nick496

Yeah, I saw those ones go up for sale, and wondered how much a new set would be. And 3k isn't too bad, though you'll also need to throw in centre caps and tyres. But at least they won't need to be refurbished. 

While a little on the high side for an e36, it does have the good mods done to it. Buy the e36. 

If an e30 with your specs pops up, for the same price as the e36, you'd have to fight 10 other people for it. 

Yeah, you're right Sammo, I recall there being discussions about such a swap given the chassis also had the same engine from factory, so might not require hoops. 
But couldn't find anything to back that up.

I'd say expect to put them in, but chat to your certifier about it.

Granted, it's a little different. But did it in the E30.

As MM says, unlikely to be picked up by anyone who doesn't know what they're looking for. It says BMW on the engine cover still.

But I'm done it the right way, to avoid any potential legal issues, which is as KwS says: 

34 minutes ago, KwS said:

Thats really bad advice. Not only should the car fail a WOF, and could be stickered by the Police, but your insurance will be void.

The process isnt too hard, especially if its all bolt in OEM gear. You'd need to check with a certifier if you need a driveshaft hoop or no, otherwise make sure the rest of the car is up to scratch too (good brakes, since it will have to undergo a brake fade test).

Providing you can use the driveshaft etc out of the donor, shouldn't be too much of a hassle to get it all certed.

Yes. I think I want some sway bars. 

Will have a better look tonight and flick you a pm. 

From what I could tell, OBD2 was standard on bmws on later e36s in the USA. 

I had a 2000 318ti, still didn't have OBD2. 

Just good old OBD1 which is the round plug in the engine bay. 

I personally wouldn't be looking at a low KMs E36 320i for 13k, especially if you're wanting to then just manual swap it.

Better off buying something like this https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/listing/2985237483?bof=8Z9MJgwM

Which is already manual, has the larger engine, and looks like it's been looked after a bit.

I'm assuming these are what you're referring to?

https://www.umnitza.com/browse-by-car-model/bmw/3-series/e30/projector30-153.html

Couldn't find too many other people running them in the E30 online, so don't think you'll see many people running them over here in NZ.

14 hours ago, SHRNTA said:

I managed to get a quote to NZ. was about AUD$39. 

Not too bad. 

@S3RIES

Let me know if you are going to place an order, and I'll join in to combine shipping. 

1 hour ago, gofaster said:

Bit if a c... up ordering the M3 gearbox mounts for my 130i.

Thought I would be clever and get some polyurethane ones from FCP Euro (Revshift PTM-BT 80A)  but upon removing the old ones, notice they need a bit of "flexibility" when removing/installing in/out of the slots in the mount - see pic.

Of course the Urethane ones dont move, so am stuck having to re-order standard rubber M3 mounts.

If you have done this before and have a better idea, I am all ears.

Cheers, John

Looks like it might still be able to fit. 

What if you unbolt the gearbox brace from the chassis, drop the gearbox down a touch, then slide the mounts onto the gearbox, then raise it up to bolt the brace to the chassis? 

Hmmm, it shows up for me in the trademe app. 

$5500 was the winning bid with reserve met. 

With regards to temperatures on the M52.

I originally ran an 88 degree thermostat in my swapped car, and the temperature needle sat bang on halfway. (Standard E36 6 cyl rad, with the 80/88c switch)
After doing a few track days and general use, I found my Aux electric fan only turned on when I either towed, (high revs slow speed), or sat in traffic on a hot day for a minute or so, before turning off.

Since the temperatures were consistent, I then swapped to the stock thermostat for the M52, which I believe is 96 degrees, in hopes of better fuel efficiency. 
This meant with no other changes to my cooling system, the E30 needle sat in the middle between halfway, and the 3/4 mark. 

My E36 rad later starting weeping, and I swapped to the Z3M rad, as it wasn't too much more than a standard replacement.

I will note though, that I never managed to put a temp gun to anything, as I ordered one from Aliexpress, played with a few times in my office, and when I went to use it in the garage, it stopped working.
But figured providing the temp needle was stable, I shouldn't have too many issues.
Though being able to read the actual temp might be useful later on.

