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thorburn

Should've got an m3

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Now, since you have both the M50 and M54 pistons at hand, just wondering, could you please measure the diameter of both? I can't say why but I am under the impression that M54B30 pistons are slightly smaller than M50B25 ones.

Bottom of m50b25 piston diameter(largest diameter) 89.93-83.94mm

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Top of m50b25 skirt diameter

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M54b30 piston diameter 89.93-89.94mm. The whole skirt is all most the same diameter

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I'm guessing that the material the b30 pistons are made out of doesn't expand as much as the b25.

There is more weight in the crank for the b30. The rods and pistons are also heavier all though they visibly look like less material

i've got no knowledge, but here's a link. http://www.justracing.com/bmw/viewtopic.php?t=55

been reading up on the subject lately as research

Cheers. Seems to be the stuff that is reposted all over and was the first info that got me tempted into doing such a thing.

hah, would that be the inside of my old M50 you bought?

Did it seem alright inside?

Sure is. So far it does seem fine. Abit of carbon buildup. A lot better then the current m52 i've got.

Triple and quadruple checks are still due before I'm set on the block. So far things are looking good.I'm sure there'll be an m50b20 block around if it isn't

How many k's were on the engine if you can remember?

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Cheers. Must've been a memorable moment

I'm trying to get ahold of a decent camera. The gopro isn't quite getting the images i'm after. And I'm sick of the wide angle lens

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Thanks mate! So, if anything, the M54 pistons are equal or bigger in diameter (at least the top of the piston) than M50.

Thanks again for the prompt reply with pics and sizes.

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Not a problem.

Can't say if it will be the same for all pistons.

There are a few things that are still a bit of a question for me

-Will the m54b30 rings be ok in an iron block?

-Will the expansion rate of the pistons be a problem?

-What compression ratio will I have (and do i want)?

The more I think about it the less I want to invest into it

Atleast the last one i'll be able to work out before bolting down and starting it.

Got back into the roll cage today. I've taken two steps back. The combination of myself and the notcher continues to ruin bars and hole saws. I personally think it has far too much play. I can't get repeatable cuts.

Will probably also need a new windscreen because I didn't have it covered while the car next to me was cutting out a sunroof. Haven't had a look at the paint yet.

If only I could go back and tell myself to buy the tools and do it at home. Whinge moan whinge moan

Hopefully if all goes well tomorrow i'll achieve something and i'll get some more photos

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Not a problem.

Can't say if it will be the same for all pistons.

There are a few things that are still a bit of a question for me

-Will the m54b30 rings be ok in an iron block?

-Will the expansion rate of the pistons be a problem?

-What compression ratio will I have (and do i want)?

The more I think about it the less I want to invest into it

Atleast the last one i'll be able to work out before bolting down and starting it.

IIRC, the M54B30 uses iron cast liners (just like the M50B25), doesn't it? So IMO, I reckon it would be all right for both your questions regarding rings and expansion.

As for the compression, you'll just have to wait and see and maybe use a thicker HG if needed.

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Will probably also need a new windscreen because I didn't have it covered while the car next to me was cutting out a sunroof.

oh man ive had that happen. big fail.

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When I had the roll cage welded in the back of my car the clown didn't remove the 1/4 glass windows like we discussed so on one spot theres a nice little melted spot of glass where a hot weld shot off and contacted with the glass..

Bargh.

Apparently he didn't have the tool to take the glass out. Uhh..

:P I am being pedantic here, not that it worries me.

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Glad i'm not the only one. Just another one of those lessons that you have to pay for.

Day 5 of working on the bars.

I re-did the bars from day 3 because the twist was wrong. I cut the part that goes down the A pillar in half and re welded it with the correct twist. This piece was then used as a template for the new bars. I got this template idea from http://engineeredtoslide.com/ amazing ute build. Unfortunately I managed to muck up the drivers side when trying to mirror the passengers. That was again re-done. Here is the result that I am now happy with

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Sorry about the horrible photo.

I'll need to buy some more steel after all of those stuff ups.

Price so far has been

-$600 ish on steel tubing

-$75 on hole saws(this will probably go up as well)

The heater will be removed at some stage. And the mess of wires in the corner will also get hacked into and cleaned up.

On to the engine I got a second opinion from one of the tutors. Rings, main bearings and big end bearings are good. Bores look ok/questionable. Need to actually spend some time and properly measure them(i've really been putting this off).

