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jon dee

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jon dee last won the day on September 8 2021

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About jon dee

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    2nd Gear

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  • Name
    John D
  • Location
  • Car
    2008 335i Msport Coupe
  • Mods List
    MHD Stage 1+ ver.9 beta; XHP Stage 3
  • Car 2
    Mitsi Colt Plus Ralliart

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  • Interests
    Cars, dirt bikes, adventure riding, reggae, blues, hill walking, old buildings, analog dials :)

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  1. Could be.... I know less than nothing about X5's of any species. Th web page from which I obtained that wisdom is labeled as Vacuum pump with tubes BMW X5 3.0sd E70 SAV Europe M57N2. But if the 40 in you model code means 4 litres then you probably do have a different engine. Cheers... Oops... my bad, I didn't read your reply correctly. I haven't memorised all the engine codes yet
  2. This part 11 66 7 791 232 appears to fit if your vehicle is one of these... BMW X5 (E70) (Year of Construction 02.2007 - 03.2010, 211 - 286 PS, Diesel) 3.0 d, Year of Construction 02.2007 - 09.2008, 2993 ccm, 211 PS, 3.0 sd, Year of Construction 10.2007 - 03.2010, 2993 ccm, 286 PS. And the pump mounts to the end of a camshaft one end of the head Cheers...
  3. Was looking at this... https://www.nomaallim.com/brake-vacuum-pump-maintenance.html as the pump in the article appears to be similar to the type of pump used by BMW on many engines. Don't know if it applies to your E70 though. However, if it is this style of pump there does not seem to be any possibility of the vane sticking as both ends are constantly in contact with the wall as it rotates. The tips of the vane have seals, so the possibility of seal wear exists. An alternative hypothesis for your issue would be a vacuum leak in the booster. If the check valve is good the booster should still be holding some vacuum after the vehicle has been sitting. Do you get the hard pedal after you have driven enough to get normal braking back and then shut the engine off for a few minutes ? Or do you get normal pedal when re-starting ? Cheers...
  4. What I am suspecting is that you have a high resistance connection that is causing the starting circuit voltage to drop. The usual culprit is a loose or corroded terminal or ground connection. WD40 won't help... as a minimum you need to loosen the connection just enough that you can twist them by hand before tightening again... that will be enough to break the corrosion layer. Longer term it is better to break the connections and remove any corrosion by wire brushing or sanding so that you can obtain a solid bare metal connection to ground. If you are handy with a multimeter, you can test the resistance of your connections providing one end of the cable is isolated. Cheers... PS: If your battery is dodgy, then that can cause much the same issues... one good start and then difficulty with subsequent starts. If the battery is borked it will take a surface charge (takes maybe 15-20 minutes to show full), but if the battery is good it should take 8 hours or more to fully charge from flat. Got another known good battery you can try ?
  5. Might help if you mentioned the range of rim widths and offsets that you would consider suitable. Cheers...
  6. If by "failed to crank" you mean that the starter did not attempt to turn the engine over, then it is unlikely to be a crank sensor issue. I'd suggest starting off by loosening each battery terminal clamp, wriggling it slightly to break any corrosion buildup, and then tightening them again. If the battery is grounded to the chassis (I'm not familiar with the 728i) do the same thing with the ground connection. Likewise there is probably a starter motor to chassis ground strap that you can check. Cheers...
  7. If rear tyre wear is killing you, perhaps you could consider upgrading to a solid rear axle ? Cheers...
  8. I think you would be fairly safe if you copied one of these.... Cheers...
  9. I would humbly suggest that the comma between "3 Series" and "M3" indicates that the exhaust flap app will work with both the post 2005 3 Series cars and the M3. Cheers...
  10. What you end up with ^^^^ when you can't decide what style of bike you want to build Reminds me of this Lamborghini... Cheers...
  11. jon dee

    Quick rant thread.

    That's a routine fix for bleeding tar... spread fresh chip over the top (usually a smaller grade) and let the traffic roll it into the voids. If the contractor uses normal size roading chip, that adds the extra excitement of flying stones as kiwi drivers are way too staunch to heed the "30kph Fresh seal" warning signs. Some cars will not slow down and at 100kph leave a rooster tail of flying chips behind. All part of the great kiwi road trip in summer Cheers...
  12. Good work... trolled them on the first run and destroyed them on the second Cheers...
  13. Pretty sure I checked that when I bought the spacesaver... but... you know... paranoia So I went and had another look and yes, I can use the factory wheel bolts to attach the spare. Bolt length is also OK as the spare is a BMW factory item and when fitted the bolts have the same engagement in the hub as with a factory mag (as you might expect with a factory spare ) Wheel I bought is size 125/80-17 which is the BMW recommended size for the 335i Msport on factory 18" wheels and using factory recommended tyre sizes. Cheers...
  14. I don't have runflats and to begin with I carried a battery powered pump and a can of miracle puncture fixing goop. But I was never really happy about relying on that, so I hunted down a spacesaver spare plus a jack and wheel brace. The spare rides in the boot with a couple of ratchet tiedowns holding it secure. Takes up a lot of room but I don't ever carry much in the coupe so no problem. Cheers...
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