Herbmiester 925 Report post Posted June 9, 2020 I think your right downpipes are a solid upgrade for performance gains but E30 (is it even available in Welly?) seems to have a few downsides in your situation. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jon dee 500 Report post Posted June 9, 2020 Yusss... I'd really like a set of Wagner downpipes because of the flexi section, but the price of getting a set into NZ is crazy. So I shall just order a China made set and settle for less than perfection. The money I save will easily cover the cost of installation plus buy a set of BMS filters for the intake side Cheers... 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jon dee 500 Report post Posted August 24, 2020 Couple of interesting developments. When I bought the 335i, before I even sat in it I heard a kind of soft rhythmic beat while the car was idling. I asked the guy selling it... what is that sound ? And he said that's the turbo wastegates. As a total BM noob I was prepared to accept that as I had read about wastegate rattle and thought it was probably related. Fast forward a nine months and I fail a warrant for an exhaust leak. Get under the car and take a look... both downpipe gaskets are toast... pretty much only the two perforated foil layers left from cheap aftermarket gaskets. Did a bit of research after I discovered that OEM gaskets are $50 plus EACH!!! Discovered why the OEM ones work and cheap aftermarket ones fail, so bit the bullet and and bought a set of ELRING gaskets. Whacked them in and suddenly no more "wastegates" noise But wait, there's more !!! Prior to replacing the gaskets I had been getting this CEL for an O2 sensor problem. My scanner showed a 100% fail on one of the WBO2 sensors and after choking on the cost of replacement sensors, I bought a full set of four sensors (which look pretty decent BTW) from China for less than the price of one OEM sensor. I wasn't looking forward to replacing the sensor and thought I would put that off until I installed downpipes. But dang me... since replacing the downpipe gaskets the CEL has not come back, and when I scanned for codes today, not only has the previously "dead" sensor come back to life, but it tests 100% OK Cheers... 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jon dee 500 Report post Posted August 24, 2020 Put downpipes on hold for the time being. I waited until the car came out of mechanical warranty (purchased by one of the previous owners) before I started installing the parts I bought last year. Got the BMS filters in... the rear one is an awkward fit. Definitely function over form there. Got the Chinese charge pipe in with only minor drama. Had to go to Google to find out how to get the TMAP sensor unplugged, and then the hole for the sensor was over bored by about half a millimetre. That meant the sensor O-ring wouldn't seal so I had to bodge a fix with another O-ring I had lying around. Used the OEM diverter valves as I am past the age of needing a fancy BOV on my car Car seems to run pretty good now with the stage 3 trans tune. It hustles so well in Sport mode that manual is almost redundant. I still have a lower charge pipe and stepped intercooler to install, and then I will upgrade to the MHD Stage 1+ tune. Based on how the car runs right now I might not bother with downpipes. It's difficult to find hard information on the benefits... a gain of "20-30hp with a tune" doesn't mean much if you don't know what percentage was due to the pipes and what percentage to the tune. I'm guessing that if I already have a tune the pipes might only contribute 10-15hp. Most anecdotal evidence seems to be based on butt dyno and throttle response. Not saying that downpipes are not a worthwhile investment, but if I'm going to put out $1000-1200 to buy and get them installed, I'd like to see some graphs and more specific details. The other thing is that I'm not a drag racer or circuit racer, and I don't pay $2500 for a set of tyres !!! I just like driving a nice quiet car that puts the power down smoothly and has the ability handle a bit of abuse at car club events from time to time. I don't expect to win anything... just have fun I like the car as it is at the moment, so I'm trying to figure how far to go with upgrades before the driving experience starts to downgrade ? No LSD, street tyres, stock suspension... sooner or later adding power reaches the point where other OEM components need upgrading for safety / reliability, and ride comfort starts to go down. There is a lot of experience on this site... feel free to add your views, especially if you reached a point where you decided to stop modifying. Cheers... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2425 Report post Posted August 25, 2020 For a street car and what you want from it I think stage 1+ is probably about where I'd stop. Higher than that and putting power down and being able to use and enjoy the power becomes a problem. There is no real way to properly use and enjoy stage 2+ without being on the strip or track, it just gets out of hand on the road. