hotwire

If a Dynavin was fitted in place of a factory monitor then another loom would have to have been run from the Dynavin to the radio module in the boot.

If the car is equipped with standard radio in the dash the the Dynavin is plug & play

E39 unit is different. The e46 unit  (as pictured) has a ridge on the front face about 2/3 up - to match the dash. The E39 has a flat face.

Why not just get a new one?

Doors with lower moulding look to be E12 along with the boot lid. Door shells can also fit E28

Not sure on the rest

Just lift the car, rotate the driveshaft to check wheel/driveshaft ratio

Typically the Euro 325i is not LSD, unlike M. Most SA 325's had LSD

M version may well have come with 3.64. Have had a couple in the workshop in the last couple of months but not looked at the ratios on them.

What are you wanting to achieve?

3.73 for both auto & manual from what i've seen. Not seen many 325i's but from memory they have been the same

Yes, the rear half is the same on all. It is the front section that varies.

Just get a someone able (driveline specialist) to modify (extend) your auto front section to suit the box you are fitting - 240 or 260 

Can't recall the measurements other than the 260 has a 37mm shorter front section to the 240. I know this as i had a 240 shaft shortened when i converted my sons 325i to manual last year.

Hitched a ride to Auckland & back with a person driving somewhat like that. What a tiring trip - couldn't wait to get out of the car at the end...

Between that & the twitchy steering these late model Nissan people movers have

Mmmm hence why you have two

What's the difference with the front valance's - is the black one a Vitesse?

Ahh nice looking SD1. Have never owned one but always had a soft spot for. V8 version only though...

On 23/12/2017 at 10:16 PM, Mad_Max said:

 

Interesting, any thoughts or ideas what would cause the engine to flood? If it was a carb engine I can fully understand flooding being an issue and would be most likely culprit, but I've never seen a FI car flooding unless someone has messed with the fuel maps? Not knocking your suggestion at all, I'm wondering what would cause it.

It is a total myth on only carb engines flooding.

I go out on "no start" AA calls to find a flooded engine frequently - probably once a week on average. All are fuel injected. All but every time can be traced back to the last time the engine was started. It has always been started then stopped, usually moving out of the garage to wash then moving back or moving the car to access another. Next day the car will not start. 

The engine is running on fuel enrichment for cold start/run - as with the old school choke, so more fuel/cold engine & the excess fuel sits there. If the engine next time does not start on first catch then the problem just compounds - giving your symptom.

It will not be the alarm/immobiliser, nor fuel if it has pressure in the rail.

Before you go replacing all parts on a whim, make sure you have good battery & crank the engine WOT & see if it will clear & start. Otherwise remove the plugs & see if they are wet.

I would suspect the engine is flooded given by your description. 

Nice machine work!

Sorry, I'm on a different page then. As you were:-

6 hours ago, Michael. said:

Yep its the same thing for battery electric cars, taxing to make the big heavy batteries that have a life span, and it just shifts the load from petrol / diesel to the electric grid which in most places is still those terrrrible fossil fuels like coal. 

The real electric car revolution wont begin until a long term solution is found, that exists as hydrogen fuel cell cars with very small or no batteries, hydrogen is an abundant resource, yes it require processing to gather and infrastructure needs to be build but its a similar model to LPG, and could easily be implemented in regular fuel stations. 

The fact a hydrogen car can be gassed up like a petrol, diese or LPG/CNG vehicle is exactly what the consumer wants. 

Depending on a battery that will go flat and takes at least 30 minutes to get a short range charge is taking steps backwards. It could work for some people that drive short distances and can charge it over night but I'm thinking of the bigger picture. The ease of long distance travelling is what has made the car so good for the last 100 years or so, that wouldnt have been the case waiting between trips when it runs out of fuel! 

 

Well said, couldn't agree more

If electric continues with battery power & becomes mainstream, I recon i will start a towing company. There will be big demand for all the cars that run out of battery in the middle of nowhere....

Reading this, you ^^^^^ are the one confusing the issue & very vague in your description. What the others have said is consistent & makes sense.

Haven't specifically noted the E34 pedal box (even though I sold one a few weeks back) but, if as i imagine, & they are the same setup as the E30 then the connecting rod has a clip to remove. Otherwise undo the bolt, remove the pedals & swap pedals & the longer bolt in place of the auto pedal - did this in the last E30 conversion a few months back.

Good to see someone else agreeing on low beam lights being good. Admittedly mine is a pre & with good clear lenses & they would be as good, if not better than any other car i have owned. Have upgraded to the HB3 HB4 +120 bulbs which also makes a big improvement.

I am the first to criticise a car with crap lights.

Allan I am bemused by your E39 evaluation faults/cons. In 14 yrs & 160kms (now at 180km) from your list we have only had a few of those fails. Namely CCV/hoses, water pump, seat shroud, pixel failure & rear wheel bearings & rear control arms. None of the others have been an issue.

That said, all the cooling system bar the radiator has been replaced as preventative maintainance. Brakes as required but no more than any other vehicle. Both headlight beams are great - if the lenses are clear

Final stage resistors are a potential issue on all BMW's E36 on, & dare i say on most Jap cars too- more so than BMW

Have not seen any with leaking tail lights, nor have i repaired any boot wiring in one - as i have with many other cars. Belts, tensioners & oil leaks, again not prone to & no more than any other vehicle.

Pixel issue is a VDO problem & is common to most Euro cars.

Rear visibility -not a problem with a bordmonitor & integrated reverse camera 

I agree, they do have weak links as you mention. That said, as a car they take some beating.  I'm certainly in no hurry to replace it. 

I can see the issue with the more complex airbag systems. I noted in another post the requirements to delete these.

This however, is an all in one incorporated steering wheel system (no external warning light), & no other external parts like belt pre tensioners.

I am all for legality but in your case it is a simple - replace the wheel, & no one is any the wiser. It is simply back to the spec of an E36 non airbag specced car.

The later more complex systems are a different story

One on a car in our workshop atm but I think the owner may miss it somehow...

Yep he knows that. He means E30