jon dee 500 Report post Posted January 4, 2021 But wait.... there's more 😀 Went to remove the rear caliper pins (2008 e92 335i) and tried a 6mm Allen key... too small. So yeah, must be an 8mm but that's too big... WTF ?? Who in their right mind would spec a 7mm Allen ?? I have multiple sets of Allens but none include a 7mm. So hunted down a couple of places that would sell a single 7mm Allen but they are not open until tomorrow. Decided to do a bit of internet browsing to see if there are any other little tricks I should know about changing rotors and pads. An informal survey of several dozen Utube DIY videos and forum posts by people who one might expect to know what's up... and what do I find ?? Of the ones that actually reference the tool about 80% spec it as 7mm Allen and 20% spec it as T45 Torx. Now I happen to have a set of 1/2" drive Torx sockets, so I thought I would take a closer look. After all, come to think of it, Torx fasteners are all over this car, so why would BM use Allens for the pins ?? Not the easiest place to get a good look or even take a pic... below is the best I could do. But a T45 fits snug, and the end of the pin actually looks like the corners are shaped to fit a Torx key, so I'm ready to give it a heave. But first it would be great if someone could confirm beyond doubt that T45 is correct. Cheers... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jon dee 500 Report post Posted January 4, 2021 (edited) Just as well I asked then 😀 I shall purchase a 7mm hex socket and a flex head ratchet so I can actually get at the top pin. While I am in the store should I also be looking for a 9mm hex socket for the front calipers (as I have seen suggested) or will the fronts use the 7mm same at the rear ?? Cheers... PS: On closer examination it looks like there is a pretty good optical illusion created when the light hits the conical chamfer on the end intersecting with the hexagonal tube... makes it look like the sides of the hexagon are curved. Had me confused 😕 Edited January 4, 2021 by jon dee Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eagle 1662 Report post Posted January 4, 2021 As above, ATE use 7mm on all calipers regardless of brand. Most hex socket rails will incl a 7mm. You can a 3\8" hex socket rail for cheap which you give you all the common sizes - https://mytools.co.nz/products/toptul-38-drive-inhex-bit-socket-rail-set Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jon dee 500 Report post Posted January 4, 2021 Good call... no reason why I need 1/2" drive for the slider pins, and if I can swing a 3/8" ratchet under the guard I can put off buying a flex head 😀 Only issue is I am halfway into the job, so if it looks like the 3/8" will work I will see if I can grab a single 7mm hex socket locally in the morning. Otherwise I will have to find something else to do for a couple of days while I wait for the courier. Cheers... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jon dee 500 Report post Posted January 7, 2021 (edited) Got the rear shocks, new rotors and pads installed OK... even got the service latch thing under the hand brake lever engaged Now I need to get it disengaged and wonder if there is any more to than setting the blade of a screwdriver against the latch and giving the handle a short sharp rap with a block of wood ?? Can't see any other way of doing it but happy to take advice. EDIT: Two screwdrivers, one across the other for a bit of leverage, and done. So easy I didn't even know it was unlatched until I took a closer look !!! Cheers... Edited January 8, 2021 by jon dee Got it sussed :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jon dee 500 Report post Posted February 7, 2021 New B3 front struts, strut mounts, pads, rotors and wear sensor all installed. Front pads were well worn and the sensor activated which explains the difficulty I had getting the brake service light to reset All the old dampers were still functioning but showing the effects of 90,000 km of use. Compared to the new units compression force was down to about 50% and gas pressure was also a lot lower. Pretty happy with the results of the refresh. The new dampers have softened how smaller road surface imperfections transmit to the vehicle and reduced the noise that was previously associated with those smaller impacts (road repairs, patches, joins in the seal etc). When combined with some decent tyres (RE003's) the ride is now quieter and more supple. Bumps are still felt but the sharpness is gone from the impacts. I imagine that this is how the car would have felt when it left the factory. Cheers... 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jon dee 500 Report post Posted February 17, 2021 (edited) Been out a few times in the car and around my "test track". This is a backroads circuit that has enough bumps and dips to make sure the new shocks and bushings are settled And I made some measurements today to see what (if any) difference the new shocks have made to the ride height. The chart below compares the factory "normal position" which is measured with around 140kg of added weights on the front seats and a full tank of gas, to my empty car with half a tank of gas before and after the new shocks were fitted. The figures show that the front right has been the big winner, gaining 10mm in height. I don't know if that is due to some difference in the way the car was sitting when I first measured it, or if it really did jump 10mm. Otherwise there has been little or no change. The fact that I am fractionally higher than the "normal" height is probably down to not having any weights to put in the car. Oh, and I have read (on various US forums) that it is not unusual for the front left ride height to be a little higher than the front right. Allegedly this is to compensate for the drivers weight, and in LHD countries this idea could have some credence. But if this were true, then I would expect a vehicle manufactured for a RHD market to be higher on the right hand side. So... internet myth ??? I haven't installed the M3 front LCA kit yet as I want to get used to my new "limo" ride so that I can have a better base for judging the changes due to the M3 bits. Anyone experienced more even wear on the fronts after installing M3 arms ? Cheers... Edited February 17, 2021 by jon dee Tea break :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Herbmiester 923 Report post Posted February 18, 2021 Just the opposite I experience less wear on the outside edges due to better geometry. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jon dee 500 Report post Posted April 21, 2021 Finally got round to fitting the M3 lower control arms. Didn't do the upper arms as it seems that they don't really change the dynamics at all, just provide an upgrade for the oil lubricated inner bush. I'll leave those until I either need them (currently not leaking) or get bored Went for a lap over my test track this afternoon, and as there was hardly any other traffic on the road I could push on in a spirited manner. In layman's terms what I noticed was that the feeling of imminent understeer has gone. Previously, going into a tightish left hand corner with a bit of speed on, I felt that the car was waiting for a chance to get into the other lane. Likewise, when turning right it seemed ready to head for the fence if I wasn't paying enough attention. Now, with the lower arms installed, even though the camber change is minimal, I no longer live in fear of understeer when going into corners at a few more kph than would be considered prudent . Driving is more enjoyable when you know that your car has the handling to keep you safe on the road when having fun . So big thanks to to you Herb for advising me to get the M3 LCA's 👍 Cheers... 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SmackJackTheCrackerMan 54 Report post Posted April 21, 2021 21 minutes ago, jon dee said: Finally got round to fitting the M3 lower control arms. Didn't do the upper arms as it seems that they don't really change the dynamics at all, just provide an upgrade for the oil lubricated inner bush. I'll leave those until I either need them (currently not leaking) or get bored Went for a lap over my test track this afternoon, and as there was hardly any other traffic on the road I could push on in a spirited manner. In layman's terms what I noticed was that the feeling of imminent understeer has gone. Previously, going into a tightish left hand corner with a bit of speed on, I felt that the car was waiting for a chance to get into the other lane. Likewise, when turning right it seemed ready to head for the fence if I wasn't paying enough attention. Now, with the lower arms installed, even though the camber change is minimal, I no longer live in fear of understeer when going into corners at a few more kph than would be considered prudent . Driving is more enjoyable when you know that your car has the handling to keep you safe on the road when having fun . So big thanks to to you Herb for advising me to get the M3 LCA's 👍 Cheers... Hey Jon, Did you change to the M3 Tension arms? I’ve just installed mine as well as the M3 LCA and I can visually see the negative camber in the front. (I’m yet to have an alignment so hopefully some of that will be removed). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jon dee 500 Report post Posted April 21, 2021 I haven't installed the tension arms at this stage. The tension arms (upper control arms) don't change the suspension geometry as I understand it, as in they are the same length as the OEM arms. So it is the lower arms that give you the extra camber and a little bit of "stance" They also give you a dangerous amount of toe in until you get the wheels aligned. The car will be unpleasant to drive and your front tires will have excessive wear. As I live a long ways from an alignment shop I elected to do my own alignment using the "string method". Took a lot of messing around to get it about right, but plenty good enough for driving until I get a chance to have a proper alignment done. And yeah... car looks better now that there is a bit of front camber to go with the rear wheel camber. Cheers... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Herbmiester 923 Report post Posted April 21, 2021 13 hours ago, jon dee said: Finally got round to fitting the M3 lower control arms. Didn't do the upper arms as it seems that they don't really change the dynamics at all, just provide an upgrade for the oil lubricated inner bush. I'll leave those until I either need them (currently not leaking) or get bored Went for a lap over my test track this afternoon, and as there was hardly any other traffic on the road I could push on in a spirited manner. In layman's terms what I noticed was that the feeling of imminent understeer has gone. Previously, going into a tightish left hand corner with a bit of speed on, I felt that the car was waiting for a chance to get into the other lane. Likewise, when turning right it seemed ready to head for the fence if I wasn't paying enough attention. Now, with the lower arms installed, even though the camber change is minimal, I no longer live in fear of understeer when going into corners at a few more kph than would be considered prudent . Driving is more enjoyable when you know that your car has the handling to keep you safe on the road when having fun . So big thanks to to you Herb for advising me to get the M3 LCA's 👍 Cheers... Glad you did it, it makes a very good chassis excellent. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
