M3_Power

If your policy is one of market value then there's really no point getting a value done now for $12K - That only dictates a higher premium for now. It's at the time of loss that they look at market value and that's when you will more than likely have a fight with the insurance company trying to 'prove' its value. If your policy is one of agreed value then it's worth while getting a specialist valuer (not a car dealer) to value the car (if it is worth that much to you). Classic cars would be your best solution I think and just keep the km within the prescribed limit.

Protecta?? They do the M and AMG range as far as I know - not sure on the excess side of things ...

Very nice write up mate ... love those long never ending highways in the States!! I have two words for you ... "Las Vegas" ... haha ... my favourite place in the whole of USA ... and no I am not a gambler. Mind me asking what you are ddoing in Houston?? Have been to Dallas, but not Houston ...

Hybrid ... perhaps time for you to upgrade to that CSL front end look cheers for the photos though ... looks like a great job. Which body shop did you use?

Good question ... I am not entirely sure to be honest ... Perhaps Hybrid can help out with this one seeing that he has a genuine E46 M3 front bumper on his sedan ... so there must be a way to get this to fit?? But perhaps with quite a bit of work?

Okay ... I imported this bumper privately a couple of months back - was intending on using it as a track only use bumper (one that I can chuck on for the track days without worrying about damaging the $10K genuine item - yes that's how much they cost brand new from BMW !! ) But I've decided on a different route ... something with brake ducting instead ... and I can't bear to cut this one up ... Any how ... this bumper set me back $1500 to import including shipping, GST, Tariff, customs fees and customs agent fees ect ... (tax, GST and customs ect was a good $430) and exchange rate was sh*t house back then ... IT IS BRAND NEW NEVER MOUNTED!!!! I took it out of the box obviously to inspect ect .. This is one of the better fitment ones out there (almost perfect fitment - as you can see from the photos below) - yes I researched this thoroughly before buying. It's made of ABS plastic with carbon flippers. Ready for paint. Now it's not a 100% CSL replica bumper (I'll tell the person buying it what exactly aren't the same .. can't be bothered typing it out here) .. but close enough that the lay person won't be able to tell the difference. In my opinion it's pretty well made. Want to get as much money back as possible obviously ... so looking at offers at the moment. NB ... it fits the E46 M3 the best (almost perfect according to the yanks that own this bumper) ... on normal E46 Coupes the sides will bulge out a little bit .. but not too bad.

Actually saw this car in person today whilst I was out getting takeaways .. didn't see the owner as it was in a car park. Have to say that from the outside it did look very tidy and well taken care of. Worth investigating for sure if one was in the market for one ... Not affiliated with the seller!!

Will get one up a bit later ... Not meaning to be rude or anything ... but are you wanting to buy these because you have a CSL or know somebody that does?? Just curious (I've been keeping a log on known CSL owners here in NZ, so if you are one please let me know).

Genuine E46 M3 CSL Carbon Fiber Splitters - "USED" Has stone chips and slight scrapping on the bottom (not noticeable when mounted and I've actually touched it up with clear coat with a brush, so it's even less noticeable now - very minor) - NOT CRACKED IN ANYWAY - Just needs a fresh new clear coat and it'll be as good as new. Surplus to my stash of spares. These retail for over $720+GST EACH from BMW brand new - so would set you back over $1440+GST for a set!!!!!! (Ring the parts department if you don't believe me) VERY HARD TO COME BY PARTS !!!! PM me for pricing.

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Genuine M3 CSL carbon fiber centre console - brand new still in dry carbon form (i.e. not clear coated) Carbon fiber centre console only - no mounting hardware or any of the buttons and plastic surrounds. These retail for over $3,186.00 +GST at BMW (if you don't believe me, ring the parts department and find out) PM me for price.

