Mike

I don't see how a fuel pump will make your car faster, unless you old one isn't up to the job. Pressure is controlled by the regulator. even cam, and intake/exhaust mods cost a lot for minor gains. Other common mods are bigger injectors, AFM and chip. I can't tell you how effective those are though, lots of different opinions around on effectiveness Most of the guys making decent power with M20's have done full performance builds and are stroked, bored, have head work, balanced etc. all big $$$

The was an E36 tds down the road from my olds house at one stage. the tds had extra grunt over the td, intercooled or something like that. Since the e28 and e30 (maybe earlier too) all 5's and 3's have been available as diesels in some markets

I'm pretty sure the e30's centerbore is 57.1mm, you might have to have those machined out. Looks like there'll be issues with the e30 bolts sticking out too far as well. If you want spacers just get ones with holes straight through and longer bolts/studs. Then theres all the legal issues with spacers. I just waited (3 years lol) and got wheels that fit properly.

^ what he said.

Power increases are pretty close to boost pressure. eg 0.5 bar will give roughly 50% power increase. Think of it as an extra half an atmosphere being forced in. Thing is becuase those leaf blowers would never create a +ve manifold pressure, I'd hardly call it 'forced induction'. 'assisted induction' would probably be more appropriate.

I highly doubt it. M30 pistons are all domed, will probably interfere with the head/valves. Not to mention the M30 pistons sit more than 10mm higher than M20 pistons.

I haven't used the GSD3's yet but I only hear good things about them. I'm tossing up between them or t1r for my next set.

Other than being bigger/stronger, are there any other advantages?

If the e36 M42s have the same headers as the E30's I doubt you'll be able to improve much on the OEM items, they're pretty nice from factory.

Thats why a quite a few people go with an uneven drop. I've gone 60/40 and with a sub box in the boot it sits pretty nicely.

Age: 20 Location: Chch/Welly Car Year/Model: 87 318i (modded and turbo'd) Insured value: $5000 Driving Record: clean, full license for 3 years Insurance company: AMI Insurance type (3rd party or full): 3rd party, F & T Additional features of insurance (road side rescue, windscreen): Free glass cover with no excess Yearly premium (inc GST): $160 (50% NCB) Excess: $1000 Comments on customer service: No complaints here

I know your pain chris, try putting a wax on after you've polished the alloy.

easily. Rust would be my biggest concern, Everything else is pretty easy to fix or replace, and plenty of people parting them out now .

exactly what andrew said. IMO go by general condition of car rather than mileage. Probably biggest engine problem you hear about is cooling/overheating related, (cracked heads, blown headgasket etc) so make sure cooling system is all good. (6cyl esp)

same here

the camber and toe kits are different. The camber ones mount inboard and have way more adjustment than the toe ones. I'm not sure if the toe kit would have enough adjustment for serious camber issues. However, the kit for toe uses 5-series bolts with special locking washers that rotate with the bolt. You can buy these from the stealer and just get someone to make up suitable plates that can be welded on. not sure if they came with instructions sorry.

I've only got some of the frame out of the car. Can't really see much when its in place anyway. It was that top part of the green bushing that gets in the way. Toe is the outer adjustment and camber is inner. You'll need to take a hammer to your floor pan if you got the taller camber ones like I got. Its also a mission removing the old bushings. I burnt and hacksawed out the subframe ones and used a 2 jaw puller to pull the T/A ones out. The IE ones will slide straight in though. worth doing though, the bushings made a huge difference.

Yip, check your other thread. not that useful sorry.

20mm front and 12mm rear, unless it has mtec suspension they may be bigger.

I've gone 60mm drop in front and 40mm rear, perfect stance IMO and gets warrants no worries, and that was with smaller tires as well. I never actually measured before and after so its possible my car is sitting a little high.

AFAIK only M10 with L-jet was 1.8L. All the 2.0 used carb or K-jet. The 1.8 ECU may work ok with the ECU, I'm not sure. You'd also have to swap dizzys and camshafts. The earlier dizzys spin a different direction. There are a few other differences out there as well. Early block may be missing holes for engine mounts. Oil pan, oil pump etc may need to be swapped depending on what car the engine is from. Intake manifold also needs to be swapped. Nothing is really a major, just may have to swap a fair bit of stuff over. Could be worth it if you got one dirt cheap and wanted a project. Would go better than 6cyl 320i if you got it working.

exactly. At current prices I could get 10 M10's with this years course costs Andy, I just went with LC-1 wideband. Its waiting in the states along with a few other bits and pieces.

I'll have a look at home and see what pics I've got. Most of it went together pretty well apart from thoses bushes. Just get yourself a few jacks to raise the subframe into place, and 2 people makes job sooo much easier. Gus is just... well... Gus

Turns out 256xxx KM and turbo are too much for the stock head gasket. Not exactly sure what caused the failure. I'd been having starting problems, cause was busted rotor/cap, so whether this could have exaggerated the problem? Also, wastegate was sticking at one point, have suspicion it was the boost taps fault. Boost hit close to 14psi before I realised but didn't notice any probs immediatly after and was only that high for fraction of second. After fixing and starting car I went for drive, nothing too brutal. Stopped at lights and noticed steam coming from exhaust pipe. Temp was normal, oil was fine but water was bubbly/frothy. Was still driving fine though. Basically, I'm not sure whether it was the higher than normal boost, 8psi with poor tune, or something else responsible. Its not too big a deal, just means 2.0L low comp motor will go in sooner than planned. I'll use my head (better flow) if I can determine what the CR will be, all I know is it will be lower than stock. I've also got wideband o2 on the way to rule out mixture problems.

I've done all this (grant modified subframe though) as well so feel free to ask away if you got any q's. I had to trim the lips on the IE subframe bushings. They were just too big to fit in with their kit. Also, wheel alignments are an absolute c**t. Tire shop wouldn't touch mine until I trimmed down a spanner, theres just no room to move a standard one. Lastly, because there is so little room in there I found it easiest to assemble the whole subframe assembly and then install the whole lot into the car at once. PITA but easier than trying to slide the trailing arm bolts through.