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jon dee

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jon dee last won the day on February 25

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About jon dee

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    2nd Gear

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  • Name
    John D
  • Location
    Wellington
  • Car
    2008 335i Msport Coupe
  • Mods List
    MHD Stage 1+ ver.9 beta; XHP Stage 3
  • Car 2
    Mitsi Colt Plus Ralliart

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    Male
  • Interests
    Cars, dirt bikes, adventure riding, reggae, blues, hill walking, old buildings, analog dials :)

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  1. Minor thread jack... I noticed that my logs show the throttle opening to 80% and staying there when my foot says go WOT. Is that a normal BMW thing ? Something to do with the ECU considering that 80% TPS is optimum for intake velocity/power ? Cheers...
  2. There are groups of people, organisations and individuals in this country, so insulated from the ugly realities of life, that they think they can change the course of human development by making a bunch of regulations forcing people to be nice to each other. When you consider that after 4000 or so years half the world is still tearing at each others throats, I find it somewhat naive for anyone to think that human nature can be regulated. Perhaps we can teach all NZers to respect other cultures, people, their property and ideas ? Perhaps I would feel better if a large person holding a weapon was to say to me... Pardon me sir, but due to certain exigencies of a personal nature, I would be sincerely grateful if you would surrender to me your car keys and your wallet. Due to certain traumatic events in my formative years and a lack of community support, I have developed certain disquieting personality disorders that prevent me from achieving my full potential as a person. I apologise in advance for any pain or psychological damage that you may suffer as a result of my unsolicited request, and trust that you will not prejudge me because of my race, religion or appearance. Hey... lots of luck with reforming society... but base instincts are base instincts and they are born anew with each generation. Cheers...
  3. This is an interesting thread as I went thru a similar process trying to cure a mid range stumble on a small supercharged engine (not a BMW). It showed up as a droop in the boost trace over a span of around 1000rpm, and I managed to convince myself (wrongly as it turned out) that it was an ignition breakdown/spark blowout event. Below that rpm band the engine pulled hard and above the band it ran fine all the way to redline. I tried everything I could think of... upgraded the ignition from twin coil packs and wasted spark to COP's fired sequentially; tried one step and two step colder plugs; tried non-projected insulator plugs; multiple different settings for the water/meth injection; changed to larger injectors to make sure I had enough fuel and keep the IDC below 85%... made innumerable logs and minor adjustments to the fuel map, but nothing worked. Finally, I tried backing off a few degrees of timing in the ignition map and dang me if the droop in the boost trace disappeared In my defense, I have to say that although I had a knock detector wired to the ECU it was essentially useless. There was just too much mechanical noise (false knock) in the frequency band where real knock could be expected. Anyways, once I had the timing sorted it ran like a champ. Sold the car to Australia and the guy that bought it told me when he took it for a run it ran like a dog... wouldn't take full throttle were his exact words ???? Couldn't figure that out for quite a while until he told me it was about 40deg that day. I also doubt that he had put any water in the injection tank, so the engine which was tuned for 20deg ambient here in Wellington was sucking in hot air with no water for charge cooling. Poor little engine must have been knocking like crazy I felt a bit guilty about that for a while, as TBH I clean forgot that the car might need to be re-tuned and have the cooling system upgraded for Australian conditions. It worked fine without an intercooler and never over heated here in NZ, but an extra 20deg ambient changes things quite a bit. All of this is likely irrelevant to your particular hesitation issue, but will give you an idea of what happens when you don't keep an open mind to any of the many possibilities that can cause a stumble. Cheers...
  4. Thread right here... https://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/65398-n54-intercoolers-nz-source/ Cheers...
  5. I am certifiably not racist. It makes no difference to me who makes a product, but if it is a crap product I will call it as such. I see no need to pussyfoot around the issue... if it walks like a duck and talks like a duck, then I will call it a duck.... not an anas platyrhynchos domesticus to avoid offending a countries sensibilities. Ultimately, by telling the truth, you are providing valuable feedback to the supplier that will help them select and stock a better quality product Incidentally, I consider that the jack stands I bought from a local store are perfectly adequate for my purposes and I have no complaints. Cheers...
  6. Yeah... I'd agree with getting some logs to see what is actually going on. Oil temp at 120C is getting up there. A is going to nd 6-10 laps of hard WOT pulls thru the gears only relieved by a bit of off throttle braking into corners is likely to push the intercooler temp up and efficiency down resulting in high IAT's. Add in a tune that no doubt has pushed the timing up a bit and you have a recipe for detonation around peak torque. If you get knock in that zone there is a good chance the ECU is pulling timing. Logs will tell the story !!! Cheers...