Thanks for the feedback fellas ... Have always intended for this to be helpful to those that are looking at getting into an E46 M3. Mods, feel free to move it to where ever you think the topic will best fit. CamB - I do believe that clutch testing procedure is written in the BMW SIB or TIS, can't remember which one, but it's there (perhaps not in exactly those words, but similar) - you don't really need to test it numerous times to find out if it's indeed slipping ... if it is, it'll show up on the first test. Have just updated the post .. will continue to do so as I get time to write it up. Have tried to refrain from putting in links ect .. just to try and keep it as neat and readable as possible. If any of you wanted more info on it, feel free to PM me and I'd happily send you the information or a link to it.

15/2/10 - SMG Info update 3/3/09 - Engine oil information update 24/04/09 - Updated rear subframe (first reported case of a CSL - extensive rear modificatoin and solid rear subframe mount - this case is more of an exception than the rule by the looks of things - the tear in the subframe was also quite minor compared to others I have seen) Well a friend of mine from the UK wanted to buy an used one of these and asked me about it. I decided to do a small write up for him on what to look out for when buying one. I've written it based on the 6 speed model (non SMG) and based on the UK specs (in terms of the CS model) - I will update this as I have time and include the SMG models and the CSL models. Most are based on my experience of these cars for the past 8 or more years and various research and reading from the net and some first hand experiences. It is by no means comprehensive and I will need to edit it from time to time. I thought it might be helpful to post this information up seeing that E46 M3s are starting to be very attractively priced. Errors and Omissions excepted: Models: E46 M3 (2000 ~ 2006) E46 M3 CSL (Jun - Dec 2003 only) The ultimate variant of this model E46 M3 CS (a watered down version of the CSL 2005 ~2006) Years to avoid: (in my opinion) 2000 ~ Aug 2003 production - Engine issues (big end bearing tolerance issue resulting in blown engines - worst affected year would be anything made in 2002. A full recall was done by BMW around the world on this, so should you be looking for a car in this age bracket, check with a main dealer that the big end bearing recall has been done) Desirability and model year changes: Whilst the CSL is the ultimate incarnation of the E46 M3, it isn't for everyone. It is a harsh car more suited to the track than the roads of Kensington. The alternative and perhaps a good compromise is the E46 M3 CS. This model has, in addition, to what you will find on an E46 M3: - CSL brakes (345mm on the fronts vs 325mm - larger rear pistons) - CSL suede steering wheel (very nice, but wears badly) - M-Track mode as found on the CSL (awesome on the track) - CSL steering rack 14.5:1 ratio (faster rack - absolutely brilliant) - CSL styled wheels - CSL exhaust system (except for the catalytic converter) The 'facelift' model came in early 2003: The main differences were: - LED tail lights (better looking and two stages depending on brake force applied); - longer boot handle (some say uglier) - Larger 16:9 navigation TV screen (if equipped) - Slightly different suspension, but hardly noticeable to be honest - more interior trim options (most came with the titanium trim) - some minor accessories became standard equipment (nothing to celebrate about) Issues: Focusing on the 3 main areas - mechanical, electrical and chassis I won't focus too much on usual wear and tear that you see on the inside of the car, as these should be obvious upon inspection. MECHANICAL: A. Engine big end bearing: - Original issue came from a third party bearing supplier tooling the tolerances too low, causing oil starvation and premature wear. - recall centered around new bearing sets and new oil pump. - recalled cars have been fine provided it was done properly in the first place. B. Rear differential:- Groaning noise when turning (when car is cold or first thing in the morning) - Actually normal given the high ratio multi plate locking diff that these cars carry. - There is a dealer SIB (service information bulletin) to correct this noise issue - involves a diff oil additive - majority of the cars will have had this done (but still prudent to check) - can get quite annoying after a while. C. Gearbox (6 speed manual): - As with all gearboxes, if treated well, they will last the miles. - Unit is made by Getreg (perhaps the best gearbox company out there), so it is a reasonably reliable gearbox, but higher mileage ones have known to wear synchromesh causing a grinding noise (usually 2nd and 3rd gear). New gearboxes are expensive. - Life time fluid isn't really life time - best to have it changed every 2 years. - Gearbox bracket bushes can wear if driven hard or car tracked often - When purchasing have these inspected as they are reasonably tricky to get to to replace. D. Clutch and flywheel: - Clutch wear depends on the driver. Being a self adjustable clutch kit you can't actually physically feel a difference through clutch engagement point (the self adjusting pressure plate supposedly keeps the engagement point the same throughout the clutch life - the clutch delay