warrenp

The OEM rims are 24.1kg with tyres so about 5kg heavier per wheel - 13kg vs 8kg approx. If these alloys are safe and actually JWL and VIA certified then my new setup will be safe yet have 20kg less unsprung weight. I see I need spacers. Without spacers the rims are about 1.5mm from rubbing on the front shocks. OEMS are about 12mm away. So 10mm spacers are my thoughts. https://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Wheel-Offset-Calculator# suggests 8 inch ET20 to 9 inch ET20 would be 13mm difference so the 10mm I measured sounds about right. Does anyone here have a set of 10mm spacers and longer lug nuts for e61? Or tips where to buy these? Cheers

Total weight with tyre is 18.85kg, and since the Pirelli P Zero Nero GT 245/40R18 is supposedly 11.36kg (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Pirelli-P-Zero-Nero-GT-245-40R18-ZR-97Y-XL-High-Performance-Tire/43082190) this would make the wheel 7.49kg. But the tyre has lost a couple mm of tread and it could also be a previous model which weighed less so maybe the alloy is 8.5kg or something. Somewhere round this weight. Other numbers on the wheel are 660kg 09507-0013-213. The BMW badge in the middle appears to be OEM, made in Italy. No brand marking anywhere. I'm interested to see what the OEM rims weight in comparison. Will update and post some pics when I've got them on the car later today.

Also etched into the rim as seen in this photo: 18X9JJ 5H/120 ET20

By the valve is the JWL mark and the VIA mark that are Japanese standards. Of course these could be also faked... Here is a close up pic of these marks.

Hi folks, I'm looking at these used rims for my 550i. If they are actually forged (as stamped on the rim) then I think they'll be worth getting. Anyone here able to recognise from a pic if the wheel looks forged or cast? It appears to have a chrome coating which on this wheel is flaking off. I'm not worried about that. Just after some good strong and light wheels as a second set for my car. Are there any questions one could ask the seller to help ascertain if they are forged or cast? Cheers!

Okay guys. Feedback taken. I've ordered all four struts from Schmiedmann.com and the car will come with a tailgate and glass door that will for many years not land on your head. Also will have a new 6 month warranted 850cca battery. I can't think of anything else the car is missing or wanting now. Also will put a new radio antenna on the roof as apparently the existing one was had it (I never listen to radio so never knew). All this for 4,500. Fair price?

Hi folks, I'm selling my e39 530i Touring with 163K on the clock. Mechanically in good order. I can honestly say the body is in above average condition compared to every other e39 I've seen. Motor and transmission are smooth and silky. Had regular oil and filter changes ahead of recommended schedule. Video of running engine and a short drive: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o_tcXiPwBQI https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=2188542959 Reserve at $4,500.

I've labeled the wires that go into the amp from the mute box, they are the same colour as the ones that attach to the cut off wires that originally go into the amp. I should add, they didn't piggyback, they cut the wires and directed them to the mute box and then back out to the amp. They are in pairs: The unit's white and white/black stripe wires go to: yellow/red stripe and yellow/brown stripe The unit's green and green/black stripe go to: yellow/purple stripe and yellow/gray stripe The unit's purple and purple/black stripe go to: blue/purple stripe and blue/tan stripe The unit's grey and grey/black stripe go to: turquoise/red stripe and turquoise/brown stripe I've sellotaped the colour codes to the wires as well (the ones that go back into the amp). Then the red fused wire to the unit (the mute box) piggybacks to the thick red/green wire going into the amp (same group plug as the other wires) The black wire (with the metal crimp connection) going into the unit (mute box) piggybacks onto the thick brown wire going into the amp (in the same group plug again) If you can't figure out where to connect the blue fused wire let me know and I will get in under the CD stacker and see what it connects to. All the best for wiring it up!

I am labeling with sellotape each wire in the bunch of 8 in and 8 out with the dual colour code of each wire it piggybacks onto. If your amp has the same coloured wires as mine this should make it fairly easy to install.

Hi Brent I'll just post some pics of the wiring here so you can give me the all clear to cut the unit's wires that are piggybacking onto my my 'amp in' wires before I send it to you. Which wires connect to which looks very complicated to me but maybe you know more about this than I do! The unit seems to be getting power by the blue and red (red being connected to the amp) fused wires, with the blue one coming up from behind the CD stacker (I can trace that one back to see where it is coming from if you would like). The unit sends its audio signal into the amp via jumping onto those other wires going into the amp. If I can, I will cut the wires so you can see which colour wires they are piggybacking onto, but I also need enough wire to reconnect my original wires back into my amp. If this looks too much of a nightmare, no worries if you'd rather not buy it! Otherwise I will pm you my bank details for $60 including post. Up to you!

I just pulled a Parrot CK3000 kit from my 2003 530i touring that I just purchased. I can show you exactly which wires to connect it to if you have the same car. Includes all the parts. Main box, microphone, wiring, connector to where it wires up on the amp, little button piece that clips onto your dash. I cut the wires in the middles to save pulling the car to bits to get them out so they would need to be soldered at the point I cut them. $50 plus post sound fair? Or make me an offer. Going on trademe new from $175 to $249.

Thanks Jared. I did it with an old handsaw. It had a hole in about the right place at the end so I anglegrinded an indent to about the same shape as the OEM tool. Worked like a charm. If anyone in Wairarapa region needs it let me know.

I was thinking of making the tool with a piece of metal and an anglegrinder and drill etc.. Is this how you would do it? The hammer approach didn't work. I think this nut has perhaps never been removed.

Which means I turn it clockwise (top of spanner moving to the right) when facing the engine correct? Just to be sure!

Thanks Gabe, I made the tool out of an old handsaw. It had a hole in about the right place at the end so I anglegrinded an indent to about the same shape as the OEM tool. Worked like a charm. If anyone in Wairarapa region needs it let me know.