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If you are replacing the thrust arm, you could try fitting the lock nut back on the ball joint, but not tight. Load up the tool and hit the nut with a drift & hammer or hit the ball joint in the thrust arm to shock it's release

Thanks for that Glenn, appreciate it. Yeah I have complete thrust arms as the boot on the ball joint were already split. Will give that a shot tomorrow

Seal size & material are probably more the cause. A 6mm valve stem doesn't give a lot of area for sealing , however, other manufacturers seem to get it right

The advise given both by Glenn and Nathan is sound you are up for $$$$$ no matter what you do. Do some research and the numbers on fixing the current raft of problems with your N42 and then doing a six cylinder conversion you might be surprised.

All valvetronic motors can give valve stem seal problems.. 6's & 8's too. On a ratio though, the 4's are more problematic

Can't help with the fitment sorry but was wondering whether the cone filters will have some kind of enclosure around them. Otherwise, can't help thinking they will suck in a lot of warm engine air unlike the stock intake which is sealed and draws ducted cold air straight from the intakes.

So, as some of you already know (through my coffee meet chats) I had a Mercedes E class for quite some time and it finally sold this week. Unfortunately I wasn't able to surprise everyone at the meet today but I just picked up an E36 328i Coupe M Sport and thus I am finally back into a BMW where I belong. Its quite rough as it is, but the plan is to tidy it up as much as I can and keep it as a daily driver! Stay tuned! - engine oil and filter change - some basic paint touch ups and bodywork - clean and refit door cards - replace door handle rubber seal - replace headunit and wire up a aux line - install armrest - smoked side indicators - clear or smoked rear lights - paint black kidney grills - apply sunstike tint to top of front windscreen - replace gearknob with the newer round shape - repair left front guard - repaint rear bumper - replace all four tyres with some proper ones soon - replace all speakers - replace key fob batteries and reprogram the central locking - spoiler delete and replace with a lip spoiler - replace front windscreen rubber seal - retrim rear parcel tray from faded grey to black - tint rear windscreen - wheel alignment and balancing - check all suspension components and bushings - front lip - trans fluid change - manual conversion

Realising this thread should be in the projects section now...but anyway... I ordered a JB4, BMS Dual intakes, Charge pipe w/ tial BOV, and Oil Catch Can around 2 weeks ago from the states and arrived on Saturday morning Was quite busy this weekend however had some time yesterday afternoon to attempt to install the JB4. I don't have much experience at all with engines apart from changing oil and filters, but read that it wasn't too difficult, so had my ipad in the garage with the PDF and Youtube video instructions and took around 1.5hrs. Car started first time though and didn't throw any codes so success! Hardest bit was knowing how much force was needed for the removal and installation of some bits but now I know can do it in 30mins if I need to remove it at all This car is now a beast! I was worried that I had done too much research and my expectations would be too high, but there is a very noticeable difference in power and torque. The first time I let the boost build in 3rd gear made me laugh like a kid Excited to feel (and hear) the difference once the intake and charge pipe are installed later this week

Pulled the seat out and opened up the little gearbox. One of the plastic cogs had a crack in it so wouldnt turn the main gear. There were two sets of these in the gearbox so i switched it over. Now i regained the tilting movement and moving front and back works too. Lost the ability to move rhe seat up and down but no biggie. Also some pics of the retrimmed headliner and properly attached door cards Yay!