F20 116i /118i / 120i reliability

[qube 3570]

It should be cross compatible with f30 at least. The newer wheel is much nicer but are way more expensive. Probably around $800. 
 

its a shame because i would recommend a fake alcantara wrap but being msport it will make it way too fat. It was a perfect “upgrade” on my sports model with the thinner wheel. 
 

yes engine is noisy but only from outside and especially with bonnet up. Inside it should be all good. 
 

radio conversion should be cheap. Gps maybe a bit more. Should manage okay with google maps and spotify via bluetooth?

try negotiate the price to account for rotos and pads at least and get it. Service history etc is the big one and if mechanically its sound then it will be the best one to get.  

[sobanoodle 45]

Messaged Brent on fb already. He has an LCI with a popped airbag for $450. Will check if there's anything else tomorrow.

[M3AN 4016]

7 minutes ago, sobanoodle said:

Messaged Brent on fb already. He has an LCI with a popped airbag for $450. Will check if there's anything else tomorrow.

lol - maybe my $150 (sans airbag and slipring) was a little optimistic 😂 but I think $450 is a bit rich for something that will otherwise sit on a shelf collecting dust and decreasing in value, they're hardly in high demand. Let's say $250. 😁

Regardless, good luck with your search and imminent purchase... as long as you realise that your wife might be so happy that you end up with another kid. 😉

[sobanoodle 45]

1 minute ago, M3AN said:

as long as you realise that your wife might be so happy that you end up with another kid. 😉

Fark no do not see myself driving a people mover any time soon

[Eisenfaust 3]

For the uninitiated, what is "comfort access"?

[NZ BMW 368]

14 minutes ago, Eisenfaust said:

For the uninitiated, what is "comfort access"?

https://www.bmwblog.com/2019/11/08/video-comfort-access-for-a-convenient-way-to-get-in-and-out-of-your-bmw/

You just keep the fob in your pocket to enter the vehicle. 

[sobanoodle 45]

I reckon I've looked at enough 1ers for now... Started with 116i, then moved onto 120i (you get electric seats and comfort access in most cases).

 

Now I'm looking at 3ers... Heaps of sedans, far less wagons. Looked at a couple of 100k-ish mileage 320D. One's mint inside and out but I noticed some whining when coasting/decelerating especially in Sport mode at higher revs (3,000-4000rpm) then it seems to disappear. Sort of comes from passenger side footwell area. Hardly noticeable in Comfort mode. Has anyone experienced something similar or knows what it might be? 

The other one I drove with a similar mileage does not have it as pronounced, apparently might be related to AC compressor or generator. 

The first one also has the following error when scanned with Carly: 285200 - Oxygen sensor after catalytic converter, virtual ground, signal: Open

Dealer doesn't seem to think it's an issue as there's no official check engine light 😊

Comes back after a reset and a bit of a drive.  Wasn't detected at the initial scan and only appeared after a bit of a hoon around the block aka a test drive. I suspect the car might've been sitting at the yard for a while, could it be a reason for the sensor to crap itself? 

I'm guessing the post cat oxygen sensor needs to be replaced and it shouldn't be as pricey as the pre-cat one. How much do they normally go for if anyone knows?

Who would be good around Penrose area to have a quick look at it? Apart from eurosurgeon.

I reckon in terms of depreciation, usability and specs f30/31 diesel might be a better option than F20. M-Pack ones look rather juicy too. 

 

[qube 3570]

F30/31 diesels are great both 320d and 330/335d. Dont see them depreciating much from what ive seen also because there arent many. Totally different price to the 1 series though. Almost 10k more for a 4pot and more for a 6.

where do you draw the line? Might as well get a 535d. Or an x5 m50d.. 😂

[sobanoodle 45]

Nah definitely not going beyond 320D. 

[NZ BMW 368]

Watch the front suspension on the F30. I am pretty convinced this week that I’ve killed my sway bar links which I thought was pretty early, with just about 100km on the clock. I suspect it’s the M-Sport suspension as I’ve done 30ks of what I would call mainly city or motorway driving... and let’s not forget my raging about the cost of the “big blues”. 😅

Mines also had a recall or the EGR actioned when in for service so might want to keep some of the emissions stuff in the back of your mind being a diesel.