valve also hinders this feel in the pedal) - Best way to test this is to throw the car in 3rd gear, push down on the clutch, rev the engine to about 6500 - 7000rpm and drop the clutch and see if it slips (climbing revs without the incidental speed increase) or if you spin up the rear end and feel a thump in the drive train (clutch is good). - There's a usual clonking sound when the clutch pedal is pushed down (especially when coming to a stop abruptly) - this is normal (although you really have to know what you are listening to as there are other abnormal rear end clunks on this car) - this noise is simply the drive train slack and does not affect the overall operation or longevity of the vehicle. - There are some reported cases of flywheel issues, but not common (resultant humming sound) Personally I wouldn't really worry about this one - it's more an acoustic issue than mechanical (it's related to the dual mass flywheel) E. Vanos System: - the S54 engine vanos system is what's known as a high oil pressure system. Being dual vanos it operates on both the intake and exhaust side. - The system is a lot more reliable than those found in the E36 M3 - If you hear rattling noise like marbles in a can coming from the vanos system on start up ... walk away - Or if you hear similar sound as above with rising revs ... walk away. - very expensive to repair if broken ELECTRICAL: A. Ignition Coil: - these are known to fail - no particular cause really - just a wear and tear item. - Check that all cylinders are firing correctly - if not, usually it's due to a bad coil. - easy to DIY, but expensive part to purchase. B. Window regulators: - Expensive part - Have been known to fail on occasions - check that the windows go up and down smoothly and without odd noises from the motor. C. Passenger side airbag sensor mat: - Common part on the BMW to fail for some reason - expensive part (some NZ$380) - Airbag warning light comes on - easy to DIY, but very annoying fix, because you have to take the car to the dealership to have it recoded. D. Alternator and Battery - These are known to go between 60 - 80k km ... especially the alternator. - expensive part brand new from BMW ($1200 for the alternator) - Batteries are about $250 E. Everything else electrical on this car: - Being a modern BMW, nearly ever aspect of the car is electronically controlled, this will mean a trip to the dealer for them to hook it up onto a dealership service computer to clear error codes or to simply programming in new replacement parts before it will start to work. - Luckily not a common occurrence CHASSIS: A. Springs and shocks: - the rear springs are known to snap (attributable to weather condition and other factors - ie. salt on the roads) - It is a warranty repair item, but do check for broken rear springs. - You should hear a noticeable clunk noise when going over bumps and judder bars - Shocks do wear out after about 70,000km (lack of damping or rebound characteristics - i.e. lack of control - M3s should drive like its on rails) - Original shocks can be quite expensive - aftermarket alternatives makes much more sense when they wear out (popular upgrade also) B. Rear Shock Mount: - This is the rubber mount on the rear shock - a very weak design in the car and is known to crack and break - Take off the rear wheel to inspect (look up at the shock mount and look for cracks in the rubber) - Usually require changing after 30,000km and shorter if car is tracked. - If not attended to can lead to torn rear subframe mount and floor (see below) C. Rear Trailing Arm bush (RTAB): - common failure part - circa 50,000km - can only be seen with car up on a hoist - usual cracks in the rubber - this is a very important bush as it controls lateral movement in the suspension and twisting action from the rear chassis torque transfer - if left unattended can lead to subframe mount and floor cracks (see below) - Cheap part, although labour intensive to replace (I have a special tool for this, so not to worry) - Common upgrade is polyurethane bushes (if the car came with these, all the better) - you will hear some creaking noise however with poly bushes - to test if the RTAB is worn, you will notice the following: - Wallowing rear end under acceleration and braking (i.e. the car moves from side to side under heavy acceleration in a rolling start) - the car pulls to one side excessively when braking hard - Knocking sound when turning (although this can be something else also) - Generally speaking the rear end won't feel 'planted' - test this on a flat straight surface D. Front Control Arm bush: - the front equivalent of the rear trailing arm (the bush is located on the aluminum front lower control arm (triangular shape)) - Inspection from under the car - wears out like the RTAB - Front end instability under heavy braking (pulls to one side or wallowing) - Cheap part, but a pain in the ... to change E. Rear Subframe Mounting Floor: - Unfortunately the E46 chassis suffers from a similar catastrophic chassis failure like the E36s - The rear subframe mounting floor can crack and be completely torn off if: - the car has been abused excessively (wheel spins, drifting ect) - Heavily tracked without constant monitoring of the rear bushes - hard impact damage from pot holes - worn RTAB, rear shock mount, and rear subframe bushes - Lift up the