Should've got an m3

[huff3r 347]

Just an update after 700k's.

The clutch and flywheel setup rattles like a tractor at idle. Personally i'll be able to live with it. It is very good to have the upper revs going to the wheels(not just to clutch slip). Traffic driving is a bit frustrating but less then when it was first installed.

Brakes are great. Haven't given them much abuse yet though.

On an appearance update the front indicators are now orange. No photos because who really cares

Newest problem to add to the cars personality is the starter solenoid is acting up.

On a side note i've just started at wintec's motorsport course. So hopefully big changes to this project will be on there way - this is if i can decide what I want to do to it

Cage it

If they are still as awesome as they used to be it'll cost you the steel and the paint. The expertise comes in your course fees (I built mine for under $600 )

[thorburn 120]

That is one idea rattling around.

The wheels that were fixed up by Magmaster in Tauranga

[Apex Effects 3]

the dished ones came up mint from that picture. not sure on the black of the others but each to there own. as for tyres on a 8 inch 225/45r17 is a factory sizing so rock that unless ya in the market of stretched tires or anything. an depending on ya budget for tyres some toyo's would be good idea

[thorburn 120]

I'm happy with how they've turned out. Just need to polish up the last one. I think i'll end up regretting not paying to get it done.

Tyre wise i'm pretty set on some Bridgestone RE050's for the rc's. T1r's are next on the list. I'm still open to ideas though.

I'm not so big on the stretched look but i think i'll need to run a 215 on the style 19's to avoid rub.

Gave the brakes a bit of use over the weekend and i'm very happy with the setup so far.

I need to hurry up and get it onto the track

[Apex Effects 3]

re050s huh. Not a bad tyre. Tad over priced in my opinion. Where do the tires rub? rubbing can be fixed in other ways beside under sizing your tires its kinda just hiding the real reason for rubbing

[thorburn 120]

I haven't yet tried to fit them with a proper size tyre. 235's were a bit off. I will be rolling the rear and maybe giving it a slight pull if i have to. I don't want to be forced into running excessive camber in the back either.

Would i be right in guessing you'd recommend the T1R's? or is there something else in the Toyo line up that i've missed

[Lucan 196]

The Style 19's are SICK!!

I'm pretty sure I'm running the same spec'd wheels (17x8 +20...??) you won't need to do too much guard work to get them to fit with a bit of stretch. 235's will be too big.

Have you checked brake clearance? Will be close but a good guard roll and slight pull with get them under there...

I'm running 205/45's and they're not too stretched as in, the lip isn't exposed.. Pic for Ref:

I rub a little bit too but I'm a bit lower than you, for now.

[thorburn 120]

Cheers for that blackie. Have you had your guards rolled flat? and what sort of camber is on the back?from the looks of it, it seems quite conservative.

The style 19's and 5's are very much the same spec. They even share the same barrels

Brake clearance is fine for the standard brakes.

I don't think i'll be putting them on until I get the coilovers in

[Apex Effects 3]

I haven't yet tried to fit them with a proper size tyre. 235's were a bit off. I will be rolling the rear and maybe giving it a slight pull if i have to. I don't want to be forced into running excessive camber in the back either.

Would i be right in guessing you'd recommend the T1R's? or is there something else in the Toyo line up that i've missed

If its just guard clearance that is the issue with a bit of roll like lucan you should be right. an the camber does look conservative on his maybe -1.5 degrees?. those do look like some rather wide 205s tho. on a 8 inch wheel 215s of most of our range end up similar to that. all comes down to tire choice is what kinda stretching you will get. toyo have a few options there also other brands i could recomend depending on your style of driving.

[thorburn 120]

Got the xbrace on the other night. Initially I thought it made a huge difference. But i probably have to convince myself that after all the time i spent on making it fit.

Also got some toyo c1s tyres for the rc's in 225/45.

[thorburn 120]

Started on the rear end refresh.

Pulled the rear subframe. Only had problems with the front subframe studs and nuts. Got a bit frustrated with them and they will need to be replaced. Had the usual wrestle to get the subframe out. If i were to do this again I wouldn't drop it all out out as one.

Pulled apart the diff to have a look what is going on inside.

Now i'm wondering if I want to rebuild the lsd while i'm in there.

Unfortunately the local bmw dealership can not provide me with lsd parts.

I have seen the clutch plates on bimmerworld.com and i'm not overly impressed with the $75US each price tag. I'd maybe be a little more impressed if there was some more information on them.

I'm currently looking into using porsche parts. Or any other places I can get new clutch plates and dog ear plates.

Otherwise steelie gears can rebuild the lsd with 4 clutches for $400. Which sounds very cheap given the prices just for the clutches alone. All the other differential places I called about a rebuild told me to talk to bmw.

Anyone have any links or connections for any of these parts?

edit: good link for diff stuff http://www.ohiobimmers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3624

Further looking into it has made it clear i don't want to increase the preload by shimming or adding more clutches. I don't believe this will bugger all performance benefits in these zf differentials without changing the ramp angle. Current ramp angle is 45' on both sides.

If anyone can shed any further info on the topic i'd love to learn

Edited March 26, 2011 by bbs

[Forrest 35]

Pelican parts have LSD clutch plates for E30's so one would assume they have them for E36's

[thorburn 120]

From what i've read e30 lsd cases are the same as e36 lsd's. And I think there's an e30 one in there anyway.

