Silver Fox

Unlike all the others the M40 has enough natural power for all real men.

The notch to line the mark up with is the double ridge, about 20mm past the end of the plastic you're looking at, heading to the top or your right from the front.The cam alignment tool will tell you when you're there anyway. So long as both valves on 1 are closed and the cam is held in the right place you should be good.

There is a notch on the housing at the top around 12 o'clock, the mark on the cog should line up approx on it. Make sure it's the firing stroke not the exhaust one. ie. both valves should be closed on no. 1 cylinder.

Didnt know he had any.

On sale at the moment, Quite quick if you chuck an air rattle gun on them carefully.

My manual E34 535i has a manufacturing date of 04/88 according to real oem. Makes it 20 this month. English import, LSD, leather, not sports seats tho. I'm thinking of wrecking it for the motor and box if anyones interested in the rest? Production Code: HD12, batch ID: 47382 Don't know if anyones interested or not, but would let it go complete for $2000 pm me.

Oh well, good side is, you got what you asked for them, and didn't die waiting.

I see Mr Mosen from Mosen's in Hamilton's bought them. Don't you hate it when something goes so quick with the buynow?

FACTORY RHD, sorry, all evidence to date suggests and points to the fact that there are no FACTORY RHD cars. All registries I've seen specifically state that all production was LHD. Doesn't stop it from being an exceptional car IMHO tho.

Yeah, quite tight is a matter of opinion I guess. Over tightening is not good either. Like I said, all the people who should know have told me the 90 degree thing is the best way if you don't have the correct BMW tensioner. Hope it helped.

Depends on the condition of the bottom end. I did two head rebuilds on M40's and ended up with run bearings from the extra compression with both. you might only be getting the head back in spec, but the bottom end won't be in spec with 150k on it. Cheap insurance at this stage I would have thought to at least redo the bearings?

OK, so I've got another life actually. You need to lock the cam in the right position, tighten the toothed cam cog on the front with the tension tight on the right side as you look at it from the front, and then lever the tensioning cog out till the belt will twist to 90 degrees with your fingers. Tighten up the nut on the tesioner at this point, you should be left with around 10mm of slack in the longest run on the belt. Quite easy really.

Yeah, you're right from memory, prefacelift needs sensor IIRC? Someone will tell you.

Cost, anywhere from $500 to $1000, depending on luck? Yes to all the rest. ie. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...1036472.htm?p=1

Just do it. Have got, includes the two rectangular plugs to lights and 2 sets of connectors for the numberplate lights. Can cut where it leaves the boot if that suits. Cheers, David.

Would suggest you start looking, Quick.

One piece case, so need a big hacksaw and welder.

Yes, it is the 240, but be carefull, the 320 also has a 240 box, and it doesn't fit. The box you need must come from a M40 car.

SHhhhhhhhhhhh

My effort this afternoon

Interested in E28 at that price?

HB Dan, be good to meet you there.

You can find another 15mm clearance for the inside if you go back to solid brake disks and calipers, instead of the vented, stops the inside of the spokes hitting the calipers, makes little difference to the average driver.

Very easy Jimmy, they just slide in and out.

get in the car and remove the handbrake surround, then undo the 2 x 10mm nuts that hold the cables in the handbrake, one each side, and pull thru from under the car. They stay with the subframe.