hotwire

Yep - thats what I meant just didn't spell it out. Obviously some E12's had oil level warning -cant say I have ever noticed myself though

Stand to be corrected on this - ours certainly hasn't got oil level warning & haven't seen one with but I do know of variations in E12 clusters Edit - Being amber light rather than red probably does point to oil level rather than pressure

I do have a mint working 4:3 if thats what you currently have & don't want to go for the $$ in upgrading the monitor/video module to 16:9

Yes, as already said to Q1 Q2 Yes oil light, different to ours though as ours has a red light with oil can display. There were a couple of variations with dash clusters in the E12 though - what year is yours? It is oil pressure though -not level as in the E30's etc with the monitor Light obviously shouldn't be on all the time, particually with key off. Must be some sort of feedback somewhere for that to happen. It's a simple circuit -ign supply to gauge & earth via oil sender on engine

Ouch, this is when you DON'T want them inside the car but rather - under the bonnet - imagine if it was like some & mounted under the back seat squab - give the rear seat passenger a wakeup call:o . Not a common thing to happen, normally as a result of someone shorting it -been there done that Usually with an internal short they simply self discharge. Have over the years seen many BMW OEM fitted batteries lasting well over 10 years - a couple up to 15 And YES - they don't do much for the toes when wearing jandels either, particually truck ones - been there too

Nice car you have there - good on you. Looks great in red One minor constructive criticism - realighn the passenger door

Maybe but Ive broken more than one in my (sometimes but not always haste) getting them out

Be VERY careful!! No they are not glued in. They are easy to remove but even easier broken. Remove the beadlock & CAREFULLY ease the screen out from the inside, starting from one corner. Make sure the rubber is not stuck to the screen on the inside -if it is - run a blade of sorts around to release before pushing out. Being laminated - they split very easily - dont apply pressue to one point but spread the load. If you dont need the second rubber - best way is to sacrifice the one you are removing the good screen from, & save risking breaking the screen. I tend to get the windscreen guys to refit the front screens because of their tendency to break

Neither!

The video module (TV unit) has facility for AV input but is not prewired for it. You can buy an adapter plug to fit in series with the TV harness plug or make up a lead to suit

You oughta be a sparky David Assuming he does have voltage - then back to my first suggestion as likely cause

Could be the case if normal high beam (not flash) is not working either. If high beam is working then it can't be ign fault as both relays are fed by the same ign supply - check ign supply is to terminal 86 of K3 & K4 relays

Milan, Check "Low Beam check relay" - located alongside fuses 12-15 Im assuming you are saying high beam working on normal h/b headlight position as well as flash? Rear fog light - not sure -can't see in wiring diagram from quick look I have had. Will edit when I confirm

Alloys themselves worth bugger all - $25 -30 each. Tyres - depends on demand but probably half the same tyre value new

Yep, Jap system. As I said & Jochen varified on here - the only part requiring changing is the Jap nav unit in the back - easy. Radio - as said - depends on build date in 01 as to whether it has a dedicated market tuner or the later world market unit. Last 7 digits of chassis code & I can varify build date.

No prob, happy to help you out if & when it suits. Cheers

Yep, both work, Mk4 much better in that it has split screen option (last of Mk3 does too) has perspective view option, & has a much faster processor, also takes up to current version software. Yep Mk3 is a considerably cheaper option & works fine - a little more vulnerable to to failing than the 4. Be aware on Ebay that some units are programmed for monochrome & wont work without reprogramming to colour with Jochen's Navcoder programme.

Think we were talking on the phone earlier about this - if so - price options pretty much as I mentioned. Cheers Grant

Yep, nice car - good on you, enjoy!!

Unless you connected wrong then you really shouldn't have done any damage. What fuses did you check? Has the alternator got a battery supply to it? If not it will probably have a blown main fuse. The systems are fairly well protected now days to avoid damage from incorrect polarity.

Ray, Can be suspension parts but at that milage I would say unlikely. Mine has similar Ks (nearly 70 & genuine) & I had the same problem at around 60K where I had to replace the front discs. They were shuddering & were grooved to deeply to machine. I priced genuine but fitted aftermarket as they were 1/2 the price - figuring that if genuine give only 60k ish then I would take a punt on aftermarket. So far so good.

The proof of scanning - a must for modern vehicles Imagine the guesswork & time involved in diagnosing without

Sounds very suspicious. If the adjusters are working as they should be then no they shouldn't need continual realighning. Has the E30 got the inside load adjustment control for headlights? - Some WOF muppets don't know about these.

Yep welcome - E39 in Black & 540I - sounding good! As mentioned - band expanders = CRAP in these vehicles. Can help you with both radio & nav but there is no "cheap fix" for them Glenn has posted my work number or PM me for options Cheers Grant

Yep - Dead right - forgot about all that too. Another option is to convert the Motronic engine managment to suit Ljet Need to fit distributor in place of blank Change water pump, front covers (remove motronic distributor) Swap engine looms