328i wont start - diag scan required without starting

[Trigga 2]

Euro m52b28, been running strongly, slightly down on power under 3k but does boogie after that

Had been having a slightly 'strange' fluctuating idle as of late every now and again - on startup upto 2k then back down to 700rpm, sometimes hunting for idle

Hadnt driven her for a day or so because of lockdown

Cranked her and she went to start but spluttered out

Wouldnt start on a few short tries - just cranking not firing

Got her running - rotary idle (lumpy af) and slight fog out the exhaust pipe

Sounded like she had no oil - noisy from the motor side - definitely has oil

Cut it off

Try to start her again nothing - worried at this point about damaging by keeping running/trying to start

Have removed and replaced CCV as was absolutely sludged - new one from pelican parts fitted tightly

Removed and cleaned ICV - spins nicely and refitted tightly

Doesnt seem to be any vacuum leaks that are visible to the eye - potential smoke test to follow

About to replace plugs as when pulled they were thick BLACK on the ends and slightly burnt around the plug housing - no idea when last done (at least not for 30k kms)

At this stage once the plugs are in looking to give her a crank and see if we can get some joy

Wondering if worth a diagnostic scan to avoid fouling the plugs/ruling out other issues first

Leads me to my question:

- Which scanner can be used when car not started?

Happy to buy one if but I'm wanting to avoid buying a cheap knock off scanner - options BavTech / BMW 1.4.0 - others?

Awkward to get the car to an auto sparky 1: in lockdown 2: wont start so cant drive

Any auto sparkys in Auckland want to do a lockdown scan jobbie?

[M3AN 4016]

Yes, you need to read the code. Any scanner will be able to do that with the ignition set to "on" even if the engine's not actually started.

I'm not the right one to recommend a scanner because I use the BMW software on a laptop.

Your symptoms were similar to mine in my M52 and mine was a cam position sensor failing.

 

 

[Trigga 2]

Cheers. Ive got lots of laptops from new to old. Otherwise I can run a VM where possible.

Have you 'sucessfully' diagnosed and repaired issues with a specific program you can suggest? Many of the softwares read incorrect codes.

Cam sensor was replaced a year ago, have pulled crank sensor today and all the wiring insulation is toast just like the cam sensor was (was throwing CEL).

Going to replace that.

[M3AN 4016]

Yeah, the two pieces of software you need are INPA and DIS (actually "EasyDIS" for copies out in the wild). INPA runs natively on Windows, DIS runs in a VM. You also need an ADS cable (search for TinyADS). You'll need a laptop with a genuine RS-232 serial port or a docking station/port replicator with one, a USB adaptor will not work. Win 10 x86/x64 is fine.

 

[polley 916]

For diagnostics INPA and a USB to ODB2 adaptor is fine. You can download Mikes Easy BMW tools, it comes with INPA.

You'll most likely need the round port to ODB2 adaptor as well.

 

However, really common for Crank and cam sensors on these to fail if they are original. The insulation on the wiring is complete sh*t. For the crank and cam sensor plugs, pull the boot back off the plug and inspect the insulation. If they are original sensors you will probably find it has completely fallen to bits.

[Trigga 2]

Yeah cheers as above it’s toast just looking for a reliable source for replacement sensor during lockdown

[Trigga 2]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/264186362008

[M3AN 4016]

Read through here too: https://www.bimmergeeks.net/

Standard tools and a TinyADS adaptor... I disagree that USB is suitable.

 

[polley 916]

3 hours ago, M3AN said:

Read through here too: https://www.bimmergeeks.net/

Standard tools and a TinyADS adaptor... I disagree that USB is suitable.

 

You dont need ADS for M52 engine. I'd agree for older things yes. 

 

I've used USB for diagnostics and flashing / tuning M52 engines for years on multiple different laptops and USB cables. If you want to live in the dark ages then so be it, continue using ADS lol.

[polley 916]

15 hours ago, Trigga said:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/264186362008

That's expensive. I just bought some for around $25 USD. They just arrived today actually. 

[M3AN 4016]

There are many modules in the e36 that only work via ADS and even more than can only report shadow codes over ADS.

You can insist what you like @polley but the rest of the world that have tried have all reached the same conclusion. The debate was finished over a decade ago.

[KwS 2425]

I concur with Dave, ADS and a hardware serial port is required for most modules on any E36 I have had the displeasure of working with. I even had to buy a specific crappy old Dell laptop just to use EasyDIS with a hardware port.

Its a pretty well documented "feature".

Edited April 8, 2020 by KwS

[polley 916]

Yes I agree, if you want to access other modules in the car it is required. However he is looking to diagnose his engine, and ADS is not required for M52. If he was asking to diagnose his ABS pump or whatever then yes I would agree.

 

And for what it's worth..  you can still buy modern laptops with com ports if you want to go that way. You can pick up an off lease i5  or i7 hp pro book/elite book for under $500 from pbtech, these usually have com ports.

Edited April 8, 2020 by polley

[NZ00Z3 187]

For a modern twist on ADS, check out the Foxwell NT530 scanner with BMW software.  It talks ADS/OBD1 and OBD11, so can talk to the E36 and E30 modules.

http://www.foxwelltool.com/wholesale/foxwell-nt530-bmw-software-pre-loaded-with-20-pin-connector.html

[Trigga 2]

19 hours ago, polley said:

That's expensive. I just bought some for around $25 USD. They just arrived today actually. 

Where from and what brand? I don’t feel like going in circles with afterwards sensors again - put in a non oem cam sensor which still gave fault, replaced with oem and fault gone.

Got one you want to sell me to try?

Edited April 8, 2020 by Trigga

[Trigga 2]

Replaced crank sensor with oem unit from eBay/Lithuania car runs great now, definitely helped changing the plugs and CCV too, much more responsive than before. SHITLOAD of white smoke on first start and when let off loud pedal on revs after first start, but now zero smoke after a couple of nice drives down mway etc

The way it runs now reminds me of why I like the Beamer i6 so much haha.

What else is ideal for replacement/cleaning at 200kms? Cooling system is getting overhaul in next month or two with metal tstat housing, new tstat and new coolant, probably upgrade expansion tank to alloy also

Edited April 22, 2020 by Trigga