boot floor carpet and look for stress cracks in the metal floor (look at the metal joints and sealed joints) - Look under the car floor by the rear subframe mount points (there are 4) - the rear subframe is the big black metal bracket that the rear differential is bolted to (check the rear diff bushes also). - The common points that tend to get torn first is (looking from the rear of the vehicle) left front and right rear - but check all 4 mounting points. - You really need to have the car up on a hoist to check this - Cars made after late 2003/early 2004 had a different rear subframe carrier floor mounted and are supposedly less likely to develop this failure. - the only way to fix this is to disassemble the whole rear end, including taking out the fuel tank and lots of welding. There are re-enforcement kits out there - if you are buying a car with this re-enforcement kit already installed then all the better (provided it was done properly) - Some cars don't actually have a noticeable knocking noise from the rear until the floor is completely torn off (so seeing is better than hearing for diagnostic) - There is a BMW TIS information on this and allows for initial stress fracture repair using and injected structural form. Only works if the stress lines are less than 20mm either side of the mounting hole - anything larger and it's a full floor repair. - [Edit 24/4/09] - THERE'S now been one CSL reported with the subframe tear (Steve Gill's car - he frequents the Nurburgring A LOT (lots of his videos on youtube) - it's a fully resprayed Alpine White CSL) - Few things that make this case unique however - this car runs SOLID rear subframe mounts rather than rubber bushes and it also runs Intrax full coilovers including the rear with really heavy spring rates (stock set up has separate springs and damper set up) - Given the extensive tracking of Steve's car and the solid rear modifications (no roll cage or bar) one can assume that this might be an exception - there fore the comment below would still stand in my opinion ------ No CSLs have been known to have this issue (as strange as it may sound, it is a fact - one would think that a torque induced stress failure would be more prevalent on a higher powered car with almost slick tyres, yet there have been no reported failures on CSLs - some have suggested that this may be a weight thing, given the CSLs are over a 100kg lighter; others propose that CSL owners are fanatics and maintain their cars to a lot higher standard, hence the lack of the failures) So that's about all the MAJOR issues you need to know when looking for an E46 M3. Don't be phased about buying one because one of the above could potentially go wrong - the reality is, it is a rare occurrence and good examples are aplenty if you take the time and effort to look for it. There are a couple of things that I have not gone into, such as worn brakes, brake discs (warping - juddering under braking) - or accident damage repairs (which should be obvious). ENGINE OIL .... THERE IS ONLY 1: - There are mixed information out there about the engine oil for the S54B32, some say there's two approved oil out there, whilst others stand by the fact that there's only 1 approved BMW engine oil for this motor. - THERE IS ONLY ONE APPROVED BMW ENGINE OIL FOR THIS MOTOR PERIOD!! So where's the confusion coming from? - well put simply, different branding between different continents. And the initial information from BMW that Castrol RS 10W-60 was also an approved oil in the Training manual for the S54B32 - it no longer is and have not been since end of 2002 when engines started blowing up. The ONLY Approved oil is: Castrol TWS 10W-60 (or the UK equivalent Castrol Edge 10W-60) - These two are the SAME OIL, just different branding between different continents. Castrol Edge "Sport" 10w-60 IS NOT AN APPROVED OIL and not the same as the UK version of Castrol Edge 10w-60 Here's the spec for the TWS TWS Motorsport 10-60 Relative density @ 20.0 deg C = 0.865 Viscosity at 40 deg C = 163.1 Viscosity at 100 deg C = 24.3 Viscosity Index = 181 Flash Point (closed) deg C = 198 Pour point deg C = -42 TBN = 8.1 Information on: Castrol Edge in the UK http://www.castrol.com/castrol/productdeta...ntentId=7027067 Castrol TWS data sheet http://www.tds.castrol.com.au/pdf/4247_TWS...397_2006_09.pdf In comparison to Castrol Edge "sport" data sheet (you'll notice quite a difference between the two) http://www.tds.castrol.com.au/pdf/4398_EDG...0W60_200601.pdf So remember to put the correct oil into your motor. Oil spec SMG Info: I would do a write up on SMG, but to be honest I'd just be repeating this thread http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=231113 The above is the best source for all things SMG (bar the workshop manual and service tech information booklet). There's a couple of things that can go wrong with the SMG, mainly eletrical (relays, sensors - there's multiple of them) and some hydraulic (the pump itself or the pressure accumulator) and the least mechanical (compression spring or synchronmesh). All in all it is actually a fairly reliable system - the trouble is your generic OBD2 tools can't diagnose what is wrong with it. If any of you with a SMGII or SMGIII car wants a diagnostic on the Autoenginuity tool, hit me up - more than happy to hook it up and see what is wrong with it.

