gets worse the longer you drive it until about 1 hour when it just stays really bad. So when it's cold after sitting all night it's not bad. Anyone ever heard of an auto gearbox doing something like this? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nz320i 0 Report post Posted January 20, 2006 yep mine does it too, since the manual g/b went in, not sure if its my drive shaft or diff as i had i little bit of knocking with the auto in it as well, also when i put the clutch in whilst reversing i get a big shudder and knock??? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wrs 118 Report post Posted May 29, 2006 (edited) Ok, here's an update. Still battling the problem... Changed the diff. Less noise but no change in the shudder. Changed the centre hanger bearing and rubber mount. 25km/h strong shudder gone. Now there's a low frequency annoying shudder of about 15-20Hz at most speeds from very slow to damn fast. Is less on very smooth roads. Wheel balance checked - ok (was unlikely to cause this issue). Rear shocks and top shock mounts replaced. Now is higher frequency shudder at 20-25Hz - what you'd expect from tighter shocks. Got under the car tonight and got the misses to put the car from forward to reverse on the auto. The diff is tipping up and down with the change. It's a total of about 4-5mm at idle torque. Got her to give it a bit of gas with foot on brake pedal. The diff kept tipping and moved about another 3mm with about the same level of pedal to do 50km/h. Noticed a large crack opening in the rear diff-mount rubber on the passenger side and the whole mount was deforming quite a bit. Maybe this is flexing like a bastard while driving normally causing the shudder. Also the whole subframe moves a small amount. I guess its supposed to move a bit. Anyone got any experience with diff movement. What's acceptable. I'm picking all my diff mounts are shagged... I know the cracked one is for sure is changing to an oval shape... Also going to change the rear gearbox mount as it's soft as. RH engine mount also has very small splits forming so will replace this too. Not leaking yet though... Edited May 29, 2006 by wrs Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gus 5 Report post Posted May 29, 2006 sounds like worn mounts..not sure about diff mount, never changed one but the engine (very important) box mounts make a big diff being good. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Carl 3 Report post Posted May 29, 2006 sounds like worn mounts..not sure about diff mount, never changed one but the engine (very important) box mounts make a big diff being good. Engine and g/box mounts are very important! I have new mounts all round now and he peace of mind is gold.Just an eye-opener, since it's on topic, a few weeks back I started having some really weird knocking and scraping noises coming from the leftish rear end when the car was under load with a frequency directly related to speed. It happened virtually out of the blue and a couple of days later I went to check everything out and discovered that all of my LR wheel nuts were loose Tightened them all up and the noises went away. Can only think someone went to steal my tyres and the alarm scared them off half way through or my ex-flattie had partaken in some malicious practises. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
danutt 4 Report post Posted June 6, 2006 got the damn shuddering happening in mine now but i flat foot it and itl get to around 5 g in first and hold there then shifts to second and shudders gets to bout 4700 sumtimes 5500 in second and wont rev further hold there with a kinda grinding loud vibration then shudder to third and at about 3500 or around 100 it shudders then shifts to forth and is fine after that dint go over 140ish and seemed fine up there but this morning i floored it it took off shifted all the gears fine revved fine and went well till bout 100 then i backed off wat the heck is going on here?? please help Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
danutt 4 Report post Posted June 6, 2006 ok i put the lil tapping sound down to tappets and rocker issue il sort but there is still this kinda rev limit at bout 5000 then shudder to second or third sumtyms forth also when i load da car and steer right i hear a knocking at the back wat could this be ?the knocking has subsided and round the same time if not as that went away the shudder apeared and magic rev limit it doesnt stop the revs it just slows it down sooo much sounds like its going to explode then shifts next gear please please please help worried az here thanx Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wrs 118 Report post Posted June 6, 2006 (edited) Does E30 have knock sensors. Excess internal engine noise might be tricking the knock sensors into thinking there's detonation, hence the loss of power and rev limit... Have read elsewhere that noisy tappets can trick the knock sensors. It's a wild guess really... Until sorted, I wouldn't rev it too much or load the engine too much. If it's timing related, you don't want to burn a piston. Have done this before! Edited June 6, 2006 by wrs Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
danutt 4 Report post Posted June 6, 2006 il take the advice on not drivin it quick for now il have da tappets set how much does that normally cost? could nething be wrong with the diff or half shafts coz there was a knock when turning right now its gone or only when the cars loaded?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wrs 118 Report post Posted June 6, 2006 Don't know how much, mines hydraulic... Good luck!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
danutt 4 Report post Posted June 6, 2006 is it possible for the timing to suddenley go out?the car has good low down torque but lower than a steady pull up top..they should make their power there im not too sure...the tappets are loud now could that coz any of the problems im experiencing??? driving the car really slow now dont go over 3000 or so just till i can figure wats wrong...this car has 142000kms approx and its a '90 the motor is mint but all of a sudden this starts happening help please thanx Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nz320i 0 Report post Posted June 7, 2006 subframe bushes isnt it people?? they are 200 each from euro-italia, do it then see what you think it might be that, does it hop round corners? ive been told thats what prob is, i dont hop round corners just have knocking sounds.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
petone 0 Report post Posted June 7, 2006 subframe bushes isnt it people?? they are 200 each from euro-italia, do it then see what you think it might be that, does it hop round corners? ive been told thats what prob is, i dont hop round corners just have knocking sounds.. would be suprised if its subframe bushes, mine were pretty rooted and the rear-end just sort of wondered around corners. No vibrations or shudders or anything. Besides, don't pay $200 for 'em. www.bmw2002.com for all your e30 needs $45 US + shipping for a pair, they work good. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
topless 5 Report post Posted June 7, 2006 With the tappet noises you have and the unwillingness to rev I would have a peek at the timing belt and just make sure that you havn't lost a tooth or 2.. Does the engine rev freely when you are in neutral? The auto boxes in these cars are full of sh*t, have replaced the one in wifeys car with a manual after hers disintegrated. Maybe yours could do with a filter and oil change before it dies?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
danutt 4 Report post Posted June 7, 2006 (edited) Revvs fine in neutral...what the heck's the problem then ???? I replaced the gearbox with a second hand one that has had no problems, the box was also serviced so if it's a gearbox problem this thing is up for sale asap. Still drives mint that's why im gutted about it really tidy e30 ?? thanks E: Write proper English Edited June 7, 2006 by Carl Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
