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jon dee

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jon dee last won the day on June 27

jon dee had the most liked content!

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About jon dee

  • Rank
    2nd Gear

Previous Fields

  • Name
    John D
  • Location
    Wellington
  • Car
    2008 335i Msport Coupe
  • Mods List
    MHD Stage 1+ ver.9 beta; XHP Stage 3
  • Car 2
    Mitsi Colt Plus Ralliart

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Cars, dirt bikes, adventure riding, reggae, blues, hill walking, old buildings, analog dials :)

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1349 profile views
  1. Yes, I could see from the pic of the rebuild that the man was fastidious in his workmanship. It is one thing to maintain a perfect finish on the outside of a car, but when the same level of care and attention to detail is applied to the to the parts that will not be seen when the car is assembled, that is something else !!! It is the hallmark of a true craftsman and enthusiast... someone who puts love into their work... and it shows Cheers...
  2. Your neighbour has impeccable taste If that is an E39 six-pack Hemi stuffed in there that must be a handful on the track. As I am not a collector or investor, I personally have no problem with upgrading the drivetrain in classic cars so long as the outward appearance of the car is not changed. My interest is in the styling, and seeing these beautiful old cars doing what they were designed to do... be driven with enthusiasm !!! Some are rare and very valuable and I have nothing but admiration for owners who either drive, or allow others to drive them in events such as the Goodwood Revival and Festival. Cheers...
  3. What he ^^^^ says. Get hold of a decent battery charger and hook it up in the engine compartment as shown in the pic. Positive lead to the positive terminal (green arrow) and negative lead to the grounding lug (yellow arrow). If everything works fine for a while and then the yellow battery symbol on the dash comes back and the problems start again, your battery is not charging off the alternator. Cheers...
  4. Yusss... I think this car struck the perfect balance point to capture the true essence of what a sports car should be. There were a lot of other worthy contenders in the late fifties and sixties (MGA, AC ACE, XK150, Sunbeam, Triumph etc) but to me the Healey 3000 just put it together better, with that beautiful little hardtop being the icing on the cake Running gear was derived from other existing and heavier Austin models to keep things simple, so no exotic or fragile mechanicals. The bodywork refined and purposeful with long bonnet and short boot as a sports car should be, but without any quirky or outlandish design features to spoil the classic profile and age quickly. Lots of torque and enough power to have tail-happy fun. Enough space for two and an overnight bag... no attempt to pretend that this was a family friendly car !!! If they could replicate this car today using the same design and parts sourcing philosophy, I would be first in line to put my money down Cheers...
  5. This car represents the epitome of British sports car design. It has a purity that cannot be matched by anything leaving the factory today. A true classic that has endured for sixty years and will still look good in another sixty years !!! Video here... https://youtu.be/ze6MTz0fkmY Cheers...
  6. Pic lifted from here... https://www.bimmerboost.com/showthread.php?35181-N54-Valve-cover-gasket-DIY Clip doesn't appear to have any practical use, so I guess it is just something added by BMW to piss off DIY people Cheers...
  7. Yeah... I know that feeling Had a few problems when I did my first flash, and having read a few stories about people "bricking" their DME's I was uber worried until I managed to sort it out. Cheers...
  8. As you are no doubt aware, the SC14 is an old unit. It is getting harder to find a good one, and they are inefficient by comparison with newer Roots type blower designs. Twinscrew superchargers offer higher efficiency while retaining the driving characteristics of the Roots blower, but in the US in particular, centrifugal superchargers such as ProCharger are dominating the aftermarket for mechanical superchargers. In Europe Rotrex have done a lot of work in helping to develop centrifugal blower kits for BMW's. If you can get (or already have) an SC14, would be happy with a modest increase in power and a decent improvement in low end torque, then by all means DIY the SC14. However, unless you get lucky and can find someone who can help you with the mounting bracket design, ducting and intercooler layout, you will be on your own. Engine management may also be a challenge unless you change to an aftermarket ECU or have a friend who is clever enough to be able to modify the factory DME to handle the changes in fueling and ignition timing. The personal satisfaction to be gained from completing such a project is considerable, but do not underestimate the time and effort that will be involved. Do your homework before you pick up your tools and identify the parts of the conversion that you can handle yourselves and what parts may require help from experts. Good luck Cheers...