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Got some of it welded up. Was quite an experience. Some spots are a little poor but I wont be worrying about them.

Learnt a few lessons like:

-don't lean on bit's you've recently welded.

-don't put the ground strap in a place that is likely to make you complete the circuit

-it's worth spending the time to get notches perfect

-if your shakey like me use whatever you can to lean on. Free handing sent me continually to resharpen the tungsten

-coupes are dumb

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I shouldn't of put in a close up of one of the average welds but eh.

Really enjoying it

Edited by bbs

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Thanks for the kind words

Got the floor plates welded in and the tubes are in their final position

On to the not so good news. Got a mate to clean up some of the engine parts. I forgot to tell him I was going to re-use the main bearings. So they got a treatment from the bead blaster. Probably is a good thing in the long run

Other not so good news was getting a bit of steel in my eye the other day(even though I was wearing a full protective mask). Thought i'd got it out but this morning it made itself known. So spent the morning getting it dug out in the hospital.

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Ouch. No permanent damage?

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Should be fine, thanks for the concern. I can see out of it still.

I'll definately go straight to the hospital next time. Getting rust ground out was not pleasant at all

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haha good stories, ill have to suss you out soon for the suspension parts list. and that clutch is awesome.. got to get me one of those. :D keep it up.

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Don't get the clutch and flywheel setup i did. There are better options for the same price or cheaper. If I were to get another i'd go with one of the ebay f1 flywheels and something from clutchnets range of pp and clutches.

The reason I say this is my setup is very on-off. It's a joke how many times I stall it.

Not sure what is meant by 'suss me out'

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Wow, that sucks about the eye injury. I normally wear my safety glasses, but occasionally forget - this is a good reminder to wear them at all times!

Not sure what is meant by 'suss me out'

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Don't get the clutch and flywheel setup i did. There are better options for the same price or cheaper. If I were to get another i'd go with one of the ebay f1 flywheels and something from clutchnets range of pp and clutches.

The reason I say this is my setup is very on-off. It's a joke how many times I stall it.

Not sure what is meant by 'suss me out'

haha suss meant like jack up a time, organize, sort, make contact, along those lines... you from h town right i thought you would have heard that before, oh well haha

would the clutch set up good for a drift car maybe can do some sort of a deal hmm...

ill touch base with ya later about a good set up as next weekend id like to have it in my car..

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Eye is looking fine. Just a small rust ring left atm.

haha suss meant like jack up a time, organize, sort, make contact, along those lines... you from h town right i thought you would have heard that before, oh well haha

Ahh I see. I must not get out much.

But yea i'm happy to share all

would the clutch set up good for a drift car maybe can do some sort of a deal hmm...

ill touch base with ya later about a good set up as next weekend id like to have it in my car..

Might be ok for drifting. It's fine for spirited driving. At the gymkhana day it was perfectly happy with overpowering the traction in the front(combination of loosing lock nut and soft rear springs). Not sure what they are rated to power wise

And here is the progress i've made

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Tutor had suggested to pull the booster. I wussed out.

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Just a snap of some of the easier tricky parts. Still need to finish welding the underside. Not so easy

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There is a diagonal to go inside the main hoop and harness bars still to go.

Only part i'm not overly stoaked about is the diagonal going over the roof. It's still a bit low. Shouldn't be a problem for head room. I'll go lower in the seat if it comes to it.

So the bits I need help with

-How do I get rid of the fluffy roof

-What do I do about paint on the bars- color,process and materials

-Should I make up a dash bar for it or just make up some sort of removable strut brace

-What should I use to re-seal the underseal that has burnt off

-Have I done anything obviously wrong

Turns out even after my many mistakes i've still had enough steel plus a bit extra.

Engine and gearbox have been at a stand still. Will hopefully get the head done while still at tec

Edited by bbs

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Pretty trick play ground you've got going there.

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Cheers guys means a lot.

Nearly done now. Should make special mention to my helper Tim. He's been a huge help with the cage and some other touch up bits. I'd be well behind without his help and left handed ness.

We've sure learnt a lot doing this

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Half the fun with doing these things is learning as you go.

Even if you have a fair idea with what you're doing it's not until you actually do it you come to realise things you never thought of before and have to come up with solutions and what not to make things work the way you want.

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