Silver Fox

For the M30 engine, so E28, E34, all the 3.5l straight 6's. Anyone want to do a manual conversion, after $950, pm me.

These diffs fit both, just need to swap back plates and output shafts, easy to do. I have 1 x 3.46, and 1 x 3.73. After $800 each, pm me.

Thanks anyway but it's different. Managed to pick one up on tme with driveshaft, diff and shifter etc for $80 today so all's good.

After a non going box for some external bits, can anyone help? From any getrag 240 box, facelift or pre facelift, 4 cyl or 6 cyl. Thanks.

You need to know the stud pattern and offset. You want 4 x 100 for the studs, and offset between 15 and 25, maybe up to 30 for a 6.5 inch rim..

yes he is, the E36 diff will not fit an E30, but the E28 diff will, so long as you change the back plate and the output shafts. This is an easy thing to do, the back plate is just unbolt and bolt up, and the output shafts are just lever out and push in. The other options are the E23 and E24 diffs, same story as the E28.

Agree, I have an 87 E28 M30 525i at home now.

You get a list of the watchers, and can select who you send the offer to if you wish.

HB Paul you sly OLD dog, good luck for tomorrow.

No you're not, you're racing at Puke?

I see one of the guys bidding has had 3 trades, he's bought a hacky sack, a skipping rope and 3 vw hubcaps

Love to see the starting grid of 40 E30's at Pukekohe this weekend done like this?

318i has the 45 mm strut, you'd need to get 51 mm struts to use these. Easy to do if you're going to change anyway.

Notice you haven't posted your race car results Andy?

Front shocks I'd get done as they are a pain. Steering rack is an easy fix, get a good second hand one, shouldn't be more than $100 to 150, and change it yourself. Will take you some time, but fairly straight foward. Before you do that, check that it's not just the rack ends, the rack itself may be fine, the inner rack ends tend to go, also called tie rods. These are also an easy change, and only around $20 each, you need 2 of. Don't forget to get a wheel alignment after you're done. Check out this site for instructions. http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticl...nt-Overhaul.htm

Yeah, makes sense, if the back of the starter went up to line up the hole, the pinion will be going down, which will help the engagement.

That's your problem then, the starter's the right one, the backing plate is in the wrong place, I,ve had the same problem when I only had one locating thing on the motor, and the backing plate moved about 2 mm, just enough to misalign the starter. Had to back off the box and shift the backing plate until I could get the starter bolts both in first, then tighten the rest up.

Is the starter motor tighened up properly on it's dowel? If it binds slightly on the dowel and doesn't go in straight then you can get this problem. The starter ends up on a slight angle, hardly noticeable, but enough to make it miss the ring gear.

77 ft lb according to Haynes.

Damn

I'll give you $500 for it.

Happy Birthday Shuey, your shout at Puke?

Quite an involved task, you do need to take all the front off to get at the cambelt, should change it while you're there. See this site for details, http://ee1394.com/bmw/docs/factory/repair/en/index1.htm Click on main groups, then engine, then M40, then check out "toothed drive belt - replace", and "Cylinder head gasket - replace", sections.

make a bloody neat track car at that price tho?

See he's bidding on this one, http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=143026443 Imagine the Questions and answers if he was trying to sell it?