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smiddy 76 Report post Posted August 25, 2020 I'm with Kelvin also, 1+ is around 16lb boost and about 12 at redline, our roads are so rough, lucky these drivelines are strong. Just fitted a pair of Forge diverter valves(used) with green springs, car was slow down low, felt like low boost or a leak, thought obout the shims that this model uses to add a pretension on the boost side of piston and spring. Added a 3mm thick washer to the inside of each piston cup. Wow, what a differance, very fast spool and responce, mainly low and mid range, way better than OEM diverters. New turbos soon, inlets, and oem outlet mod, a custom tickle up on 1+ tune, then that will do. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jon dee 500 Report post Posted August 25, 2020 (edited) Interesting I find that the off idle throttle response on the 335i is quite abrupt if you happen to get on it suddenly by accident. Most of the time around town I am quite slow off the line as I try and "squeeze" the throttle slow and easy to avoid having first gear "bite" firmly. This is probably because the engine makes a lot of torque from low revs. I don't drive the car a lot so maybe it also means I have to adjust my driving habits I know that the Audi guys do a lot of complaining about the Bosch valves, but most of that is down to the fact that Audi install the valves with the connections reversed from the way that BMW install them. They have their reasons for doing that but the downside is that the valves are prone to "leaking" and "quacking" at higher boost levels. If I get a bad valve I would look at replacing the pair with GFB valves ex Aussi. I bought one a while ago to use as a diverter for my s/c Corolla and they look like a quality piece. As it turned out it wasn't suitable for my application and I ended up using a modified turbo legacy factory blowoff valve. Yeah... I agree that stage 1+ is a decent compromise for a bit more performance without pushing the car outside of its design parameters. I like it quiet, comfortable and refined... just as a luxury coupe should be. If I want a sports car or a race car I'd rather buy one than spoil the BM by trying to make it into one. Oh yeah, and I'm familiar with the phrase... famous last words Cheers... Edited August 27, 2020 by jon dee Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jon dee 500 Report post Posted August 27, 2020 (edited) Probably been asked a hundred times before but to avoid asking a noob question in the tyres and wheel forum I'll ask here Who has run 265/35-18 instead of 255/35-18 on factory 335i 8.5" wide wheels ? I know that it is pushing the envelope a bit but did it cause any handling problems ? Did it rub under any circumstances ? I've seen some cheap semi-slicks for sale and thought I might grab a pair since I have a spare set of wheels that aren't doing anything special Cheers... Edited August 27, 2020 by jon dee Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2425 Report post Posted August 27, 2020 In regards to the throttle, have you tried enabling linear throttle? I found mine a ton nicer to drive with that turned on as the throttle was far easier to control and more predictable. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jon dee 500 Report post Posted August 27, 2020 1 hour ago, KwS said: In regards to the throttle, have you tried enabling linear throttle? I found mine a ton nicer to drive with that turned on as the throttle was far easier to control and more predictable. Good call I had that on my list of things to do but completely forgot about it. I'll make a point of implementing linear throttle before my next drive. Cheers... 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jon dee 500 Report post Posted September 10, 2020 Finally flashed MHD 1+ and selected the linear throttle option. As suggested, the linear throttle makes the pedal response a lot more like the pedal response of a NA engine, and that definitely helps with getting away from the lights smoothly. The Stage 1+ tune (ver9 beta) also definitely produces more power but introduces a side effect that I'm not sure that I like. On Stage 1 the engine uses 3rd and 4th over most of my "test track", whereas Stage 1+ is super keen to get down into 2nd when 3rd would be adequate. Admittedly my test track is a twisty bit of country road with a lot of corners so the average speed is not high, but Stage 1 handled the corners fine yesterday without feeling the need to constantly chop down to second. I'm wondering if this is side effect of being further into throttle (%TPS) with the linear throttle, or if it is just what the Stage 1+ tune does ? Anyone else notice the same thing ? Cheers... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smiddy 76 Report post Posted September 10, 2020 You have stage 2 trans flash from memory, you should be using paddles on tight twisting roads. Not tried linear throttle myself. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jon dee 500 Report post Posted September 10, 2020 No paddles in my waka I use the shifter in manual when I feel the need but otherwise I am happy to let the trans do its stuff. Third is a very competent gear for moving quickly without having the engine roaring. Second is overkill even for quite tight corners if not in race mode. I'm going to run my full test circuit again just to verify that my initial impression is valid. If I still don't like it I will try ver8 1+. It seems like ver 9 1+ may have changed the trans behavior from ver 8 stage1, and I did not expect that. Cheers... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smiddy 76 Report post Posted September 10, 2020 Your saying you have 335i Msport without paddles? Makes a mockery of the word 'sport' in a car to me. How many gears can you lock into without up or downshift with shifter? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jon dee 500 Report post Posted September 10, 2020 Looks like paddles were an option that was not ordered on my car. Current version on xHP in manual mode locks each gear until the shifter is used, removes the rev limiter and removes the forced upshift feature. Sports and standard modes as usual but with throttle blips on downshift and altered shift points etc. Probably going to reflash without the linear throttle feature just to check if this has any influence on the trans performance. Broke my own rule of only changing one thing at a time to allow each change to be evaluated before implementing the next change. Cheers... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smiddy 76 Report post Posted September 10, 2020 Strange things these options. Brent at BM World maybe able to assist with options, surely you could fit paddles,(if you want) of course. Not sure on steering colume and wiring requirements, but surely options there. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jon dee 500 Report post Posted September 10, 2020 Paddles conversion is pretty straightforward... just need the msport wheel with paddles (typically around the $1000 mark) and a simple harness to run from the column to the shifter housing. Not really fussed about doing the conversion as I don't mind using the shifter or letting the trans decide which gear to use Cheers... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jon dee 500 Report post Posted September 11, 2020 On 9/10/2020 at 12:29 PM, jon dee said: The Stage 1+ tune (ver9 beta) also definitely produces more power but introduces a side effect that I'm not sure that I like. On Stage 1 the engine uses 3rd and 4th over most of my "test track", whereas Stage 1+ is super keen to get down into 2nd when 3rd would be adequate. Admittedly my test track is a twisty bit of country road with a lot of corners so the average speed is not high, but Stage 1 handled the corners fine yesterday without feeling the need to constantly chop down to second. I think I lost the plot there for a moment Must have been in Sports mode when I thought I was in normal mode... DOH !!! When I went for a drive this morning in normal mode the car behaved just like normal. So I will stay with the Stage 1+ tune for a few months and see if there really is any downside compared to Stage 1. The linear throttle mode is like the car is on Valium... all that pent up "ready to kick ass" feeling is gone. I missed it today... feels like the car dropped 100hp overnight. But it makes stop and go driving soooo much easier, that I'm going to see if I can re-train my right foot to be a bit more aggressive now that the lightswitch effect is gone. Cheers... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Herbmiester 925 Report post Posted September 14, 2020 It took me about a week to get used to linear throttle but obviously there is no loss of power you just have to use the pedal fully. It is so much better for everyday driving and makes working around the small bit of turbo lag so much easier. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jon dee 500 Report post Posted September 17, 2020 Went for a leisurely lope up to Foxton and back today... about 230km all up... and nothing but D for Drive the whole way. Got a bit of a feel for it now and the car really does seem emasculated with the linear throttle mode. Nice and relaxing to drive especially around town and in traffic, but definitely need to encourage kickdown to get a decent passing maneuver going on at 110-120kph Going to try sports mode for a while now and see how that feels by comparison. .. tough job but someone has to do it... Cheers... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2425 Report post Posted September 17, 2020 It only feels that way because half throttle is 50%, not whatever the car fees like between 5% and 90% ? thats what I hated about mine when I got it before linear throttle, is there was no real way to predict what the throttle was going to do, and it was usually too much. I guess the higher the state of tune/power the more compounded that effect was too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jon dee 500 Report post Posted September 17, 2020 (edited) Being how this is a fly by wire throttle setup there are a lot of complex tables that need to be adjusted to get from the stock throttle response to a linear response. Juggling seven balls while riding a unicycle down steps would be easier than writing the software for linear throttle. First, the throttle is a butterfly valve that does not have a linear control curve. Second, turbo output is not linear with engine speed. And third, the DME runs a closed loop system that tries to match torque delivered to its best guess at torque required based on how far and how fast you press the gas pedal. All of this has to be weighed against a drivers expectations and the need to ensure that throttle response, acceleration, gear changes and so on are safe and acceptable to a wide range of drivers/car owners. Meeting all those goals is no easy task and I think that MHD have done a pretty good job