E36 Oil leak

[Syy0628 13]

Hi all,

My e36 316i  with m43b16 engine, started to pouring oil from right above the steering rack(about 500cc in 10mins, worst oil leak I have ever seen), I suspect the oil filter housing gasket has cracked, where can buy the gasket from, I remember seeing them from supercheap auto, but couldn't find it anymore. Also, I have a viscous clutch fan, any idea how I can get it off without the special holding tool?

Many thanks

[M3AN 4016]

Do you think #6 in this link has failed?

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BE22-EUR-09-1997-E36-BMW-316i&diagId=11_6110

BMW will sell you one, shouldn't be expensive.

Removing the fan clutch without the tool can be done with a long screwdriver and a mallet, check youtube for heaps of examples. The tool is useful if it's really seized on though.

[Syy0628 13]

On 7/10/2017 at 0:37 PM, M3AN said:

Do you think #6 in this link has failed?

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BE22-EUR-09-1997-E36-BMW-316i&diagId=11_6110

BMW will sell you one, shouldn't be expensive.

Removing the fan clutch without the tool can be done with a long screwdriver and a mallet, check youtube for heaps of examples. The tool is useful if it's really seized on though.

Yes, I think it is leaking from there. See photo2.

I have taken it apart yesterday, and the gasket seems ok, but there is no O-ring on the none return valve. however, my none return valve is different to the one in your picture. mine has four dips on it, two shallow one on the outer side.see photo 1.  I tried to install O-ring on the outer side dips, but there is no way it will stay when installing the value into the housing. so I end up installing both in the center two dips. I also found someone from Hongkong did the same thing on m43tu engine, see photo3, and he did not report any further problem.  I cleaned the mating surface and applied a coat of oil to the new gasket and reinstalled everything, but it is still leaking as bad as it used to be.

I tighten the bolts to about the same amount of torque when I loosen them, but since my torque wrench is too big to fit in there, I did it by feel.

The oil leak only happens when the engine is started, but leak really badly like a stream.

What did I do wrong? thanks

Edited July 11, 2017 by Syy0628

[M3AN 4016]

2 hours ago, Syy0628 said:

....however, my none return valve is different to the one in your picture...

What did I do wrong? thanks

I'm afraid this forum software is terrible so I can't quote you properly.

Go to here: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do?vin= and type in the last 7 characters of your VIN and then see if you can find a picture that matches your car, that might help (I guessed).

I'm not sure if you've done anything wrong, it's just too difficult to tell with photos. However, even if a gasket (especially a high pressure one) looks fine it may not be working as expected.

It's not clear to me if you installed a brand new gasket?

What torque is expected to tighten the bolts?

Edited July 11, 2017 by M3AN

[Lubed 55]

Looking at picture 1 it seems you have not taken the old O rings off the valve and have fitted the new O rings on top of the old ones. Old O rings do go hard over time making them look like plastic.

[Syy0628 13]

3 hours ago, M3AN said:

I'm afraid this forum software is terrible so I can't quote you properly.

Go to here: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do?vin= and type in the last 7 characters of your VIN and then see if you can find a picture that matches your car, that might help (I guessed).

I'm not sure if you've done anything wrong, it's just too difficult to tell with photos. However, even if a gasket (especially a high pressure one) looks fine it may not be working as expected.

It's not clear to me if you installed a brand new gasket?

What torque is expected to tighten the bolts?

thanks for your reply, yes I did used a new gasket, about the torque, somesay 20nm, is is not on the Bentley manual.

 

Edited July 11, 2017 by Syy0628

[Syy0628 13]

2 hours ago, rossrodgers said:

Looking at picture 1 it seems you have not taken the old O rings off the valve and have fitted the new O rings on top of the old ones. Old O rings do go hard over time making them look like plastic.

Damn, I think you are right. I found this picture online photo 4, the good one should look something like this. I am new to BMW, and I don't really know what I am doing. I should have asked you guys before I put it on. but hey, I learned something new(the hard way). someday, I will manual swap it and put an m52b28 in and play with the cam a bit.

But I swear to god mine old ring looks like a part of the valve, and there is no gap whatsoever. Even the reception guy at BM Workshop part department couldn't tell. I went to buy the O-ring with the valve, and after I got the O-ring, I ask him about where the O-ring should sit, he had a good look at it and told me it is supposed to be on the outside, and then I asked him it doesn't look like it will fit since it is too wide for the gap, and he said, you have to lube it with engine oil, and it will fit.  

The question is can I reuse the gasket and O-ring this time? it is only on there for one day.

 

 

Edited July 11, 2017 by Syy0628

[Olaf 3321]

8 hours ago, Syy0628 said:

The question is can I reuse the gasket and O-ring this time? it is only on there for one day.

your o-rings *should* be alright; clean them and check in good light that the surfaces are undamaged (not scored).  

Your gasket...  maybe.  Looking at your image it doesn't appear you've thoroughly cleaned the mating surface.  Your used-once gasket may be compromised by gunge underneath it, or possibly deformed by clamping forces onto large-sized grit (who knows?).  You could carefully remove the gasket and clean it, thoroughly clean the mating surfaces, and give it a try (I avoided saying 'crack').  

