gofaster 99 Report post Posted December 21, 2020 (edited) Hi. Got a few jobs lined up for the 130i, need some advice on what order to do them, and any gotcha's. Parts in stock and ready to fit: Rocker cover gasket kit incl new bolts Sump gasket and new bolts Thermostat, Water pump and screws Drive belt, tensioner, idler Oil filter and Oil cooler gaskets 5L antifreeze Got some spark plugs on order Any suggestions on what to use to stick the outsides of padding back up to underside of bonnet - both sides flop down like elephants ears 🙂 Have some Youtube vids already bookmarked, but figure you guys/girls have done this before so any tips appreciated as I have only tackled basic jobs before. (looking at Jacko's huge rebuild thread I may not have specific tools like the engine brace that spans the guards when the lower cross member is dropped). Edited December 21, 2020 by gofaster Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2152 Report post Posted December 21, 2020 (edited) Id start at the top end. Remove the scuttle panel with the interior air filter (and the little U shaped seal that covers the seam and gets grotty) and then give the thing a good degrease and water blast, including down the front of engine. Do the rocker cover gasket and oil cooler gaskets (remember to back off the valvetronic motor before undoing it) - lots of DIYs on these. Serpentine belt, tensioner, idler - FCP euro etc have a video At this point you could put it back together and drive around if wanted (id be flushing and replacing the coolant as well), its going to be much happier and the other bits can be done later, but Drop subframe (the braces are cheap, think mine was $80, you're welcome to borrow it if made logistical sense) Do waterpump and thermostat, lots of room with subframe loose (can do it perfectly fine with subframe in as well - you could do this and bleeding after serpentine above as well) Sump gasket, this is fiddly, its bit like wrestling an octopus with the subframe still installed but loose. I would recommend using some gasket sealant on it, others wont. There is a fitting from the CCV system into the sump on LH side of engine that you will swear at, make sure it goes back on though. Put it all back together and then bang in the blue BMW coolant and run through the bleeding procedure Enjoy Edited December 21, 2020 by Jacko Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gofaster 99 Report post Posted December 21, 2020 Thanks Chris, appreciate your advice Might leave the sump gasket for next long break. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3AN 4016 Report post Posted December 22, 2020 I suspect the inside DISA valve (is that what's it's called?) might be easier to access if the oil filter housing and cooler are off the car, reaching in under the intake runners... I stand to be corrected though! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gofaster 99 Report post Posted December 22, 2020 Hi Dave. Do I need to replace the inside DISA valve (whatever that is) tks, John. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3AN 4016 Report post Posted December 22, 2020 33 minutes ago, gofaster said: Hi Dave. Do I need to replace the inside DISA valve (whatever that is) tks, John. This is a good read with pics: https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=36349 They don't necessarily need replacing but they're apparently worth checking and the inside one is the more difficult one to get to, if it's easy to check with the oil filter housing out of the way I'd do it then. See here as well: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1491080 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gofaster 99 Report post Posted January 5, 2021 Just completed the following: Rocker cover gasket kit incl new bolts Drive belt, tensioner, idler Oil filter and Oil cooler gaskets 5L antifreeze Decided to leave the Sump gasket, Thermostat and Water pump for now as no apparent issues. Also forgot about the DISA check until too late! From a "noobie" experience, I found it all quite daunting, the on-line videos were helpful and some unhelpful Videos dont tell you how to undo all the clips (some were obvious, others mind-numbing) and how much wiring to remove so there was enough access to lift the rocker cover off. In the end I found George Austers guide the most helpful (he has other guides, also used his CDV delete one with success!) 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eagle 1661 Report post Posted January 6, 2021 Yeah they are far from nice engines to work on, but being in a smaller 1 series body certainly makes things harder than the 5 or 7 series. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2152 Report post Posted January 6, 2021 (edited) Nice one, be careful of that guys advice. He asks a question on facebook, gets an answer, and then makes a video out of it claiming to be an A grade mechanic the next day. His mate is the "BMW doctor" on youtube, who is a raging halfwit... Edited January 6, 2021 by Jacko 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