This one? http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-205463470.htm 80 milliseconds for the fastest shifting mode - just slightly slower than a very good professional driver if I am not mistaken. It is very harsh on the drivetrain on this mode and I personally don't recommend it unless you were on the track. Best programs to be driving around in around town would be S3 or S4. Auto mode isn't actually too bad if you know what to anticipate, but it can be a jerky if not driven properly. I would say this. Having owned two E46 M3s in 3 pedal manual and the CSL in SMG only, I have to say that the SMG trumps the 6 speed in every way. It's a better system period - you just have to learn to drive it. Most make the mistake and think the car is a tiptronic of some sort - forget that mind set and drive it like you would a manual car and it's brilliant and does everything perfectly everytime. You also get better clutch wear with the SMG - which is next to nothing, provided you get the clutch take up point reinitialised on a regular basis. Correct. The manual gearbox between the 6 speed and SMG is identical minus a few parts in the SMG box - but they are basically the same thing. There are two major components in the SMG - the SMG brain and the hydrailics. The hydraulics is actually very reliable - basically a pump with a high pressure accumulator and hydraulic lines - that's it. The rest of the system is controlled by the brain. Major known issues are: - SMG relay - controls the accumulator pump (salmon colour) - there was a recall on these and the new ones are very reliable. - SMG Pump - when these go, it's actually the accumulator that craps out, not the pump itself. But in true BMW fashion, you have to buy the whole thing, not just the accumulator - the pump is VERY expensive (over $2500 retail plus labour to fit - actually not a hard job, but it does require reprogramming via GT1) The system is self learning and the key with SMG is to "NOT TAKE YOUR FOOT OFF THE THROTTLE ON UP OR DOWN SHIFTS" - You should have trouble free motoring as a result with no issues of premature clutch wear, kangarooing down the road and clutch slurring issues. And if you are racing a SMG car ... get a cooler for the hydraulics.

