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hotwire

Race Series Competitors
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Posts posted by hotwire


  1. Have done plenty of R12 - R134 retrofits.

    All i have ever done is evacuate the system, fit R134 retrofit adaptor ports (they screw on to the old R12 ports), pressure test, if good then replace the receiver/drier & attached o rings (not all the rest) vac down & regas with R134.  Simple!

    May be cheating somewhat but it works fine.


  2. New module or S/H?  New unit unlikely to be faulty

    If new - did it initially fix the issue? If not  - it must have been miss diagnosed

    If S/H it could still be a faulty unit. They can fail in multiple ways - no fault codes, incorrect code, or a book of incorrect codes. Have seen them all.

    Power Stop in Tauranga can test/ repair the modules


  3. Yes that hose connects to the top centre of the battery case. The hose has a right angle plastic piece that pushes into a hole in the battery case. As above - it is there to vent the battery to outside the car - it should be in place. All DIN batteries come with this port. They come with a bung in the hole, this is taken out & the hose inserted when the battery is installed.

    Can't say I have ever seen an E39 leaking water there.

    Other modules you mention: The front silver box (blue & white plugs) is the video module - produces TV (well it did) controls screen graphics if no Nav unit is installed, & controls the reverse camera that you are going to fit:P

    Other silver box on the left is the radio tuner & yes the black unit is the amp.

    Edit - the white socket is not used unless a Nav unit is in the car. It will be utilised when you fit that camera though:-        The video module functions (apart from reverse camera) all operate from the blue connector.

    • Like 1

  4. On 15/09/2017 at 1:35 PM, E30 325i Rag-Top said:

    Started putting things back together again after pulling the head off the race car. Blowing coolant out due to exhaust gases getting in the system, pressure check of head came back good, and a bit of a weld on a corroded wateway should do the trick fingers crossed. Now to get the whole lot back together and adjusted - fun, fun, fun.

    Wife's E46 has had the airbags done, but found another couple of issues that need attending to...

    And the convertible is still sitting there patiently waiting for some new parts and TLC.

    I am beginning to get a bit over all these car problems, they are supposed to be "fun" right??

    So you're over car issues. No wonder i have little to no motivation for working on the cars around home. And after all week & virtually 24hr AA duty, that i do have is getting less...


  5. My Karcher is about the same age as your Dynamic & probably the same spec. It too cost $900 from memory. About the same weight too...

    I also got one of those dirt blaster attachment nozzles - transforms the machine & hasn't had the original lance on it since.

    I have also had it to bits a couple of times over the years, new pump housing at one stage. Has been a great machine though.

    Graham - I do recommend you up your budget if you can.


  6. As Andrew said above - check the flow specs. Cheapy water blasters boast on their pressure output, look at their flow specs & it is minimal.

    From memory our old Karcher water blaster is about 9 or 11 (can't recall) L/M. It is years old & was expensive at the time & bought on it's spec.

    Pressure is nothing without flow.

    • Like 2

  7. 1 hour ago, Michael. said:

    Interior, Idrive was a step backwards far too complicated, now it's dated and annoying to use. The dash board center console is exceptionally boring, has no flow into the lower console, and the  design and the door cards as they droop down doesn't add to a positive ambiance, they give off a rather depressing vibe. The E39 interior is such a nicer place to be, it's like it was designed by people that cared about what they were doing, E60 more so a quick coffee break design. 

    Agree with you on this one Michael. Without any bias too...:ph34r:

    • Like 1

  8. Do the plastic heater pipes (out of the head) too while you are in there. I have replaced them on cars at work after they have failed.

    Had to replace my CCV last year, while doing that i did all the breather pipes, manifold/throttle body seals, above heater pipes & thermostat all as preventative maintenance.

    • Like 1

  9. 2 hours ago, tawa said:

    Great project, and that's some excellent work on the diff! but I've got concerns that welding is not ticking the 'no compromises' boxes. Sticking metal to metal is just one part, the join should be uniform and not create any sharp transitions which will create stress raisers and lead to cracking... Whether it is just academic or actually going to be a potential issue is beyond my experience, I'd suggest you get in touch with your certifier asap.

    Yep, without being critical. I too am dubious of the welds - there doesn't look much penetration. Loving what you are doing though...

    • Like 1
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