E39 530i Code P1345 on cold mornings

[Gabe79 410]

I've swapped coils. My plugs are new. No change so far. I plausibly have vacuum leaks, I'm planning to see a man about a smoke machine tomorrow.

I've read this could be camshaft position sensors. Any odds on intake, or exhaust side? 

What else should I be looking at? Google gives too many options, and I am unsure I want to replace all those parts on this car.

 

EDIT: I got way ahead of myself. This code kicks in first thing in the morning on cold mornings. Clear and it goes away every time.

Edited May 24, 2018 by Gabe79

[Allanw 1071]

Are your Vanos seals done?

Do you let it idle for a while when you start, or pretty much drive straight off (gently)?

[Gabe79 410]

3 minutes ago, Allanw said:

Are your Vanos seals done?

Do you let it idle for a while when you start, or pretty much drive straight off (gently)?

Vanos not done yet. I have the kit,  all parts new to replace on the way to the vanos seals too... I just need to buy the time to do it....

I let it idle a few minutes, but the roughness doesn't go away for a good 5-10 minutes/until I get up to operating temperature. 

I usually don't drive this car much at all, but I'm daily driving it 50ish km/day at the moment, and this code doesn't come back every morning, more on colder mornings like we've had lately. I tend to clear it each time, and watch for it in the mornings trying to gather patterns.

[Allanw 1071]

Start it up, and drive off straight away... well after like 30 seconds - it's better for the engine anyway.

You may find it doesn't happen as much. the 3.0 in particular, can have roughness and even stalling issues if the Vanos is bad enough - usually reported by people who leave it to idle, or pull straight into slow traffic (anecdotal, of course).

They retard the exhaust timing heavily on cold starts to heat the cats faster, and they can struggle to control the cam timing, because of the thick oil (high pressure, but low flow to the extremities).

Our M54B25 was never "rough" on a cold idle, but it was noticeable smoother after doing the Vanos seals.

If it were me, I'd probably not sweat it too much, until the seals were done, ans see if it's still an issue.

Out of interest, what grade oil are you running? 0W-something?

[Young Thrash Driver 1020]

Tsk tsk Gabe. I'm sure the owners manual says to drive immediately you start the engine.?

[Gabe79 410]

Just now, Young Thrash Driver said:

Tsk tsk Gabe. I'm sure the owners manual says to drive immediately you start the engine.?

Hmph

1 hour ago, Allanw said:

Start it up, and drive off straight away... well after like 30 seconds - it's better for the engine anyway.

You may find it doesn't happen as much. the 3.0 in particular, can have roughness and even stalling issues if the Vanos is bad enough - usually reported by people who leave it to idle, or pull straight into slow traffic (anecdotal, of course).

They retard the exhaust timing heavily on cold starts to heat the cats faster, and they can struggle to control the cam timing, because of the thick oil (high pressure, but low flow to the extremities).

Our M54B25 was never "rough" on a cold idle, but it was noticeable smoother after doing the Vanos seals.

If it were me, I'd probably not sweat it too much, until the seals were done, ans see if it's still an issue.

Out of interest, what grade oil are you running? 0W-something?

Your comment will make my wife happy. She keeps whinging about exhaust fumes now. She's the owner of that Leaf on my profile and bitterly complains about internal combustion engines now.

I run Penrite HPR5 5W-40. 

I do notice the roughness goes away after awhile, so maybe nothing to it, as you say. I will get around to doing the seals in the next month or two. Will see then...