For future reference the part number for clutch plates is 33141210626

So far NZ prices have been around $160 for each clutch plate.

Also have found bimmerworld's clutches are just standard oem clutches. Although i've read countless threads saying they are a performance up rated clutch.

Have had a big fight with the rear subframe bushes. But they are out

Edited March 9, 2011 by bbs

[thorburn 120]

Made up some rear swaybar reinforcements out of 2.7mm steel. Might not be necessary but i'd rather do it now then take the subframe out again later. Any pointers on my welding would also be appreciated as i'm still learning.

Stripped the rear subframe back and gave it the same treatment as the front subframe. There was some minor surface rust in a couple of spots. Pushed in the purple street powerflex bushes with the gold sauce. The bushes don't seem to sit quite right and after reading this: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showt...ings&page=3 it seems i'll be needing 2 longer bolts 31106769908. And some more washers.

Also dropped out the fuel tank. Luckily I had some help on this one as the tank wasn't as empty as the empty light claimed it to be. Got into giving the underside of the back end a bit of a clean up.

I still need to take it back to bare metal before welding on these:

Any advice for welding over head?

[MLM 57]

Welding overhead requires a special technique i think. Ive been told that this is a particular qualification a welder achieves.

Out of curiosity do you need to certify any of this welding?

[kerry 10]

welds look good to me, better than some of mine (im still learning to). welding overhead is hard and you probably wont get a weld to look like that especially when you get burnt and frustrated haha

[thorburn 120]

I might set up something so I can have a practice. Being that these reinforcement plates just need to be held in place I don't think the welds will be that critical.

As far as I know none of this should need certifying. I'll be due for a cert soon anyway when I put the adjustable height suspension in so I will find out.

[5amchris 45]

Welding overhead requires a special technique i think. Ive been told that this is a particular qualification a welder achieves.

Out of curiosity do you need to certify any of this welding?

Spray paint and no1 noes =/

[thorburn 120]

Welding over head and vertically is definitely a challenge that I have yet to master.

I made up a jig to practice on. Still couldn't get welds that i was really happy with but decided to give it a go anyway.

I think i've gone a bit too fast on these. I was worried about blowing a hole in the floor

Is it worth welding more to it? Currently i'm thinking not but i'll have a look around and see what other people have done

[BMRBOI 8]

Did you have fun pulling out the fuel tank? For me that was the hardest part of fitting these plates. Did you get them from pelican parts?

I had mine on axle stands when i done this and in the middle of summer ha!

They are definitely worth the effort!

Welding over head and vertically is definitely a challenge that I have yet to master.

I made up a jig to practice on. Still couldn't get welds that i was really happy with but decided to give it a go anyway.

I think i've gone a bit too fast on these. I was worried about blowing a hole in the floor

Is it worth welding more to it? Currently i'm thinking not but i'll have a look around and see what other people have done

[kerry 10]

i would put more welds in if it was me.

[thorburn 120]

Did you have fun pulling out the fuel tank? For me that was the hardest part of fitting these plates. Did you get them from pelican parts?

I had mine on axle stands when i done this and in the middle of summer ha!

They are definitely worth the effort!

Luckily I had help with the fuel tank. Hoping I can convince someone to help put it back in when the time comes.

I made the mistake of buying the plates from bmw.

Any advice while putting it back together BMRBOI? What other preventative maintenance have you done?

Having looked around a bit i've decided I will weld around it some more

[kerry 10]

just stitch weld it 15mm weld then 15mm gap and so on.

[BMRBOI 8]

Yeah i had alot more weld on mine! Mind you i actually tore out the left rear mount in mine so it was a bit more of a mission. I also cut through the skin at the top and gusseted the mounting points as well. My underbody was covered in tar also so i had to re tar it so it did not look too obvious haha.

I done the rear trailing arm bushes while i was at it... Have you done the front bush in the subframe carrier?? I done it as mine had cracks, so did my diff mounts rubbers.

The fuel tank is easier to put in I reckon, you may want to remove that bracing which the exhaust rubber mounts onto so that you have more room to manoeuvre the driveshaft to push the tank up ( I done all this on the floor of the garage by my self). Oh and maybe put the upper and lower arm into the subframe first…

You may have to improvise with clips for the sensors and wires to mount too haha.

Luckily I had help with the fuel tank. Hoping I can convince someone to help put it back in when the time comes.

I made the mistake of buying the plates from bmw.

Any advice while putting it back together BMRBOI? What other preventative maintenance have you done?

Having looked around a bit i've decided I will weld around it some more

[thorburn 120]

My attempt at solid diff mounts. Alloy ear bushes and delrin front bush with alloy insert

Because I'm not so good at photo taking here is another view of what they are

Finished off stitch welding all the reinforcement plates and gave them a paint up.

Now i'll have a go at putting the lsd back together. I wanted to get another set of ramp angles cut into it like the not so accurate pic below.

Being that it's hardened steel I don't really feel confident in DIY'n it. I imagine it'll have to be annealed and re-hardened? Currently i think it's a bit beyond my ability, so it can wait.