Neither your o-rings or gasket have been repeatedly heat-cycled, so you should be okay.  

If in doubt, new gasket; save you doing the job again.

HTH

[Syy0628 13]

18 hours ago, Olaf said:

your o-rings *should* be alright; clean them and check in good light that the surfaces are undamaged (not scored).  

Your gasket...  maybe.  Looking at your image it doesn't appear you've thoroughly cleaned the mating surface.  Your used-once gasket may be compromised by gunge underneath it, or possibly deformed by clamping forces onto large-sized grit (who knows?).  You could carefully remove the gasket and clean it, thoroughly clean the mating surfaces, and give it a try (I avoided saying 'crack').  

Neither your o-rings or gasket have been repeatedly heat-cycled, so you should be okay.  

If in doubt, new gasket; save you doing the job again.

HTH

2

The image is right after I pulled the OFH off the first time, so it is not clean.

I took it apart the second time, the two O-rings is kind of melted into one is already a little bit hardened? for only one day? I almost think there is something wrong with my engine oil, the oil leak started not too long after I changed the oil.I used Nulon 5w30 SN grade because they are on sale and as cheap as milk.  I did heard that some SN grade oil would harden rubber seal. but it is not supposed to be this quick.

I found some 25x3.1mm O-rings and used those instead. The gasket seems to have a little bit damage from the incorrectly installed O-ring at the top (got squeezed by old O-ring), but I decided to reuse it anyway to try my luck, and most importantly because I am broke.

The bad news is after I put everything back, it is still leaking a bit, much better than it used to be.  I should not have saved the 20 bucks on a new gasket. 

And the worst news, the 20 years old radiator expansion tank cracked after I support my elbow on it while doing the job twice, now the oil leak is not so bad, but the water leak is as bad as the oil leak use to be...

A new radiator is just too expensive, I guess I won't be able to drive it for some time.

Edited July 12, 2017 by Syy0628

[zero 1162]

Are you using the correct o-rings?

Not all o-rings are designed to work with oil.

[Eagle 1662]

You should of just bought the whole return valve which comes with o-rings, paid $11.25 USD  it

[Syy0628 13]

19 hours ago, zero said:

Are you using the correct o-rings?

Not all o-rings are designed to work with oil.

The O-ring I used at the first time was part of the kit, which I bought from BM workshop. They melted into one after the wrong installation. The current one I used is from the dollar store, they are softer than the one from BM workshop, don't know how long they will last. I put one dollar store O-ring in some used engine oil for one night, it is still alright, so I thought I will give it a try.since I am reusing the gasket anyway. I don't mind taking it apart again, it is relatively quick to do, about half an hour. now the leak is from the lightly damaged gasket instead of the valve plug. 

I just don't know if it is worth it to spend more money on this thing, I already regret buying this one, I was given the choice between a roadworthy high mileage 318isA  for  a bit more than 1 grand and this low mileage for the year lemon with like new interior for half the price, after I got it, I realized everything rubber and plastic is falling to piece, and a seized rear U-joint on the drive shaft. now I have already spend 200-300 on tyres and bushing on the chassis to make it pass warrant. (the previous owner left this car to die in his backyard after 2011)

to make the car reliable, I think I will need a new radiator, a new water pump and all belts and idlers pulley and some more rubber parts, two struts, a rebuilt drive shaft. then change the ATF fluid and diff oil. Which comes together to about 1000 on parts only. for a 316i and for what I paid for it, that is a lot of money.

[zero 1162]

Do it once, do it right.

 

Use the correct o rings.

[M3AN 4016]

9 hours ago, Syy0628 said:

to make the car reliable, I think I will need a new radiator, a new water pump and all belts and idlers pulley and some more rubber parts, two struts, a rebuilt drive shaft. then change the ATF fluid and diff oil. Which comes together to about 1000 on parts only. for a 316i and for what I paid for it, that is a lot of money.

In that case, see here: https://www.schmiedmann.com/

[Olaf 3321]

11 hours ago, Syy0628 said:

for  a bit more than 1 grand and this low mileage for the year lemon with like new interior for half the price, after I got it, I realized everything rubber and plastic is falling to piece, and a seized rear U-joint on the drive shaft. now I have already spend 200-300 on tyres and bushing on the chassis to make it pass warrant. (the previous owner left this car to die in his backyard after 2011)

is it ex-Singapore?

[Syy0628 13]

3 hours ago, Olaf said:

is it ex-Singapore?

Yes, I think that's the only place where 316i come with leather seats and stuff.

[Olaf 3321]

17 hours ago, Syy0628 said:

Yes, I think that's the only place where 316i come with leather seats and stuff.

there ya go, then.  There seems to be something about that Singaporean climate that totally f#&%s plastics, cooling systems, and aircon.  The cars may have low mileages, but they have many hours running - particularly at idle.

 

PS - -pop your number plate into carjam, it'll show you country of origin.

Edited July 14, 2017 by Olaf
jammin'