will

My wagon is doing this at the moment. Both sensors are fine, checked for continuity, tried the shorting trick, no difference, light stayed on, so removed the bulb. Brake pads are new so have many K's before I need to check it again. The wiring loom has seen some plonker into it at some stage so I suspect that the circuit is damaged and open circuit. I will fix it when I am bored but in the meantime the bulb removed got it through a warrant. I can send you a wiring loom diagram if you want to try to trace it. Will

I used to live in Motuoapa, and had an equally spectacular view of the lake, but of Taupo and the western bays. I miss it now and envy you. Miss the spectacular sunsets that you seem to have every evening.. Will certainly drop in if we are down that way.. Will Pic from our deck..

Graham is learning from the king mcp..

ferry not big enough for the combined fleet..

Emma That is what we are trying to get Keithi to do (pic is of random chick..), work on our BM's while Graham and I supervise and sort out a few beers. If you want to volunteer, we have application forms.. Will

Welcome David Your car sure looks mint!! You and Emma (BMW POWER) (not our own Emma from the far north) probably have the mintest on the forum.. great to see! We have a northern meet this coming weekend up in Kerikeri area, would welcome you up here... check the meetings forum for details or PM me for more info. Will

Hey Keithi, this is what Graham and I want out of you.. hahahaha!! (plus those chicks, of course.. )

hahaha, suppose so! what I was trying to say was fitting a Mtech2 kit to a pre-facelift body is not straightfoward. (but do-able). fitting a Mtech1 kit to a facelift body is a ton of work, and not worth doing. I have done both fittings, so this is my opinion.. still clear as mud..??? Will

Andrew's car is not really you average mildly tuned 325. It has quite a few mods done to it including Link etc. It runs well against some of the better cars on Puke (eats the "normal" 325's), so I wouldn't be suprised if it had 185rwhp. Will

Don't know the car, but check for fsh and. if it has it, check for what has been done. If it doesn't have fsh, I would avoid it. Also, get full check from BMW to confirm current condition etc. (Pic of driver's seat seems to suggest a high mileage). Will

Have a good one young fella..

The ones I got were ally outers, asked the question from the sellers and made sure they wern't the plastic ones. They come up from the USA occasionally but the asking price is usually much higher. Put an ad on www.E30zone.net Will

You can make the front/rear spoilers fit but you need to use the pre-fl bumpers and make up bumper brackets and a few other adjustments. It is a real fiddly job and not worth the effort imo because you age a f/l back to pre-f/l. I have done both conversions.. pre-f/l with f/l kit and f/l with pre-f/l kit, the pre-f/l with f/l kit is by far the easier and worth doing, not the other way around. Will

example... reference from tardeme Auction Number: 87833831 Statement: Pre-facelift 316's were 1600cc not 1800cc. posted by: blackhawk1 (42 ) 11:02 am, Tue 13 Feb Response: The 316 used a 1766 cc M10 fed by a carburettor. In 1988 the E30 was revised. The revision contained changes in the engine department. The 316 was replaced by a 316i, which used a 1600 version of the M40 producing 75 kW/100 hp. Not quite as torquey as the 66 kW/88 hp 1800 M10 it replaced. In some markets, like South Africa and possibly NZ, the old M10 powered 316 continued a lot longer, gaining the new bumpers of the other models (face lift). But thanks for the question. 8:43 pm, Tue 13 Feb fortunately this guy knew his stuff or his auction could have bee well and truly screwed by a certain know it all could quote more, many more, have personal experience in ill-infomed comments from same know it all stuffing things for me in an auction. Word.. if the only reason you open your mouth is to change feet, rather keep it shut!

should I mention the word 'dope'??

DOWN GIRL !!!

his is one of these nuts with a hex hole down the middle, not on the outside. Same theory, maybe an imperial size hex key slightly bigger and hammered in with Gus's all-conquering hammer would work??

thinking about it, ever heard of an "easy out"? Used to remove broken bolts by first drilling a hole down the centre of the broken-off stub, is a left-hand threaded thingymajig you screw into the hole. If you can get one big enough, it should do the trick. A good engineering shop should have one. If they do, it would only take a few minutes to get it out.. Will

If you get it up here next weekend, I'll get them off for you.

bet my hammer is bigger than your hammer gas axe for the win!!

I don't think so... think of dripping sarcasm..

try this.. Will

been away so missed yesterday, but enjoy being legal.. btw, there are a few of us bimmersporters that are more than 3X your age, so grant is still def a youngster. Will

HB youngster.. we certainly will celebrate up north. yum! Will

Chris, that is the oil pressure sender unit, they are prone to leaking around where the plastic end is crimped onto the metal body. There is no repair for it. Just replace it, they are not expensive. The thread that holds it into the block should be a tapered thread, they do not normally leak unless the unit has come loose for some reason. Try tightening it but I wouldn't think it would come loose easily because of the taper. You shouldn't use thread tape on a tapered thread. I have known that plastic bit to blow out completely so I wouldn't chance a long trip with it in case it does. If it goes, it will empty your sump in a few seconds at the speeds you travel at.. Ollie recently posted about the same problem, he has blown 3 of them recently.. Will