nazistaffcar

Would that be your own drum there gus????

getting an average of about 250ks to about 50 litres with my 323 e30 and the mrs is getting about 450ks to 55 litres in the 323 e36 but I like to mash the pedal down hard afterall gas is gas, if I cared about consumption I'd be driving a smartcar(70+mpg)......and afterall it's better than my dinosaur Falcon that is lucky to get 3.5 mpg on the motorway with a gradual downhill, tail wind and a feather foot on the gas pedal.............not to mention that I only get 3000ks out of a set of rear tyres.........

Deviation from these specs will cause undue wear unless you toe the wheel out which in turn will add a little more stability un fortunately due to the design of the rear axle you will wear the inside edges but on the upside the rear end is much more controlable live with it.....by the way if you like living on the edge run about 2 degrees camber about 1/4-1/2 a degree toe out and terrorise the local two lane roundabout(recipe for mean as sideways) Just remember to rotate tyres every 10000 k and there won't be a problem as long as you follow the door card specs for tyre pressures......

no bad hair days here because I only use suspension professionals that's why I suggested Tyreworx!!!!!! However due to the fact that it was too far for you clowns to drive or because of the fear of being molested by some trailer trash westy then you get what you pay for - CRAP ALIGNMENT, just because the wheel is off centre doesnt mean the alignment is not right my arse......It's a work ethic that shows that thay really don't give a sh*t or that near enough is good enough!!! The other solution is Dean and Gareth at magwarehouse.com-central at the top of New North Rd these guys that I have suggested are NOT some snot nosed 18 yr fcukwit that knows how to abuse your pride and joy, they are qualified suspension mechanics- kind of like BMW mechanics that get their apprenticeships working solely on BMWs these guys have spent years learning about suspension set-ups....a good example is the fact that my 97 motorsport is dumped on adjustable suspension it has 2 degrees of front camber, and close to 3.5 degrees on the rear but I have managed to get close to 40,000kms on the tyres and their still going with no pulling (or tram lining), no mushiness under excessive hard braking and the car handles like sh*t sticks to a blanket......but then good suspension+good tyres+good alignment will turn a great car into a brilliant one

If there are reflectors on the road ie on the white line in the centre you will find that in line with the triangle, yellow curb, orthe big yellow FH you will find a blue reflector which is what the fire service use as an identificaton marker!!!!! But i think you will be given the big yellow F/O and find that you may even have to pay court costs if you let it go that far....have you learnt from the experience???????

Maybe 2 of the three cause I already own one of them

eh gus are those shocks any good to be used with 325 springs??

Not to forget burnt or possibly bent valves after you give your new quiet motor the big rev........Just remember the old saying-a noisy tappet is a happy tappet.....as long as it dont sound like a tractor!!!!!

park car on steel plate connect the phase wire from extension lead (from a plug in the wall 240 volts) to the body of the car and the neutral to the plate , remove the fuse at the mains board and replace with a 4" nail......shocking or place claymore mine under the car facing in the direction of the drivers door leave the door unlocked connect trip wire to door handle and run accross hte seat and through the shifter hole connecting to the claymore. Pace big sign on window protected by 'mine' alarm remove safety pin and leave the country

Dude if you're not having any luck pm me and we'll get together and trust me WE can get the money at the council....I'm a angry c**t when this sort of sh*t happens the earlier you get pharked off and start chewing their hands the quicker you're gonna get answers....start ringing the f**kers like every hour and demand some answers.....this is an example of how truely f**ked NZ is becoming not only do carlovers have to put up with out of control devaluation, cost of fuel and the fact that the average driver on NZ roads doesn't understand the road rules (and can't drive to boot) but there seems to be a growing disrepect for automotive fanactics and regardless of how much Tax you pay the roads really are third world but the tree f**king government dont give a flying f**k.....and they try to kill motorsport in the main centres too......... Seriously get in contact if you're not having any luck and I'll try my own tried method of getting a response.....

Fancy doing it in a crop top, skirt,suspenders, tights, and heels, causeI know a few people keen to pitch in and get you working real hard my friend :drugs: :drugs: :puke: :puke:

Let me know if you're heading out Gus, cause I might come out for a day of sun and leisure.......nah so I can thrash my beast

I have had this problem particularly with motorbikes....braided brakelines are the most difficult thing for an engineer to pass for certification and the warrant guys dont like anything that's not O.E.......these lines MUST be crimped (not reusable screw together), they must have either a sae part# or have the relevant NZ safety code, or have the test band(like the id band on birds). But dont forget that even with these things warrant guys like to fail you for it........my mate and I have changed 3 sets of brakelines between us in the last 6 months because of legislation changes concerning the use of stainless brake lines.....