  9. Umm... don't suppose you got that on video at all ? Asking for a friend... Cheers...
  10. Just a random thought... I was looking at one part of your log where there was a spate of small ignition trims across all six cylinders when the car was cruising just out of boost at 2500rpm/120kph in 6th gear. There is nothing unusual reported in the log at that moment so it is extremely unlikely that you could get detonation under those load conditions. It reminded me of the situation when I was seeing knock in my logs (other car) on the overrun when the engine was in fuel cut ???? Not possible bro !!! It was false knock from mechanical engine noise. So I was wondering if you might be getting the same ? If you have anything about the engine that rattles metal on metal that could transmit noise to the block, then it might be getting picked up by the knock sensors. For example, if your downpipes were super close together they might vibrate at a certain engine rpm enough to rattle against each other. Since they don't appear to have any gaskets that would insulate against sound transmission, that might reach the ears of the knock sensors. So if you happen to have a persistent rattle that always occurs under the same driving conditions, it would be worth investigating. Cheers...
  11. Yeah... what the Ninja said LPFP always around 70psi... jiggles up and down a bit but that is normal and to be expected. HPFP pretty much stays above 2000psi under load with the odd spike down to 1700-1800psi. Again that is fine and you don't have any leaning out as both banks are solid on 11.4 AFR when balls out In fact everything I can see looks to be pretty much in order, so the random ignition trims are a bit of a mystery. I had a look at the low load/low rpm ignition trims and there doesn't seem to be any obvious reason for them. Unfortunately your logs are not showing any knock counts or actual ignition timing, and those are the readings most relevant for seeing if you are getting det or a little bit too much timing in a few places. I'm not a tuna so there may be factors at play that I don't know about. If you have a stumble / ignition breakdown / misfire that can't be explained, the best thing would be (provided you can replicate the issue) to get the car on a dyno and have a real tuna check it out. I had an engine that had so much mechanical noise (false knock) in the same frequency as the knock sensor monitored, that knock detection was useless. It took me a long time chasing ignition issues before I realised I actually had a bit of real knock !!! Cheers...
  12. Intake air temperature (IAT) has a direct effect on combustion chamber temperature. And as you can see from this screenshot, there is a rise in the IAT that coincides with the DME starting to pull timing. Seems the OEM intercooler can't cope with the combined effects of continuous WOT/ high boost operation and the MHD tune. Looks like ambient on the day was around 25deg so the OEM cooler was doing OK until you hit it with that long stretch of continuous high boost. Interestingly enough, I see ignition timing being pulled in quite a few places, and in one spot at around 2500rpm when out of boost and not pedaling hard. That is obviously a different issue and may or may not be significant I'll take a look tonight and see if I can find any clues. Cheers...
  13. Had a look at one of your logs because.... interesting Here is a pic of a section towards the end of log 3. Everything looks good... pressures, temps, AFR etc until around the 650 second mark. You have been cranking on it pretty hard and then the DME starts pulling timing... pulls it and then ramps back up as expected. If I was in the guessing game (and of course I am) I would say that the DME was picking up a bit of det and likely you had hot spots in those cylinders. Did you change to colder plugs before that track day ? Cheers... PS: Added a screenshot from Datazap to give you a better idea of what I was seeing...
  14. Having to do a major re-think on this little project. The pressure vs engine load characteristics of the N54 combined with the huge hysteresis of mechanical pressure switches make setting a 45 ~50psi alarm point problematic. Therefore I am thinking that I shall have to do some old fashioned trial and error experimentation with an electric pressure sensor and a gauge with an adjustable low alarm set-point. @Ninjaspartan How easy is it to access 12V constant and 12V key switched around the engine bay ? Virtually no current involved so vampire clips would work for the purposes of experimentation. Cheers...
  15. Got this little adpater that looks as so it will work. M12 x 1.5 either end and 3 x 1/8"NPT tappings. Two plugs provided to block off the tappings that are not used. Got to thinking while waiting for this, that a water temperature warning might also be a good idea. The N54 has a reputation for water pump failures and blown head gaskets / warped head if you don't pick up the overheating quickly enough. So I will be taking a look at either a gauge with alarm function or a temperature switch for the cooling system while collecting parts. Cheers...
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