S65 rod bearing replacement -parts and a workshop

[BurntSoup 10]

Hi All,

I'm looking to replace these as preventative maintenance on my 2008 UK E92 M3. Based in Auckland, north shore.

First, my car has had some 'fun' in it's past. The previous NZ owner purchased the vehicle with the engine not working (apparently run out of oil) he then purchased a replacement engine and clutch in London when bringing back another vehicle (an X5). I'm told the new engine and clutch is from a 2010 with 40,000 miles on it (~64km).

My car itself had done around 137,000km when I collected it and I'm up around 153,000 now.

Previous owner seemed pretty genuine and a bit of a character at that. This would suggest the engine has done around 80,000km but I don't have any paperwork to clarify 100%

Having made the decision to replace these for piece of mind I'm wondering:

1. If I should use OEM bearings or some of the aftermarket options like BE. Is there any huge disadvantage one way or the other? Generally speaking I like the idea of keeping things original where it makes sense. However if I understand it correctly, the new replacement part BMW bearings are harder wearing and made of different materials which it's not possible to identify wear with an engine oil analysis. Some of the other brands like BE are perhaps better for monitoring lifetime wear through oil analysis?
2. When I was in at CC BMW yesterday (factory recall on battery cable) I asked about this. They said they can do the work but suggested that there were different parts and bolts for different versions of the engine. So without the chassis number of the car the engine came from they wouldn't know for sure which parts to order, they could pull the bearings out and look the order the parts (2 week lead-time) or order both options at my expense. BM Workshop who I inquired about about doing this work to yesterday indicated they done a few S65s and more S85s which give me some confidence in them doing the work. When I asked them about different parts they reckon the parts are all the same and they wouldn't need to open it up work work out what to order. The chap at BM Workshop sounded pretty confident  but does anyone know for sure about this? When I look online I can't see any different parts listed for years of engine at places like Turner Motorsport, parts say they fit all years of coupe, sedan and convertible so to me this supports his assertion that there is no difference.
3. Aside from BM Workshop I read aja540i mentioned using Taylor Automotive but I was unable to reach them this week on the phone (perhaps still on holiday). Is there anyone else I should consider for this work? I know this is a reasonably sizable job and appreciate the workshops have to make their margin, I've had ballpark estimates from 4.3k to 5k for this including parts, does this sound about right? based on aja504i's indication it seems it's probably in the ballpark.

Thanks for your help

 

[aja540i 1906]

I ended up using Bavarian motors in Glenfield because I supplied the parts including BE bearings from Turner. Ended up costing about the same as what CCBMW quoted me. 

 

[M3AN 4016]

Original VIN should be stamped on the block. Under the intake manifold I believe, not sure how easy it is to find/see though.

 

[BurntSoup 10]

Thanks guys, much appreciated. Hadn't heard of Bavarian Motors until you mentioned them, they seem to have a few mixed google reviews (but I guess who doesn't when you deal with a lot of people) -I used to use Burgers Motor Works years ago for my old E36 325. I know burger sold just over a year ago, the new guys seemed ok. They sorted my DSC pump out for me on the M3 about 6 months ago.

aja540i, Can I ask what made you decide on the BR product over new BMW bearings or WPC coated BMW bearings? Any recommendations over ordering online from Turners motorsport for BE or WPC?

Re VIN stamped on block I don't think I'm going to be able to find that myself in a hurry but I'll ask whoever I get to do the work to have a look for my piece of mind. Would have thought CCBMW would know. -FWIW I found guy on YT "BMtroubleU"  posted a short clip "Engine number location BMW M3 E93 V8", seems to only be the engine number though not the VIN.

Once I get there I'll post and update.

 

 

Edited January 15, 2019 by BurntSoup
edited for clarity

[M3AN 4016]

Original VIN can be determined via engine number and vice versa.

Good idea to get it recorded whilst someone else is in there.

[aja540i 1906]

I decided on the BE ones because they use a similar compound to the original BMW recipe so any wear will show up with oil analysis (which i will do at every oil change) they also have a non stick coating which was one of the things BMW did to reduce the wear on the bearings and i believe they also have a slightly larger clearance which allows for more oil between the crank and bearing, which should also reduce wear. I would have stuck with BMW but the new part number is a harder compound so doesn't wear the same and won't show up in oil analysis until it is too late. There are other options out there, but i had to make a decision and that's the way i went.

I ordered from Turners because they offer a kit that allows you to order all the parts you need to do the job, most of which were genuine BMW, i didn't get the oil from them because it blows the shipping cost out and they offer the new Shell BMW oil. I am sticking with Castrol to keep my analysis reports consistent.

[BurntSoup 10]

Just thought I'd post an update for those interested. BM workshop were happy to do the work and they seem like they are pretty reputable (indication was ~3.8k+GST which I felt was pretty reasonable). They are however only willing to use genuine BMW parts and have policy about not using customer supplied parts -concerns over warranty etc which I can kind of understand if customers were supplying parts they had no experience with and expecting to hold them to account.

