*Glenn*

On E36 coupes its harder... the whole window has to come out and be realigned and reinitialised

You might have to wait longer than what you anticipate though. I had to because they were on back order

Thats a bloody good price...well done

All good Mark Sounds like they are a reputable repairer... keeping customers informed is a must these days. No surprises at the end of the day

With the 3.91:1 diff in the car the engine will be doing 3,200rpm @ 100kph in top gear with the tyre size your running. With a 4.45:1 diff it will be reving to 3,673rpm @ 100kph Is that what you want ?? Are you sure your performance issues are not engine or gearbox related ? Remember also your car is quite heavy and only a 2 litre

Auckland Auto Trimmers in Penrose Ph. 3764442

I noticed no drivers airbag... wonder who certed it ? The only thing I like on the car is the front kit... oh...and the motor...but not in a BMW

Get it scanned to determine the exact fault. Its more than likely the passengers seat occupancy sensor mat or a pre tensioner wiring loom fault. These wiring looms are now superceeded and in most cases the pre tensioner doesnt need to be replaced, just the loom itself. However, I suggest you get it scanned first. There are other components that can fail and cause the SRS light to come on. If you've had a flat battery recently or you disconnected the battery, it might just need a reset.

The lever has been superceeded...not the part number. If you look at ETK the bottom bush on the lever has two washers (10) these are not needed any more. The lower bush on the lever is different now and the washers are built into the bush. You might need the retainer bush /bearing (7) which I would suggest replacing. You might also need (4) (2) and the (10's) at the gearbox end of the shift linkage. The knuckle joint (12) very rarely needs replacing, however if it is worn ...replace it. When I advertised these last time my price was $110 inclusive. I could only get 4 which I sold and I back ordered 10... bit of a cock up I only got six and BMW don't have any more. They cost me more as well. I have three left to sell but I cant do them for less that $120 inclusive of Gst... if the boys can do them for $100.... go for it...thats a really good price. I'll just keep mine in stock for customers.

The new levers are superceeded. The only extra bits you might need is the lever retainer bush & maybe the support bracket bush, thats all.

Peter !!!!! .... Its not a friggen Honda

I purchased the last 4 BMW NZ had in February and put 10 on back order in March... only 6 arrived with my back order... there are no more available from BMW NZ, I have six, but I cant do them for a $100... maybe $120 inclusive. I dont mean to hijack... you guys are trying to do the right thing..as I said before $100 is a good price...go for it I've already sold 3 to customers...if someone wants one urgently...ring me

You wouldn't want any shorter Peter. Too hard to change gear and the change rod is likely to touch the coupling on the driveshaft

Have a great day mate From Glenn & the Team

$100 is a good price for genuine Z3 1.9 shifters. Especially if that includes Gst & freight. The best I could do for members was $110 incl Gst

The rear elements may also have been damaged if it previously had tints and they have been removed by an idiot. Have seen this heaps of times, if so, as Jochen says, you'll need a new rear screen

I've tried finding info too, everyone is just saying you can't and that they won't in the industry. It's got me curious too Cam.. if you find anything, please let me know. Thats why we spent time trying it out on the E46 (cost me $400 with Pitstop just to try what we did) to see if we could find a reason. Without a cat the E46 oxygen sensors read quite differently and fuel trim went out of scale trying to compensate causing the engine check light to stay on, I think we stored the fault codes & live data info on a PDF file.....I'll look later, even with some Chase muffler aftermarket cats fitted, which we have used alot on other cars, including BMW V8's & 6's, Merc's and Audi's Edit: I might also add that alot of the warranty companies wont allow the removal of cats on vehicles that have pre cat and after cat oxygen sensors. If you do, the engine is not covered under the warranty.

I have one in Diamondswartz $30

328 Ti Mtech The fact that I made it It's a one off Its different Its a sleeper (to those who don't know) The grunt That its now manual with LSD The handling And the reliability I dont need a radio...the music is all out of the rear... luv that Siebring muffler Because its mine for all the reasons above

I didnt know that Dave... telecom must of been selective on Monday... I got all my other phone calls

$117 + Gst for standard key (non remote) $320 + Gst for remote key Both X Germany ordered by chassis #

Yes it was booked if for Monday Sorry I didnt here the phone go to opoligise for not being able to turn up The technician that was going to do your car was having a party while he was waiting and he had the sterio turned up and I didnt here the phone Once again.. sorry for not getting the phone, the answer phone was playing up too.. I had no messages that day

I had doubts some time ago... all manufactures that supply vehicles with pre cat & after cat sensors specify you cant remove them. We had a E46 318I M43 at work for some time that we had fitted a new air mass sensor to.. all systems and live data was correct to specs. We took the cat out. (1) Engine check light on (2) Fault codes: Oxygen sensor (1) & (2) out of scale Cat Deteriation Fitted aftermarket cat... same fault codes Tried high flow cat... same fault codes Refitted original cat... no fault codes and everything within specs Why would I bother looking for a solution to overcome an introduced fault that the manufacturers say not to do ? Some might want to...thats fine... research...research .... research I fix vehicles for customers that rely on my advice and pay a reasonable price for what I do I will not expose myself to risk or put myself in a position of compromise. If you can find a solution... fine...what will be the gains ? probably nill Risks? small ?? huge ?? Just my 2c... and I really dont need to provide proof... I do what I feel is right for my customer & myself.. others may differ

Oxygen sensors alter fuel trim and correct fueling issues, like air leaks and air mass sensor faults to look after the engines. Early cars have only pre cat, removing the cat doesnt effect there operation. Later cars have pre and after cat sensors. They work in tandem and still control fuel trim (together) Yes you will get a cat deterioration fault code if the cat is faulty, however they both control fuel trim... I've been there, done that, it doesnt work. Do what ever pleases you to do with your car. As a professional and serving the industry and customers, I advise not to remove cats from cars with pre cat & after cat oxygen sensors unless you are going to run and aftermarket control system that is tuned to regulate fuel & ignition control. BTW a reputable exhaust specialist in Auckland did this to an Audi A6 V8.. after 2 weeks the engine was (*****) it was proven that removal of the cats did the damage.

Some of our models do to