 Mines been nearly flawless touch wood.

[balancerider 757]

Concur with @NZ BMW on the DEF equipped ones ('BluePerformance') with the second filler beneath the fuel cap - will be horrendous to sort when they have an issue - They are a recipe for trouble. F3x is a great chassis otherwise though.

[sobanoodle 45]

13 minutes ago, balancerider said:

Concur with @NZ BMW on the DEF equipped ones ('BluePerformance') with the second filler beneath the fuel cap - will be horrendous to sort when they have an issue - They are a recipe for trouble.

Doesn't have DEF/AdBlue although it does have a BluePerformance sticker on the tailgate which freaked me out at the start...

 

[NZ BMW 368]

41 minutes ago, sobanoodle said:

Doesn't have DEF/AdBlue although it does have a BluePerformance sticker on the tailgate which freaked me out at the start...

 

My comments are more in general that I think some of them just get clogged up from too much city driving. I also don’t believe that my EGR was actually malfunctioning, just they had a recall on it. 

[M3AN 4016]

10 hours ago, sobanoodle said:

...

The first one also has the following error when scanned with Carly: 285200 - Oxygen sensor after catalytic converter, virtual ground, signal: Open

Dealer doesn't seem to think it's an issue as there's no official check engine light 😊

Comes back after a reset and a bit of a drive.  Wasn't detected at the initial scan and only appeared after a bit of a hoon around the block aka a test drive. I suspect the car might've been sitting at the yard for a while, could it be a reason for the sensor to crap itself? 

...

Regardless of the reason if it faults after clearing it need to be replaced, get them to do it before purchase if you go with that car. A Bosch O2 sensor can be as little as $150, as much as $350 and the post cat ones can be a bitch to replace (depending on exhaust configuration).

Edited January 12, 2021 by M3AN

[sobanoodle 45]

Paid a deposit on a 2013 320D M-Sport touring. Eurosurgeon had a look at it today and couldn't find much more than a faulty sensor. Dealer is getting the sensor sorted and all goes well I'll be picking her up on Friday. 

Now I just need to do a bit of a research on how to convert NBT from JDM to ECE spec and load NZ maps. Radio conversion is easy. A bit of coding to do too to remove all unnecessary warnings, add DRL, folding mirrors and so on. 

Thank you all for your input. 

[balancerider 757]

@sobanoodle pics once you collect please!

[sobanoodle 45]

On 1/14/2021 at 10:00 AM, balancerider said:

@sobanoodle pics once you collect please!

Will do some later.

 

Has anyone got a copy of Australia/ New Zealand Next maps by a chance? 2020 or even better 2021 which are out already. 

Window tinting place recommendations in Auckland, who's the best in terms of price/quality? North Shore is preferred. The car got no factory tints at all, gets pretty hot and I certainly hate to be in a fish bowl... 

Coded NBT and Kombi from Japan to ECE so the radio and other bits are converted to NZ. How just need to get hold of the maps to finish the conversion. Lots of other codings bits done here and there to make the car more user friendly:

- DRL activated

- removed I-drive and camera warnings, seatbelt warnings etc

- added folding mirrors on lock/unlock

-tailgate can be opened and closed with the cabin button, one touch close operation with remote 

- M-sport welcome screens for I-drive and Kombi and a few other things

Scored an original boot carpet/mat with a bumper protector extension for $50, happy days

 

[NZ BMW 368]

I used A1 tinting to do my front windows. I’ll be honest, it’s the first time I’ve had a car to tinted but I am happy with it. He’s mobile and came to my house. 

The guy is a bit of an acquired taste “while I am working on your car it’s my car!” 😆 but his work seemed good to me and he turned up on time and used 3M tint which was good. 

If you Google you can see his reviews and contact details. 

 

Edited January 18, 2021 by NZ BMW

[sobanoodle 45]

Productive day today.

NBT is fully converted to ECE/NZ - radio frequency extended, Australia and New Zealand 2021 Next Maps are installed. 

Overall, much easier and less involving conversion than what I did with CIC.  Maps can be sourced online for free, as well as FSC code generators  - had to fiddle with that one as it did not have an option for 2021 maps, just added is manually and  was able to generate a code.