Wanted 15" nasty, cheapish, non trade me wheels for skidding up as I'm contemplating having a go at drifting.....and I need a spare set of relatively round wheels so I can break them and the rear quarters on the E30 before I attempt to total a non compliant E36 M3.............

Weapon, I tells ya.......rip that sh*t off fukn bin it all fukn crap rubber hoses...mmmmm nice new stuff.....me thinks fuel lines next couple of dodgy buggers in here i notice........

Cheers guys I'll give em a go at lunch seems that i kinda got them in the right order with the exception of 1 off the throttle body.....let you know how I get on....

Just don't forget to; 1. keep all correspondence(keep basic notes of phone conversations) 2. try to deal with 1 person at the council-if your having no luck move up the chain of command(these wankers are only paid $30K a year so they really hate the job and don't give a toss about your $30K+ CAR) 3. KEEP ON THEIR CASE don't let 2 or 3 days go by without contact......personal experience has proven that once a day will get answers if no luck twice or three times a day until you get confirmed/concrete answers It also may pay to find out who the contractor is and who the insurance company is......you may want to contact your own insurance company and advise them of the situation as well, tell them the contractors insurance company will be handling the damages,etc...it wont affect your no-claims and if it must be known they are a very good ally...........

The problem is that the two ports on the manifold, on one on choke plate and the last one on the throttle body have different levels of vaccum (throttle port being the highest)so it's the placement of tubes that is the problem.......

Where the fark do they go??? Some clown has been fiddling.....motor is supposedly a 2.3.....can't seem to get my weapon to idle(either idles at 1200 or 500) and it doesn't want to sing(rev) two ports on the distributor, throttle actuator and the fuel rail regulator which have to connect to two ports on the manifold 1 port near the cold start injector(which isn't connected can't find wiring for it either) and 1 port near the throttle butterfly.......I have tried different combinations but the hoses are all much too long to allow process of elimination.........ANY CLUES or has someone got a diagram

Trust me I had the same issue in Waitakere where i managed to flatten 2 17' motorsport wheels and bent the control arm on my e36.....but as luck would happen a very nice lady at the Waitakere council told me how to get payment; 1. Contact the council...ask who the contractor is who has been doing the repairs(or stalk the site to get the contractors name) 2. Contact the roading contractor because he will have public liability insurance 3. Contract the insurance company and explain that you have hired a car from the most expensive rental company in town.... 4. Keep a log of your dealings with all of the above parties...time,date and person spoken to, what their role is... 5. Keep all the people you deal with informed of what is happening, this is the best part because if you have any troubles you can unleash the demons on all of the useless f**kers..... This method worked for me, payment was recieved from the insurance company within 3 days and I even recieved a written apology from the council and the contractor

Don't forget import laws- frontal impact blah blah and the fact pre 96 3 series only have 1 airbag and even that original pre 96 system is non compliant (if you put dual bags in)................why not buy a weapon such as a M3 evo, because they're damned cheap(even with the NZ dollar being weakish) even on e-bay uk......or e46 328 or 330........just remember shipping will cost $2k-$3k fully insured but honestly worth it if you have good contacts, and I have a good shipping contact e-mail me if interested([email protected]) or ph 021330567

This is true, it is in Italy.....buy now euro 15,000 neg....however my partner has family in Europe, who own a workshop specializing in performance vehicles, I am considering importing something because 1.I can get the help needed so as not to import a piece of sh*t 2.These 'tuned' cars are not just badged differently as they are in NZ 3.shipping isn't that expensive(with a little help from the 'family') and 4.you can guarantee that it's the only real one in the country......

Now have a cry cause it's the real deal.......Alpina B7.....and crouched in a shed getting covered in _____

with all seriousness.....who is modifying your wheels?cost of tyres?spacer mods? I currently run 16x9 and 16x10 wheels on a v8 falcon with 245/45x16 and 255/50x16 and I am now discovering that 17" tyres are 1 cheaper for relavant widthand quality 2 easier to come by and the fact that outside the normal factory fitments many of the 16" sizes are becoming extinct........however if you really want to flog that horse Arrow wheels has moved to Kelston(bout a year ago) try Lance pick his brains, then email me, as I have modified 3 or 4 sets of BBS wheels using Arrow shells to increase widths for an Audi quattro(race car) and a TVR it wasn't a cheap option about $600 per wheel(just the outer rim shell alone is $300 from Arrow wheels).......There is a couple of good Japanese web sites for second hand wheels, however shipping makes this an expensive option (get your hands on Option magazine for addresses watch out for none english sites)....or contact DS WHOLESALERS 094482366 he's got some mean wheels at reasonable prices

Wurth- 42 Hobill Ave, Manukau.ph 2623040.......it maybe an idea to contact Dave Robinson(mob 0212802106) as he is the metal division manager to see if they would be interested in some form of 'bulk buy' deal for club members......They work the same as all good supply companies with a local rep near you.....contact the head office for details