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jon dee

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jon dee last won the day on September 8

jon dee had the most liked content!

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About jon dee

  • Rank
    2nd Gear

Previous Fields

  • Name
    John D
  • Location
  • Car
    2008 335i Msport Coupe
  • Mods List
    MHD Stage 1+ ver.9 beta; XHP Stage 3
  • Car 2
    Mitsi Colt Plus Ralliart

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  • Interests
    Cars, dirt bikes, adventure riding, reggae, blues, hill walking, old buildings, analog dials :)

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1678 profile views
  1. "Aero style" or "turbofan" wheels... been used for yonks on certain fast factory cars. I believe they are supposed to reduce drag and improve airflow over the brakes. And yeah, rivet on widebody kits do look a bit/lot ghetto, but they make sense on a race car where being able to replace damaged guards quickly is a a big plus. And I believe the grey car is a race car. Cheers...
  2. Such things tend to run in cycles. A period when colours are a sign of individuality and rebellion, followed by a period when bright colours are considered ostentatious and conforming to the conservative majority of middle class is the norm. Just now we are entering a phase where "look at me" colours are becoming acceptable once again. Grey imports was a very apt term for upmarket cars like BMW and Mercedes twenty years ago. Now blue, red orange and green etc are becoming more common. Ultimately everyone is entitled to like what they like, and I for one am happy to see more than just plain white or silver/grey cars on the road. Bring on the orange, pink and green... the red white and blue Thanks to the advent of the vinyl wrap you can experiment and go back to stock when you get tired of the comments !! Cheers...
  3. That orange colour seems to be quite popular at the moment with modified cars.... I actually quite like it so long as the car is "not over the top" and trying to put too many styling features onto the car Cheers...
  4. jon dee


    Don't know your car or how its fuel system works, but did you brim the fuel tank up until fuel came up the neck of the tank ? On some vehicles that can lead to a bit of fuel getting pushed out when the fuel heats up from the engine running, or just from the day warming up. Disregard this post if the tank was less than full. Cheers...
  5. Like the concept, interior and engine bay. But for the money I would have preferred to have the body kit moulded in rather than "riveted" on. The duck tail boot spoiler could have a bit of shape as the straight line does not really blend with the otherwise curvaceous body And one of my personal peeves... gold is not a neutral colour in my book and I don't think that those wheels are a good colour match for that car. I like this concept better.... Cheers...
  6. Flashed the MHD Adjust Throttle Sensitivity option with the setting at 50% of scale. Went for a short drive in Sports mode and noticed some glitches in the shifting... like the DME and TCU weren't synched correctly. Going to give that a bit of time to see if the adaptions sort that out (I am not a big believer in resetting adaptions as a first course of action). Then I switched to Manual mode and yes, changes certainly seem to be crisper than before I'd like to do a bit more driving before experimenting with higher settings. Today I had a lot of trouble getting my generic D-CAN cable to make a solid connection between my tablet and the DME. Must have taken half an hour and about 20 attempts before it would play ball.... Need to find a better way. Cheers...
  7. If you look closely at the in-car vid you can see his left leg twitching Pretty sure he is flat shifting as when you listen to him talking in the full vid he talks about missed shifts and having a problem with a broken shift fork. Either way, I always vote for DIY cars that get the front wheels off the ground ... old school cool Got the update downloaded and ready to flash, but realised it has been a long time since I used manual mode. Now I have to go for a bit of a drive before I flash the tune so I can get a better idea of the current MHD/xHP shifting to make a comparison with the new shift speed tweak. I think I will try 50% first up. Cheers...
  8. Looks like a rather determined effort to get some swirl going to improved combustion Cheers...
  9. jon dee


