e30 318i Coupe

[Frank 1]

Hi, my son is looking at a 86 e30 318i, NZ New 126k, 5 speed manual, factory sunroof, described as not pristine but tidy for $3700.  Seems too cheap!

Looking to do basic mods (slight lower, new wheels) and then become his daily driver.

What do we need to look out for?  Rust in struts, sills, in front of windscreen seem the most common issues, is this same in NZ.

TIA

 

 

 

 

[E30 325i Rag-Top 2959]

E30 mechanicals are pretty easy and cheap to fix or replace.

Rust is the real killer for E30s much more expensive to fix, unless you are a panel beater.

All the spots you mention need looking at, plus the rear of the car around the lights and under the number plate lamps.

Front firewall is also prone to rust problems, the heater drain drips straight into a heat shield amongst other things.

[gjm 3258]

It's not too cheap - there are a lot of massively overpriced E30s on the market. Many hang around for a looong time, but it is true that the good ones are now commanding some quite exciting prices.

We considered an E30 for Miss M, but have finally settled on a E46 318i instead. Cheaper, probably more economical, and safer for a young driver. (But she'd still like an E30!)

[Frank 1]

Thanks Graham, he currently has a Skyline and been through the whole Nissan range of 2.5t cars, Cefiros, other Skylines, S14's etc, so the lack of HP in the E30 is appealing to his parents even if it doesn't have all the safety bits.  He has been looking at Escorts too which lack the safety bits but I understand the appeal having had a few of those myself.

If he has a nice almost classic then I don't mind using it occasionally either and he can use my E90.

[modz 148]

I bought my facelift 318i coupe for $4k if that gives you a benchmark 6months ago.

As others have said rust is the killer. Lift the boot carpet and check down in the battery tray area on the right, spare wheel well and around boot edges.

In your case with a sunroof check wet carpets, lower A pillars by the vents and the sunroof itself. They almost all rust.

Parts themselves...panels are getting harder to find good ones, but the rest of the mechanicals are easy.

The 318i will have the m10 which can do with a valve lifter adjustment and good oil if it’s tappy; otherwise start thinking about an m42 swap (great bang for buck).

Most importantly: it’s a 30+ year old car, but it can be amazing with good parts used (not cheap alibaba stuff).

PS: the speedo will likely be broken or have broken at some point. Don’t worry too much about it. Carjam will likely say it is incorrect...

[Frank 1]

Thanks, just got back from looking at it. Boot has rust showing plus some repaired patches cut in from a few years ago above the tail light.  Sunroof looks good, very dry as garaged and hardly used.  Last service was May 16 and it still has 3k's to go to next service, so i guess only about 2k travelled since May 16. 

Lots of little niggles you would expect of a 34 year old car including rev counter and vacum gauge don't work, service light still on from last service. Lots of signs of surface rust on seams, door hinges etc.  Bonnent stay not working, looks to be the gas ram. Battery Tray has been patched and is primed.  Dash has 3 full cracks.  Drivers seat pretty tired.  WOF sheets going back 10 years in car, nothing major over that time reported except rust to a middle sill which we couldn't locate so repair looks to be well done. (Unlike the boot..)

Reasonable ding in front left guard next to headlight, patch painted but nothing else.  

K's are low and engine no noise, gearbox a little notchy.

Brakes are terrible, not sure if that is normal, needs a service or just lack of use.

Gut feel is to dodge it and keep looking, it is the first E30 we have physically looked at.  Son is thinking at $2500 it could be worth getting then doing the engine swap you mention but for closer to $4k there are some nicer e36's around too.

[qube 3570]

Any and all e30 you will find will need work done. Some more some less. Be prepared to sink money into fixing things that wont increase value just to get it up to safe standard such as rust free and working brakes. Then comes the better performance stuff and of course maintenance etc. 

definitely not a easy platform to play with now compared to cheaper alternatives that dont need money thrown at it for problems relating to age. E36 is a good example same with e46 and e39 but of course not as “kewl”

 

[gjm 3258]

3 hours ago, Frank said:

Thanks, just got back from looking at it.

...

Son is thinking at $2500 it could be worth getting then doing the engine swap you mention but for closer to $4k there are some nicer e36's around too.

With WoF and rego it sounds like it'd be worth $2-2500. Nothing there that can't be sorted, but it takes time, and money (although how much depends on what you can do yourself, of course).

Check the odo is working - they often fail on E30s, and can give a false impression if distance covered.

Personally, I'd keep the M10, but I know a lot of people would disagree.

[modz 148]

If you can get it for cheaper do it. But as others said it will cost to bring up to scratch.

def not as heavy feeling and an e36 or even more so the e46 in my opinion.

and yes the brakes suck esp if not driven in a while. 

[Frank 1]

Thanks Everyone for your feedback, a bit to consider.  Other than painting we can do most things between us but we just aren't sure we are ready for a project just yet.  We hadn't gone into this with that intention.