I had planned to go a head with BM workshop and use the BE bearings for the exact reason Andrew mentioned above, luckily I had not pressed the order button yet. So now I've got to decide if I want to put the standard BMW ones in (which won't show up any wear in oil analysis) or go to someone else trustworthy enough to do the job. I feel putting the new BMW bearings in there is just inviting the same issue again down the track somewhere (with no easy way to tell if it's happening), but I can't say I like the idea of someone doing an average job there and having excessive wear developing after only a short distance due to over/under tightening or something. I think I'd be wondering every 10k if I should be looking at them again..hah

Anyway, I've not had much spare time this week to follow up and I'm out of town next. Will ponder this some more and decide who to talk to next or if I should just get new BMW parts.

Anyone else have good experience with Bavarian Motors?

Cheers

 

 

 

[Olaf 3345]

On 1/16/2019 at 5:50 AM, aja540i said:

I decided on the BE ones because they use a similar compound to the original BMW recipe so any wear will show up with oil analysis (which i will do at every oil change) they also have a non stick coating which was one of the things BMW did to reduce the wear on the bearings and i believe they also have a slightly larger clearance which allows for more oil between the crank and bearing, which should also reduce wear. I would have stuck with BMW but the new part number is a harder compound so doesn't wear the same and won't show up in oil analysis until it is too late. There are other options out there, but i had to make a decision and that's the way i went.

I ordered from Turners because they offer a kit that allows you to order all the parts you need to do the job, most of which were genuine BMW, i didn't get the oil from them because it blows the shipping cost out and they offer the new Shell BMW oil. I am sticking with Castrol to keep my analysis reports consistent.

Excellent thinking.  Much of the reading I've done indicates that much of the issue is down to the insanely thin clearance BMW specified in the S85 motor for the rods.  There's more than one workshop specifying bearings with an appropriate clearance, and continuing with the oil analysis.  

[TermiPeteNZ 1319]

I've asked Driscoll Motors about doing the job with the Turner kit, and will also check with John at Auto38.

[///M 22]

On 1/25/2019 at 4:57 PM, BurntSoup said:

Just thought I'd post an update for those interested. BM workshop were happy to do the work and they seem like they are pretty reputable (indication was ~3.8k+GST which I felt was pretty reasonable). They are however only willing to use genuine BMW parts and have policy about not using customer supplied parts -concerns over warranty etc which I can kind of understand if customers were supplying parts they had no experience with and expecting to hold them to account.

I had planned to go a head with BM workshop and use the BE bearings for the exact reason Andrew mentioned above, luckily I had not pressed the order button yet. So now I've got to decide if I want to put the standard BMW ones in (which won't show up any wear in oil analysis) or go to someone else trustworthy enough to do the job. I feel putting the new BMW bearings in there is just inviting the same issue again down the track somewhere (with no easy way to tell if it's happening), but I can't say I like the idea of someone doing an average job there and having excessive wear developing after only a short distance due to over/under tightening or something. I think I'd be wondering every 10k if I should be looking at them again..hah

Anyway, I've not had much spare time this week to follow up and I'm out of town next. Will ponder this some more and decide who to talk to next or if I should just get new BMW parts.

Anyone else have good experience with Bavarian Motors?

Cheers

 

 

What did you end up doing?

[BurntSoup 10]

Well it's a long time since I've posted but thought I'd leave quick update for any interested. I ended up getting BE bearings through Turner Motorsport online and used the 'Rod bearing overall kit' option they provide selecting to get some new engine mounts, boots etc while there (also a couple of spare throttle actuators for when they become a problem). Parts took a little while to get in as the bearings were out of stock at the time. Kit seemed pretty well thought out, had clear instructions and an install video. I talked with the team down at Edgell Performance in Wairau valley North Shore Auckland and they fitted them for me over a few days. Their workshop is pretty darn tidy and they were good to deal with. You can definitely see some wear on the old shells, not too bad compared to some I've seen online but glad for the piece of mind to get them done. FWIW had around 170km on the odometer when the job was done but actual engine mileage is closer to 100km (replacement engine). Job was done about a year ago, no issues.

[Illbilll 0]

On 4/18/2022 at 11:00 AM, BurntSoup said:

Well it's a long time since I've posted but thought I'd leave quick update for any interested. I ended up getting BE bearings through Turner Motorsport online and used the 'Rod bearing overall kit' option they provide selecting to get some new engine mounts, boots etc while there (also a couple of spare throttle actuators for when they become a problem). Parts took a little while to get in as the bearings were out of stock at the time. Kit seemed pretty well thought out, had clear instructions and an install video. I talked with the team down at Edgell Performance in Wairau valley North Shore Auckland and they fitted them for me over a few days. Their workshop is pretty darn tidy and they were good to deal with. You can definitely see some wear on the old shells, not too bad compared to some I've seen online but glad for the piece of mind to get them done. FWIW had around 170km on the odometer when the job was done but actual engine mileage is closer to 100km (replacement engine). Job was done about a year ago, no issues.

Awesome to know there is a trusty local workshop. Do you mind sharing how much it ended up costing at Edgell? Thanks