Jimocles 0 Report post Posted January 8, 2007 Well, cheers to some cheap bastard in the cars past who epoxy'd up a connection instead of replacing a cheap part my engine got well and truly cooked (nowhere to pull over for 10kms) what are the ramifications of this?, I'm guessing (by the white smoke) a head gasket and plane as the bare minimum although there was no caramel in the oil but water must be getting in there. I'm not sure how hot it all got and fearing the worst. any suggestions appreciated Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
will 169 Report post Posted January 8, 2007 At best, a skim and new head gasket. It is possible for the water jacket to blow through to the cylinder via the gasket without getting into the oil, hence no milky sh*t under the filler cap or on the dipstick.. At worst, a very expensive engine rebuild as a severely overheated motor will fry things like the rings which will lose their tension, it will try to heat sieze scarring the bores and frying the ring lands and damaging pistons, can crack the head and harden all oil seals, also try to sieze the bearings if the oil got sufficiently hot and lost its viscosity etc etc.. I would suggest pulling the head, check the bores for signs of siezing. If there are signs of siezing, pull the motor and strip it and check bores, pistons, bearings etc. If the bores don't show signs of siezing, get the head crack tested (MUST!), if it passes, skim it and have ALL the valve stem seals, oil seals etc replaced in the head. At the same time check the cam bearing surfaces for scoring. Put a new head gasket and (hoping for the best that the rings havn't collapsed as a result of overheating), replace the head and run it.. (if they have you will get blue smoke under acceleration.) If you have a badly damaged motor, it will definitely be cheaper to source a good secondhand one. Hope it is just a head gasket..!! Will Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BM WORLD 1283 Report post Posted January 8, 2007 i have a m50 2l if needed . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TronSpec 0 Report post Posted January 8, 2007 i have a m50 2l if needed . Hahahaha What we were just talking about the other day aye Will and Graham Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SRBMW 6 Report post Posted January 8, 2007 Hey mate you will need to get the head hardness tested as its an alloy head and when they get hot they go soft sometimes and become worthless then if it passes this it will need to be pressure tested.Cracks can be repaired if they are in the right places but being a pain in the arse bmw I doubt it.Good luck mate!! best to buy a headset through realoem.com that will save you some bucks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jimocles 0 Report post Posted January 8, 2007 cheers for the advice, I'll keep you posted Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
will 169 Report post Posted January 9, 2007 Hahahaha What we were just talking about the other day aye Will and Graham aye.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jimocles 0 Report post Posted March 7, 2007 well about time for an update, I got the car back yesterday the mechanic is not 100% happy with it but I'm just testing it at the moment the head, has been planed and crack tested and all that good stuff, had a bit of a nightmare getting it running right though the crank sensors had melted, so replaced all of them. its running ok now, but Idles too high, and seems down on BHP, I would have thought a head plane would increase compression, giving perhaps more power as for the idle, its not particularly rough (though not smooth) but is not surging or anything like that, hooked it up to one of those electrowhatsits machines and no faults coming up as always suggestions appreciated Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hartage 0 Report post Posted March 7, 2007 Should be as smooth as before, if not then it may need to be put on a BMW diagnostic computer to tell that all sensors are connected correctly. that would alter idle speed. Not a cheap job!?! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jimocles 0 Report post Posted March 7, 2007 Not a cheap job at all, one of those things though, if you are going to go the new engine option you have to make the call from the start once i sent the head in for straightening, I was pretty much committed to that path, and as always the little things keep mounting up. on the plus side from having been driving a alfa 33 around, power steering and air conditioning should never be taken for granted, and the fact the e36 has an outstanding turning circle. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
m325i 709 Report post Posted March 8, 2007 Take it to turners quick! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
will 169 Report post Posted March 8, 2007 Have you measured compressions after this rebuild? Sounds like the motor got really hot, melting sensors takes some serious temp!! Collapsed rings are a distinct possibility after really overheating the motor. Things like air leaks into the inlet manifold etc from warped manifolds can also cause a lot of problems. I would get it onto a proper BMW diagnostic machine, I used to use a high end Allen diagnostic machine on a range of cars that came into my workshop, but it was never as good as a dedicated machine. Things to check are cylinder balance, leanness, compressions, timing etc. Will Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jimocles 0 Report post Posted March 8, 2007 Cheers for that Will, no blue smoke or anything like that under acceleration, so I think the rings should be ok(ish) I'm assuming page euro have the right gear, would rather not go to a dealership if it can be helped can anyone enlighten me on this? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kiwi535 538 Report post Posted March 8, 2007 (edited) dont forget jame that Shelleys aint the dealer anymore....ask them how much to "diagnose" only after talking to VJ.I dont recall seeing any fancy testing gear at pages but i spose they could keep it elsewhere.With new sensors is there a "settling in" period while the ECU relearns... Edited March 8, 2007 by kiwi535 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CaM 0 Report post Posted March 8, 2007 no. should be pretty much instantaneous. ecu's don't learn anyhting, except for initial startups Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jimocles 0 Report post Posted March 19, 2007 well the car is at Jeff Grays today, so I'll sit here with that sinking feeling fearing the worst for most of the day no doubt will keep you posted Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