  7. There was a time when I believed that I needed to buy the best British made hand tools for doing a bit of DIY woodwork in my shed. Now those fine trade quality tools are quietly rusting away while I use cheap electric or battery powered tools when I feel the need to saw, drill, sand or plane. So what I have learned is that a person should buy the tools that are suitable for and appropriate for their needs. Trades people should buy the best quality, handymen can manage with medium range and DIY "FARK!!! hit my thumb/cut my hand!!!" type people might as well buy cheap as they are going to end up getting someone else to finish the job anyway. Back on topic... I have four Chinese "3 ton" jack stands exactly as shown in this pic... These same stands are sold in every country that has covid and yet the news media are not reporting a pandemic of crushed bodies or severed limbs due to stands failing in service. Yes, I have no doubt that there have been failures but covid vaccines appear to have contributed to a few deaths as well. How many ? Who knows... maybe one for every ten million jabs ? About the same with jack stands I would guess. In any event, I put four of my "3 ton" jacks under my 1700kg car, so assuming equal weight distribution they are each carrying around 425kg which is 14% of their rated capacity. That gives a safety factor (LOL) of 7 for the Chinese stand. I'm OK with that. But there is no way I would put three tonnes on one of those stands and want to be in the same room. It's just basic risk management Cheers...
  8. Don't know how they do that but I figured this one out Cheers...
  9. Should look like this if you do it right.... Cheers...
  10. Probably better to go back to the old tried and true methods... Cheers...
  11. Just because the ratchet part doesn't work you can still make good use of the stand... Cheers...
  12. 1kg is the basic size mandated for Clubsport level events, and I have one in my car. Thankfully I have never needed to use one to put out a fire. But a few years back I read about a guy who had spent a couple of years building up his road car and a small fire started in the trunk on his very first test drive. He had to stand by and watch two years work burn to the ground as he was unable to control the fire without an extinguisher. That convinced me that even a small extinguisher is a worthwhile item to carry on any vehicle. Cheers...
  13. Just noticed that I am missing this part from my left headlight. It's a rubber strip that sits on top of the headlight glass and is held in place by two plastic clips that slot into brackets molded into the bodywork above the light. I guess it is a gasket to keep rainwater from flooding thru the gap between the front edge of the hood and the light. The BMW part number is 63 11 7 174 517. I'm guessing that it is common to the e91, e92 and e93 335i and possibly to other 3-series cars. If anyone has one lying about that they are prepared to part with or sell, please let me know. Wellington area is good but happy to pay postage. EDIT: According to RealOEM this part is found on all variants, so 320, 325, 330 etc. Part 63117174517 was found on the following vehicles: 3' E90   (01/2007 — 07/2008) 3' E90 LCI   (03/2008 — 10/2011) 3' E92   (05/2005 — 02/2010) 3' E92 LCI   (09/2009 — 06/2013) 3' E93   (09/2005 — 02/2010) 3' E93 LCI   (07/2009 — 10/2013) Cheers...
  14. There are a lot of systems on the market, most of them coming out of the USA where bolt-on superchargers have become a big thing in recent years. Every manufacturer claims that their system is the best and most of them will do a reasonable job. The differences are mainly in the way the mix is atomised, how many safeguards there are and how the rate of injection is varied to allow the flow rate to increase as the boost increases. If you want something simple , There is one system used by rotary guys in Aussi that originally just used water and applied boost pressure to the container to force the water out a nozzle into the intake. I think that it has got a bit more sophisticated now, but in my book simple is always best. Read about it here... http://riceracing.com.au/water-injection.htm Cheers...
  15. A few years ago I looked at all the then available water/meth kits, and ended up installing an AQUAMIST HSF-3 setup on my 1600cc Corolla. Probably a bit of an overkill but I was running a twinscrew S/C without an intercooler, so needed something that would track injector duty cycle. As it happens Aquamist have the best hardware and arguably the best controller for W/M injection. Their components are a work of art... all manufactured in house and not bulk purchased from the local hardware or irrigation shop. I ran two nozzles, one just after the S/C and one just before the intake manifold. Took a while to learn how to get it working properly and the only real problem I had was getting the flow rate down low enough for such a small engine. The HSF-4 kit is said to be the one to use on direct injection engines, and you can read a bit about it in the link to Aquamist Direct. The diagram shows the major system components. Depending on how serious you want to be, you can just run a single nozzle (maybe two if you have an aftermarket charge pipe with two bungs) and take your chances with equal distribution to the cylinders. Or you can go all out with port injection if you are pushing the limits. Aquamist have a decent forum and having a browse there will be educational. A BM is obviously on a different scale to a Corolla but the principles are essentially the same. For charge cooling I used 50/50 water/meth by volume, which gives 44% meth by weight and makes measuring easy. Or you can mix 440ml of water plus 560ml meth for 50% meth w/w. That's probably enough to get you started Cheers... http://www.aquamist-direct.com/806-400-direct-port-bundle-options-2-4-weeks/
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