Now on trademe for $200 no reserve. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.as...022&ed=true Forgot to add .. this fits all E46 Coupe BMW Part # 51442699065

Headliner out of car Ready for pick up. Honestly the minor blemish is hardly noticeable ... I only bought a new headliner because I am a little crazy haha (that and I just like to take things apart ) Make me an offer!!!

Headliner has since been removed from car ... ready for pick up. It is a motorsport headliner (only the motorsport ones are black) with no sunroof (but with the ultrasonic sensor alarm in the middle and vanity lights under the sunvisors). The reason this is came out of my CSL is because I am stripping it to make it into a racecar Just kidding. No the real reason is because there's a slightly imperfection on the driver's side (near the A pillar) - there was a glue over spill on it - no idea where this came from (about 5mm x 5mm measurement) and I tried to peel it off and instead ripped a very slight hole in the fabric of the headliner (about 1mm x 1mm) - it won't go any further as I've repatched the glue spill. The hole is actually barely noticeable, but the glue spill being white in appearance is noticeable (albeit very very small). I've already installed the new headliner, so this one is ready for pick up. Perfect if you've ever wanted to do a suede or alcantara conversion or any other form of custom headliner. VERY RARE AND HARD TO COME BY PART - I called quite a few wreckers and couldn't track one down in the country. These retail for ridiculous amount of money (over $700+GST new). Starting bid on trademe $200 no reserve http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.as...022&ed=true

Okay ... Because we can't get the numbers needed, so I've struck up a deal with Mike Eady. Those that are still interested, can join up at a BMW Driver training day - the normal one run by BMW. You'll be using BMW's cars and get given hot laps in an E92 M3 at the end of the day. Please PM me if you are interested and I'll provide the details. The driving day will be on the 17th February 2009. Limited places only.

Personally I think he failed as a designer - whether other manufacturers ended up copying or adapting his designs is irrelevant (seems to be the theme in the automotive world, to copy each other) Bottom line is he made a name for himself by creating controversy and mass criticism ... not for creating aesthetically pleasing cars. If I were a designer I'd rather be known for creating master pieces like Pinnifarina ...

http://www.autoblog.com/2009/02/03/breakin...-auto-industry/

Okay currently confirmed: 1. M3_Power 2. mrad01 3. Apex maybe? 4. Hi-Tek still quite far from the 20 we need ... I guess the economic climate's having an impact on everyone. No dates on the Taupo one yet - although there's more of a chance of that one happening if we can get this one going (otherwise I don't know how keen Mike will be to entertain another private group session).

Ex Japan I believe, brought in by Ace Motors a while back - it was on trademe for sale for ages ... But definitely a crazy conversion given the cost of the parts.

okay ... bit of an update. Spoke with Mike this morning and he's done a rethink on the pricing and the format of the day. Basically we need 20 committed people by the 5th Feb (thursday next week) otherwise the day will not go ahead. Date: 16th February 2009 COST: $275 (BUT NO FOOD OR DRINKS PROVIDED - BRING YOUR OWN!!!) Car type: ANY BMW (M or NOT) AND ANY MINIS (JCW or OTHERWISE) The day will be run on a similar format to the Mini drive days (stage 2) Basically you will get - briefing in the morning; signing indemnity forms ect (formality); - class room teaching about track driving and the course layout - practise on braking and turning (on the track) - learning important sections and corners (on foot and then in car) - Learning the proper lines - back straight slalom challenge (include the hairpin corner) - Lunch - Full circuit all afternoon in 2 groups. - Mike to take your own car around the circuit to show you what it can do (up to the owners individually of course and if they want to carry passengers) - I've yet to discuss this with Mike, but I don't see why he wouldn't be open to the idea (provided he's not liable for crashing your car of course Doubt that'll happen) Those that still think this is expensive compared to an open day for $100 (for which I've been to plenty of) need to consider this: - A normal BMW driver training day will set you back $500 (with food) - yet you are getting the same if not more from this day. - Track hire prices have gone up. - Mike's neck is on the line if anything goes wrong, so he has insurance considerations. - I can't stress this enough, but learning braking and how to take the proper lines is very important in any form of driver training. Just because you've been around Pukekohe plenty of times, doesn't mean that you know how to drive Pukekohe (trust me on this one) - there will be plenty of things about your own driving that Mike can point out even if he's not in the car with you. So if you are interested, please email or PM me straight away as soon as you can - so I can get a firm commitment for the day and collect payment for Mike. feel free to email me: aviemore.tom@xtra.co.nz

thanks for the compliment ... I love this car and consider it a BMW icon and intend on keeping it in tip top condition for many years to come.