    Fretting corrosion will produce "powdered rust" in a dry environment. In a wet or oily environment it will make rust coloured mud. However for fretting corrosion to occur in that tapped hole the bolt would have had to be loose enough to allow some small relative motion between the male and female threads. Like loose enough that the load would come off the thread after a combustion stroke and then and then be re-applied with the next combustion stroke. Seems unlikely though as I would have expected the head gasket to have blown if the head was lifting that much. Try finger threading a head bolt into several of those tapped holes and see if the dry one feels a bit looser than the others. Cheers...
  10. With this upgrade will my manual mode be faster than this guy jamming gears ? 1985 Ford LTD 302.mp4 Not bad for an old 5.0 litre N.A. with a manual gearbox Runs 6-1/2 seconds and 103 mph in the 1/8 mile... sounds mean !!!! Cheers...
  11. That's not a crack... THIS is a CRACK !!! Understood to be from a 328xi on runflats. I'm lead to believe that when something like this happens, runflats may actually hold the wheel together for long enough to get the vehicle off the road to safety. But I sure wouldn't want to be the one testing the truth of that conjecture at 100kph Cheers...
  12. That's how it appears to be working. I'm reasonably familiar with how forums handle posts, but I don't recall ever coming across one that didn't go to the latest post when using the link in the right hand column. Yes, clicking on the forum heading does give the option of selecting which page you wish to open as is usual. And remembering the last post read and going there is a nice feature once you realise what is going on. So all good... I've been schooled Cheers...
  13. Desktop PC... go to forums index page and click on the latest topic posting showing in the right hand column. Never used to have this issue but now it happens a lot. Today it opened the first post on the second page of a 2-page thread. Cheers...
  14. Yes... the 296 wheels fitted to the Z4 were the subject of a successful class action in the USA whereby BMW agreed to replace or reimburse owners who had wheels fail during the warranty period. It doesn't take much searching on the internet to find that there are many forum threads detailing the problems that countless BMW owners have had with cracked wheels. It is not just the Z4... without digging deep I found that 6-series, 3-series and 1-series forums have all reported problems... primarily with 19" wheels, but also to a lesser extent with 20" and 18" wheels. Now before we all change to 16" wheels and 60-series tyres to alleviate anxiety and paranoia, it has to be said that in the normal course of events many wheels and tyres will be damaged from hitting potholes, kerbs and objects lying in the roadway. Some drivers will then complain that the wheel "cracked" when it should not have, and maybe that would have been true in the days of smaller wheels and taller tyres. But now that the fashion is for wide, tall wheels and short tyre sidewalls, the inevitable result is a wheel/tyre combination that is more easily damaged by seemingly minor impacts. The use of runflats will be a factor as well. As can be expected, BMW will try and defend itself from spurious claims of "defective wheels" by turning down claims where there is evidence of mechanical damage. However, when there are thousands of owners all reporting the same type of failure within the warranty period, and there is no evidence of contributing mechanical damage, it is reasonable to infer that there is a wheel design or construction flaw to blame. Not all owners have problems, and not all wheel designs have problems. And neither is cracking of 19" and larger wheels confined to BMW... almost all vehicle manufacturers have the same problem to some extent. I think that any time a tyre on your vehicle starts loosing air and the cause is not obvious, the wheel should be checked for cracking. And when getting new tyres fitted the tyre shop should be asked to carefully check each wheel for hairline cracks, especially on the inner edge of the wheel. That should keep you safe. Cheers...
  15. From what I have read that would seem to be the correct. In a lot of cases small cracks are only picked up when the wheel is off the car and the tyre is removed for a puncture repair or replacement. That provides an opportunity to inspect the bead seating area for hairline cracks that would cause a slow leak. Larger cracks are usually the result of an obvious impact that deforms the rim, damages the tyre, and may even break pieces out of the rim. Picture of a crack in a 19" type 296 wheel from a Z4. This type of crack is often found on the inside lip and therefore very difficult to spot while the wheel is on the car. The likely cause is fatigue cracking due to deflection of the inner rim as there is little support from the spokes. Low profile runflat tyres are suspected of contributing to this type of cracking because of their stiffer sidewalls. Hairline cracks should not be ignored as they will continue to propagate with use. Small hairline cracks may be repairable but larger open cracks will usually be considered not repairable... depends on who you ask and what repair facilities they have. Cheers...
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