will

surely you mean mtech2 sucks..???

Not sure if this will work but here goes.. Guy working drill probably named Gus...

Do you have an aftermarket alarm/immobiliser? If you have, use the override if it has one. Those bloody things are a major cause of things like this if cheap/fitted by an idiot.. The car will start even if the alternator is shagged as long as you put a fully charged battery in it. Were the headlights still coming on? If they were, there would likely have been enough volts left to run the car. Fuel pump is another point to check, as is spark. Check that your crank position sensor hasn't fallen off or has a damaged cable. This will kill the spark. Earthing etc.. good luck Will

Looking for a 3piece 16"BBS rim, or just the outer bit if anyone happens to have one. Outer lip width is 40mm measured from the inside if the bead lip to the middle joint. Pm of you have any bits or leads. Will

I'm another Will and this is a re-run..

If your fuel pump is in the fuel tank, the filter will be under the rhs sill near the rear wheel. Otherwise it will be in the engine bay down under the brake master cylinder.Will

Hayes has a pic of the "coolant heated throttle bypass valve".. idle valve in other words. Bentley has a pic of most other things including cold start injector. One other thing that you can check is the throttle position sensor switch, it is under the throttle housing. Check that it is correctly set up. Will

difficult starting, bad idle... sounds like an air leak into the intake system or the crankcase. Check all intake hoses and dipstick seal and oil filler cap for being airtight. The idle valve that is temp controlled on your car will be under the intake manifold in front of the starter. These pack up particularly if you havn't used antifreeze in the system. It is a strange looking thing with 2 coolant pipes and 2 air pipes going to it. Cold start valve is at the rear of the intake manifold. Will

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Don't suppose you need any encouragement to get merry??? Likewise I'll have a few on behalf... Will

If you put a diff out of another model (ie e28) and it is a medium case you will have to change the sideshaft flanges and the rear casing to fit the E30. That one you bought should be medium case.. Will

Anyone out there done a manual to electic sunroof conversion on an e30? I am going to convert my M325i to electric as I am sick of winding. Besides that, the black nob on the end of the handle has now come off and won't stay on. More irritation.. and I dumped 2 manual sunroof cars with good winders just before I moved to make matters worse.. but I still prefer electric anyway.. gismo freak that I am.. What I am trying to find out before I begin is whether I can simply remove the manual winder mechanism and put the electric motor in its place without removing the whole operating mechanism. If I have to dismantle the whole sunroof I will leave it for a sunny day. Fitting the wiring will be a piece of piss, just the other bit that worries me. must be one of the only things I have never attempted on an E30.. well there is always a first time I suppose. and no, I will NOT invite Gus along with his hammer to help... Will

David, measured a manual 320 shaft. The distance from the face of where the rubber "doughnut" to the centre of the universal joint is 605mm, pic attached. Pic is not of a manual shaft, just used it to illustrate the measurement points. Will

send him to me... I will train him in the proper use of a hammer... for a small fee of course...

Mate, the earthing of these cars is the root of all problems!!!! you need to check that the wires to the earthing points are clean and functional. So many problems caused by bad earths. Your main earth points are behind the cubby, under the rear seat and in the boot, depends on the model as to what goes to where. There are other minor earthing points around, ie the column switches earth on the column and DO work loose causing wiper etc faults... I have found Bosch to be better in BMW and NGK to be ok in other makes, NGK didn't seem to last well under severe driving in my bm's, but seemed ok in my various hotted up fords etc. My opinion anyway.. stay away from Champion plugs is all I can say... Will

Yup, the plug into the bottom of the C/L module does corrode... check that when you get the module out and spray with a corrosion inhibitor before reassembly. Yes, that rubber boot on the door jamb can be difficult to remove. Just persevere. Separating that plug is also a b*tch. I will post photo of how to do it when I get home if you don't succeed. Essentially when you get the rubber off, you will see 2 tabs on either side of the plug... these you need to squeeze inwards, even helping them release with a fine flat screwdriver, while pulling on the wires to separate the plugs. Undoing the door stop pin will help you get some more working room but be careful you don't open the door onto the fender and dent it... use a bit of cardboard on the fender edge to prevent this. The pins in that plug do corrode quite badly but normally your c/l will still work from the boot lock switch even if the driver's door is corroded and not working. You said yours isn't working from anywhere so I am targeting the module first and working outwards... Will

link Go to this topic. I put some pics up and a description of what you need to do to bypass the loom, or you can remove it completely like I normally do. Give me a yell if you need more info. PS I can't use my Topless profile at the moment as there is something wrong with it. Andrew is working on the problem so reply to this profile. Will

Yup, that's the one... I have a very well used copper hammer, had it for about 30 years now. Ball joint splitters are a waste of precious metal IMO... BTW, my chargeout rate for hammer expertise is a bargain at only $25..

The box is held in by those 2 self-tapping screws that will be below where the speaker hole is. The connector is the plug that joins the wiring to the box, the one I think you are referring to would be the wire that goes to the indicator repeater lamp. Refer to the pic, I have circled the 2 self-tappers you must remove. The circled wire is the one that goes to the repeater lamp and has nothing to do with the locking unit. I will attach 2 more pics below.. Will next pic is of the locking module with the connector plug circled. Check this for corrosion between the plug and the module pins. The last pic is a plastic thingy which should be above the module just below the speaker.. you need to get this out before you can get to the module. It is not held in with screws but can be a bitch to remove sometimes. (just discovered I can put more than 1 pic up at a time... silly old git that I am! ) I have a mountain of bits here so yell if you need anything or need more help. Will

The central locking module is prone to water damage where it is located. That would be my first port of call. If it is water damaged, find the source of the water and fix the leak, also make sure the drainage holes in the sills are clear, if they are blocked it won't help. If the module is full of water, clean it with a good electrical cleaner (dick smith has these) and dry and retry. This will often fix them, but not always. Check the pins in the plug connecting to the module are not corroded, another common fault. Again clean with a cleaner and spray with a water repellant compuund when assembling. Will

I hate to be the bringer of bad news but the symptoms you describe are typical of the board inside the gauge cluster being damaged. Often caused by the batteries that power the SI board leaking and corroding the tracks. To save yourself a lot of hassle, can't you track down a complete working dash gauge cluster and swap that first before going to the effort of checking all the wiring and senders.?? I am confident it is the cluster itself, but get those problems of fuses blowing fixed first so that you don't blow everything again... Will