hotwire

^^^ Yep - It's still the ideal "rear wheel drive" concept which is far more predicable (except for seat warmers)

Where i used to work about 10 yrs ago, we had a fuel injector service machine & ultra sonic bath.

At the time we charged $40 per injector which entailed:

Running them through the machine to flush/check operation, & compare each for flow rate, spray pattern, leak down. Then strip filter baskets, pintel caps & seals & run in ultra sonic bath.

New baskets, seals, pintel caps then rerun through the machine to recheck & compare for even pattern & flow rate.

Very rarely did we have to bin any.

I miss having access to that machine now.

By your description you are simply stabbing in the dark & wasting money in the process. Wiper switch was hardly cheap when it was not required. Take it to an auto sparky to get it checked properly!

That is one nice E39 Gordon. Yep Jap imports here certainly raised the numbers of them here.

How is the sound Brent? Read some reviews of it that were not very complimentary on that part for this unit. have they fixed the issue?

Absolute crap service! Take it back again & tell them to fix it properly!!!!

From your original post saying jump starting with another battery & it started correctly suggested a battery/connection issue.

Where did you jump at - the battery or jump points under the bonnet?

Fair call on the glow plugs, made sense to replace them all.

Wasn't meaning you needed to take it to the dealers. Just a decent auto sparky, which by the sound of it is onto it.

820cca is fine but as i alluded to - age means nothing. Batteries can last 5 mins or 15yrs

When still in the car, i use a socket/bar & the starter motor to crack it, works every time

With respect i come across so many people who try to trouble shoot themselves - without knowledge nor test equipment & come completely unstuck.

Replacing all glow plugs on a whim without confirming them actually faulty is proof of above.

It is a 5 min job for a sparky to confirm for sure if the battery is weak or not. Being new/near new means nought! Under 9v cranking is dubious if that is infact correct. Has it the correct battery in it? I see plenty that have cheap skated & then burnt themselves with under capacity.

From what you say there would appear to be a voltage issue.

Take it to an auto sparky & get it checked properly

Surely the best bet is to go back to them?

Adding to - Bars Bugs is known to eat the washer pumps too. Had the E39 one fail @ about 6 yrs. Was told by the parts guy @ CJ that Bars Bugs causes pump failure. Replacement unit been on since & all good - been using BMW fluid

^^^ Have bought several times from them & seen the warranty offer, each time i think to myself what the challenge would be if i was to request warranty.

At best there would be shipping involved in which case, would often nullify the effort/cost.

12 hours ago, 3pedals said:

The problem with relying on Darwin is that the idiots often take out innocent people who should be in the gene pool.

We all seem to agree that the standards and their application are the root causes , but we shouldn't just blame the politicians, they act on our signals as well and we bang on about nanny states and over regulation so we are contributors. 

Competence and experience are becoming rarer across  all of our activities, how many people change a wheel these days - they simply call the AA, how many can build a shed or retaining wall,  we now have to assess our machine operators annually and train them because many do not have the " I want to be better at this atttude"  they simply come to work to get the money. And driving has now become an inconvenence that gets in the way of being on social media for so many. 

 

Totally agree!

12 hours ago, gjm said:

Speeding, mate... It's all about the speed. Or so we are continually told.

Of course, placing wire strand barriers on either side of the highway, reducing available space for vehicles who have stopped for any reason to get away from the carriageway, won't be a factor. Even the police are up in arms about this - when they are pulling speeding motorists, they now place themselves, the person they are stopping, and other road users at increased risk. Some f%&#wit at a council obviously thought this was a good idea.

Poor driving standards (which aren't addressed in any way whatsoever) remain the biggest issue on NZ roads. That's too hard though, so let's go after people who are speeding instead.

Yup the wire side barriers - which muppet in NZTA (or whatever they call themselves) thought this one up? Might be a fine on the new expressways where there is a wide runoff, but a section of SH 3 north of Te Awamutu is f####en ridiculous for the above reasons.

I am now attending AA call outs on the said road - car stopped, tyre changes etc. It can be bloody unnerving, adding to - not many cars bother to even slow to go past. Trucks & busses do though. Funny that - good experienced drivers.

When this "upgrade" was first mooted by the authorities. there was plenty of anger with locals. Some "mouth piece" for the said authority put their reasoning in the local rag - to stop vehicles "spearing off the road"  Worst case scenario was through a fence into a paddock!

As is agreed on here - incompetent driving is at fault.

I will say though, my son got his licence mid last year. There is a pretty thorough practical test to complete. My hope is these kids are going to gain some decent skill level as time goes on.

On 27/02/2018 at 10:23 PM, drtimwright said:

In case anyone's interested, I'm half way through the replacement.

I found the right gasket, oil filter, and shift selector seal on trademe. They came from Australia.

So far I've managed to do the hard bits. Tuesday night:

• Drain the oil (thick black crud)
• Remove the oil pan (more thick black crud)
• Remove the filter (lots of extra yucky oil comes out)
• Remove the valve cover
• Remove the shift selector seal
• Install the new seal
• Reinstall the valve cover
  • Note that you don't actually have to remove and reinstall the valve cover in order to replace the shift selector seal. You can dig it out from the outside using a screwdriver. Of course, I didn't know this until the (heavy) valve cover was out.
• Have a shower because I was covered in oil

Wednesday night:

• Torque the valve cover screws to spec
• Replace the old oil filter & oil pan, torque screws to spec
• Buy a socket that will fit the oil fill screw (only BNT seemed to have a 17mm hex driver)
• Fill with oil (damn that was messy)
• Take for test drive (it was awesome! Much better shifting and power)
• Check the oil wasn't still leaking (spoiler: it had stopped leaking)
• Took another shower for the same reasons.

2 weeks later:

• Remove oil pan and filter again
• Install new filter
• Replace oil pan
• Fill with oil

The most surprising thing was how dirty the oil was on the second change. I've got enough oil to change it again, so might do that after a few hundred more kms. But after this change (oil and filter) the car was even more peppy - changing gears even faster than before. Wish I'd done it before the driver training day!

Tim

The torque converter would still have been full of fluid - hence the dirty fluid second time around. Sounds as if it does need another flush.

Appreciate the fixes but why cant the forum itself be fixed without having to mod things?

That unit looks a lot more OEM looking than the Dynavins etc

17 hours ago, Young Thrash Driver said:

Mazda6 requires you to go thru the wheel arch liner to replace the low beam bulb

So do some Toyota's. One Honda Stream requires removing the whole front & the lights!

On 10/04/2018 at 4:17 PM, gjm said:

Much humour.

I've been working on a Land Rover the last couple of days. Whose idea was it to use a slot-head screw on one side, and a nut on the other, necessitating 2m long arms so you can actually get to both sides?
Haven't these people heard of captive nuts?

That has been a pom trait from the year dot. British Leyland comes to mind...

Get a Hella Endurent from a Battery Town supplier, or if feeling flush - a Varta

http://www.speedhunters.com/2018/04/f11-m5r-touring-building-bmw-wouldnt/

I have done an electric pump on a car at work. Intermittent fault code but could watch the erratic operation of the pump on current data.

Have only done the one but i understand they are a fairly common failure.

It is not a DIY job without tools & AC equipment.

Look up an AC specialist in Auckland