The major issue was the rejected  A0 FSC (ECE/US maps) as the vehicle originally came with a A1 (Asia) FSC. $60 later and I have retrofit FSC package to activate A0, super easy

I might still flash NBT to be completely Euro spec but as of right now I cannot really be bothered.

To sum-up, in order to convert your Japanese NBT system/maps to New Zealand/ECE you need the following:

 - Remove options 807 and 852 form FA and replace with 810 and 853 (ECE spec, English)

 - VO-code NBT and Kombi with modified FA

 - Source Next maps (google)

 - Use Jaeger's FSC generator to generate activation code (google)

 - Source a FSC NBT retrofit pack to change the status of NBT's FSC A0 from rejected to accepted (google, costs US$40)

 - Upload maps to a freshly formatted usb stick and initiate map update, use previously generated FSC code

 

Just need to get it tinted now.

Also found a third party Japanese hardware installed in the car, suspect it is a TV that is triggered by holding the menu button or by just pressing the preset 1 button. 

Later tonight found two little switches hidden in the passenger foot well, one disables the system completely, and another one appears to flick between different modes. I first got excited and thought it was an MMI box/Carplay but not 😕  Might trace and rip it out one day. 

[sobanoodle 45]

Had the car fully tinted today at a very well-known establishment on the shore. Looked pretty good apart from the windows being rather dirty on the outside, and a few noticable streaks on the inside.

 

I've just cleaned the windows on the outside and noticed a fair few air bubbles that are caused by dust specs trapped underneath the film. Before I go back to them, is this normal and somewhat expected or say a few air bubbles are acceptable?  

[M3AN 4016]

Just now, sobanoodle said:

Had the car fully tinted today at a very well-known establishment on the shore. Looked pretty good apart from the windows being rather dirty on the outside, and a few noticable streaks on the inside.

I've just cleaned the windows on the outside and noticed a fair few air bubbles that are caused by dust specs trapped underneath the film. Before I go back to them, is this normal and somewhat expected or say a few air bubbles are acceptable?  

Bubbles are poor execution on plain glass although you will get some where any of those dots are around the edges of some windows (I don't know what they're for). They certainly should have washed the windows before application.

Things might settle over a couple of days but it might pay to give them a call and ask. Otherwise I'd take it back in.   

[qube 3570]

Ive done my own tints multiple times and when i do it at home dust specs are almost inevitable. I have also exclusively used FM7 at times when i cant be bothered and they have always done a perfect job. One time they messed up a couple which they found out themselves on the final inspection and asked if i was happy to wait for them to re apply it or i can come back another time since it already took a couple hours and would need another hour. 
 

if its in a super noticeable position or if it bothers you at least go back and talk to them. Dont settle for substandard service!

[sobanoodle 45]

3 minutes ago, M3AN said:

Bubbles are poor execution on plain glass although you will get some where any of those dots are around the edges of some windows (I don't know what they're for). They certainly should have washed the windows before application.

Things might settle over a couple of days but it might pay to give them a call and ask. Otherwise I'd take it back in.   

Yep noticed those edge ones in the workshop and was told it's ok-ish and most of it should go away. I somewhat expected them to return the car with clean windows, doesn't really take that long and from a customer's point of view would've gone a long way... 

[sobanoodle 45]

3 minutes ago, qube said:

Ive done my own tints multiple times and when i do it at home dust specs are almost inevitable. I have also exclusively used FM7 at times when i cant be bothered and they have always done a perfect job. One time they messed up a couple which they found out themselves on the final inspection and asked if i was happy to wait for them to re apply it or i can come back another time since it already took a couple hours and would need another hour. 
 

if its in a super noticeable position or if it bothers you at least go back and talk to them. Dont settle for substandard service!

I'll have another look tomorrow morning, but a few spots were right in the center. 

Somewhat annoying after paying $450, wonder if a Tesla or a brand new X5 they had in there at the same time ended up with a few bubbles too.. 

[qube 3570]

Thats pretty expensive.. i think i normally pay about $220. If i diy it costs me $60ish in film haha