of smoothing out throttle response for those owners who prefer a relaxing drive experience to a sporting one. However, for people like myself who just wanted to smooth the initial drive takeup when moving off from a stop, the linear throttle feature has also sucked a lot of the fun out of throttle response while driving (at least in D for drive mode). This is just an observation and not a criticism. It is necessary to try new features to get a firsthand impression of how they work and then decide if you want them or not. As I said, I will try driving in sports mode to see if and how that is affected by the linear throttle feature. If there is little or no affect on sports mode then it may be that having the option to knock the shifter sideways when feeling sporty and leave it is drive when driving across town may be the best of both worlds EDIT: Well that didn't take long !!! One short trip over and back the hill up the road from home and I can tell you that there is no way that Sports mode could substitute for Drive when pedaling softly. Uphill the car holds gears for far too long... like 4000rpm with very little load, and downhill it is far too eager to downshift into second. Shifting in and out of second is accompanied by a disconcerting "bobble" as if the lockup is releasing early enough to allow a little free running followed by the load being taken up with a small bump. I can't say if this is just the way Sports mode is in the Stage 1+ tune or if linear throttle is having some negative effect on light throttle driving. Doesn't matter... I don't like it and won't be using it. I'll try flashing Stage 1+ without linear next to get a better idea. Cheers... Edited September 18, 2020 by jon dee Added more information.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jon dee 500 Report post Posted September 19, 2020 OK... enough with the subjective opinions and time for a sanity check 1. Sports mode is by definition a mode for people who like to drive in a "sporty" manner... keeps the revs up and use the gears for best performance type of thing. So it is unreasonable to expect Sports mode to behave like Drive at low throttle openings... point taken. 2. Linear throttle effectively flattens out the torque curve to make acceleration progressive with throttle opening. This creates a throttle response similar to that of a non-sporting N.A. engine. But taking away that surge of acceleration a turbocharged engine delivers when the throttle is opened removes a lot of the enjoyment obtained from driving a 335i. Linear throttle and Sports mode are not complementary features... choose one or the other. Today I rolled back to MHD Stage 1+ ver 8 without selecting linear throttle. Main idea was to get a baseline impression and eliminate any unusual effects due to the linear throttle feature. My initial impressions are that the Stage 1+ tune has cleared up a lot of the "slow takeup" when moving off from a standstill. I will need more seat time to be sure, but right now I don't think I will be needing linear throttle... AND... the fun factor is back Sports mode behaves as expected with the car eager to get down to second when slowing/braking into low speed corners. This is (and was) a bit disconcerting when trying to drive the car sedately, but the annoying "bobble" has gone. And once I start to drive a bit more enthusiastically, the downshifts become a natural part of "high rpm use all the gears" driving. Again, i will have to use Sports mode a few more times to firm up my impressions, but I am liking it more now. I lost sight of the fact that with Stage 1+ being a more aggressive tune than Stage 1, it could be expected that the driving experience could be more sports focused. As for linear throttle, it does what it says on the box for Drive mode. But I enjoy driving and that surge of acceleration when the turbos hit ???? Cheers... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Herbmiester 925 Report post Posted September 20, 2020 To be clear to anyone else reading this linear throttle has no effect whtsoever on power or torque. Having run both the original and linear I choose linear as it gives you more control and has absolutely no effect on the torque curve all it does is require full pedal use to get full opening of the buterfly. If you want big increases in throttle movement for small increases in pedal movement then leave it stock. If you want fine control especially when controlling the transition into boost on tight corners, slipery conditions or when at the limit of grip then linear is the way to go, if straight lines and highyway cruising are you domain then leav it as is. That said with electronics turned off I can launch more consistantly with linear and according to Draggy thats how I get my best 0 to 100 times. Finally v8 MHD maps arenot my favourite v9 are a big step forward slightly better 0 to 100 times and noticeably smoother. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smiddy 76 Report post Posted September 21, 2020 My first MHD flash was 1+ 8.0 beta, was ok but I had no starting point other than stage 1. Downloaded 8.1 when released, but not happy, was jerky on throttle transitions, up or down. 9.0 as John has stated is a different end result entirely, smooth, with what i would call a part- linear throttle response. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
