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LsBeema

L98 into an E36 coupe.

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19 hours ago, LsBeema said:

Modified cover abit,  bonnet still wont close, have to take off abit more and try again...Man does it look complete in there..!!! Pics dont do justice again....Sorted lights, fog lamp, loose indicator, tidied up wiring abit...

 

And Sunday pics...she looks so stock..😍😍

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Oh My Poes, This thing is lekker bru 

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2 hours ago, BMTHUG said:

Oh My Poes, This thing is lekker bru 

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

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Machined the cover to fit...😍😍bonnet shuts...wanted this sleek/open look where you see the inlet manifold. 

New list for cert...🤯🤯🤓🤓

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Edited by LsBeema
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Fitted covers and wipers. Sorted out some wiring..more to be done.Engine bay starting to look clean. Still need to fit overflow coolant and window washer 🛢

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Edited by LsBeema
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Need to tidy up my fabricating sector...

Fit O2 sensors, loom extensions, flexs, center exhaust mounts to fab, prep and spray whole section...oh yeah, straighten tips ...🧐🧐🧐

Might be booking a Cert inspecion for 28th April...7 weeks to complete..... Need to source out coilovers.....anyone has any contacts...?

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Edited by LsBeema

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Floored it in 2nd gear today about 80 - 85 kph...lost traction ...after fitting O2 sensors..car is gone more smoother now.... No hesitations...intsant revs...you can have a silky az cruze in this Stealty Lethal Beast. 

Got the pipes exactly how I wanted them...finally!!

Xyc coilovers anyone...?

 

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Edited by LsBeema
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Have you got a second hoop behind the hanger bearing UJ? My cert guy made me put in 2 hoops, one where your's is and another behind the hanger bearing UJ.

Is the section where the bolts go through double-skinned (where you've bolted might be the only part that isn't)? Most of the E36 trans-tunnel is double skinned and crush-tubes need to be welded in where it is. My bolts come through the double skinned parts of the tunnel which made it a pain.

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7 hours ago, wrs said:

Have you got a second hoop behind the hanger bearing UJ? My cert guy made me put in 2 hoops, one where your's is and another behind the hanger bearing UJ.

Is the section where the bolts go through double-skinned (where you've bolted might be the only part that isn't)? Most of the E36 trans-tunnel is double skinned and crush-tubes need to be welded in where it is. My bolts come through the double skinned parts of the tunnel which made it a pain.

Nah no 2nd loop homs. Buddy with the Ls1E46 only needed 1. Hes guiding me into whats needed. Using the same cert inps. Yea...double skin...lets see what he says

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Will do a full prep and spray after welding up all leaks. Those 3.5s look Legendary on the rear. Pics doesnt do Jack.  Gave the radiator in today for a tube to be welded for the  5 mm Ls steam pipe oulet🙄. Booked cert for 28th April.

BC GOLDS or XYZ coilovers for cert... ..Really looking forward to the suspension sector of this build. ... mods would happen after the cert. Brace of an old subaru. 

 

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Edited by LsBeema

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Connected all the coolant piping, the steam vent tube🙄, stiffened up radiator brackets, ran up, bleed system, pressure tested...and then.   ....leak at water pump😤.  Did a 3 month floor scrub...so pleasing to work on such a project🤓 in such a tidy a workshop😇

 

This idle...is so Beema...cant get over it...so not Ls.

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Edited by LsBeema

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Think i figured out the hesitation....could it be that the fuel is getting too hot  and so is the Fpr which could be dropping the pressure 🤔🤔🤔. I will test it out tomorow..

Maybe shift the fpr...but like where...no space...or heat  proof and duct a vent...🤔🤔....any ideas

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Tested and hesitation sorted!!🤗🤗🤗

Fuel filter added, shifted fpr, alls cooler. No flat spot or cutting off. She runs smoother and idles normal after heating up. Will tidy up.

BCs looking like a strong possibility 😎😎

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Edited by LsBeema
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Will shift the fuel filter under the car when I pull the engine out after first cert inspection to access pipes. Also will make heat shields. 

Got aome 160 farenheit.. 72' thermostats...wanting 78s...doing some research on high Ls operating temps..

[08/04, 01:20] Jason: Operating temperatures have been a great debate for years..... So lets look at it this way. Why does GM run these cars at 200-220 degrees? They wear less there? The engines heat allow it to swell to deliver the acceptable tolerance. When you run your motor cooler/tighter you are going to wear parts quicker. How hot does nascar run their motors lap after lap? Is it because they can only control it but so much or is there power and longevity there? Just food for thought

Exactly... and I strongly agree. It's not like it costs GM "more" to put a lower temp thermostat - there's a reason GM likes their engines running between 190 to 225. Heck, a stock c7 thermostat is what, 190F? They're trying to get away with the highest possible temperature for fluidity, before obvious engine life reduction - this temperature range is what they believe results in the greatest balance of engine longevity, and performance.

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[08/04, 01:20] Jason: The key rationale behind a higher ECT is engine efficiency and emissions. Yes, component wear and performance are considerations as well - but the biggest factor is efficiency. Higher coolant temp means a smaller difference in temp between cylinder (during combustion) and the water jacket - which means less heat transfer from combustion to coolant - which means better thermal efficiency and better emissions. This improves fuel economy and reduces how much precious metals must be put into the catalyst in order to meet emissions regulations.

There are arguments to be made that all things equal (aside from coolant temp), that an engine operating @ 200F will experience less wear than the same engine @ 160F, but it depends a lot on the component tolerances.

You'll always make a handful more power running cooler, because the air will be heated less by engine components, and will therefore be more dense.

When I did engine development work on the dyno, when we wanted to post the absolute highest power number we could without "cheating" (pressurizing the test cell a little, or putting the exhaust suckers really close to the header collectors, etc etc), we would get the oil temp up to 250-260, and pull the coolant temp down to 150-160. This was always worth some power.

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Edited by LsBeema

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Ha, same thing I was starting to think about where my left side headers will be close to ABS unit and fuel lines etc ... staying tuned :D

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Opened the LsBeemas present now.....

Always wanted  good brand for the coil overs...and...

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