1 hour ago, M3AN said:

I don't disagree with any of that Nick, indeed that's all the stuff I found amongst others. I think the highlighted bit above is the key... for example my interpretations was similar to your but differ to the LVV engineer guy's, then add in a page like this (including all the comments) and the confusion is just amplified, it's a minefield!

Oh gosh, a page with comments from 2012-2020

Yeah, that's why I reference the current standard which the modification is being measured to, because I believe your certifier signs off on things, and it then gets submitted to the pencil pushers who if they have any queries, will go back to that standard for any clarification. 

14 hours ago, M3AN said:

Anyway, he answered these questions which are either ambiguous, misleading or simply missing from the certification standard, leaving it up to the certifier and customer (if you're lucky) to interpret it and sort it out.

1. a spacer can have more holes in it than required for the application (e.g. a spacer that suits both a 4 and 5 stud car, so 9 holes, is fine). This is not clear in some parts of the requirement and ambiguous in others. 

2. A spacer must affix to either the wheel or hub (rotor) but, since there's no method specified and most can't be affixed, then simple heat resistant adhesive is good enough to stick it to the rotor hat (it's not load bearing and, being hub centric, can't move about). It's just to stop the spacer falling off when the wheel is removed and some numpty forgetting to put it back on.

3. All spacers must end up being wheel-centric (regardless of vehicle type) and this is real tricky in some applications. For a BWM we must use hub-centric spacers that have a wheel-centric flange on the outside unless...

4. The spacer is thin enough to allow the hub flange to extend beyond the spacer and engage with the wheel.

5. With <5mm spacers you probably don't need new wheel bolts but check they turn fully 6 times before torqueing them up.

His final bit of advice? If you already have a cert (I do) then don't bother with a new cert if you're using 3mm spacers, it's a waste of time and money because most WoF shops won't ask to see the cert or even know what to look for on a cert. Since my last warrant never even required sighting of the cert I can understand this advice, regardless of how prudent (read: legal) it actually is. But he did emphasis that you must use high quality wheel bolts or studs and nuts and never, ever aluminium.

Figured I'd pitch in here, since I've spent a lot of time looking over LVVTA's standards for wheels, brakes and spacers recently. 

Most of those points are all highlighted here: https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Wheels_&_Tyres.pdf
Granted, that's dated 2016, but I don't see any of these points being laxed, and if changed, would expect them to be tightened.

1. It can, for pressed steel wheels. However, for cast aluminium wheels: see 2.5(2) a: the spacer is designed to fit only one stud configuration.
This is clarified in the notes:  ‘Configuration’ means, within the context of 2.5(2)(a), that whilst a spacer can be of a multi-fitting design in that it fits varying pitch circle diameters, it must be of a type that will fit either a four-stud wheel or a five-stud wheel, but not both. Spacers that will fit both four-stud and five-stud wheels must not be used in any situations.

2. There is a method is pretty clearly spelt out in 2.5(1) f: be set-screwed or attached by another secure method to either the wheel or hub face; 

3 and 4, I think that's pretty spot on in 2.5(1) e: be fitted as to ensure the wheel locates snugly over the hub spigot so that the hub carries the weight of the wheel assembly instead of the wheel studs, or where there is a mis-match between the hub spigot and the wheel centre, a close tolerance fit center bore locator must be provided

5. I'll just nitpick on this one, it's 6.5 turns: 2.4(4) b, i: in the case of a 12 mm metric stud or bolt with a 1.5 mm coarse thread pitch, 6.5 turns OR in 2.4(4) c "in the case of an unmodified hub assembly, not less than that originally provided for the fitment by the original vehicle manufacturer." , but given that you've spaced it out, I'd say b would be applicable. 

This is all from the LVVTA standard, though as myself and may others have found, the interpretation is entirely up to the individual certifier, so what one certifier may say is acceptable, another may not.
In particular your local guys notes about using a heat resistant adhesive, some might pass that, and others might not. And then whether you get pulled up on it for a WoF is another story.

As your cert guy says, since you already have a cert, for spacers, it wouldn't be worth going in for a re-cert providing you meet all the criteria above.

But in terms of other modifications to your car that vary from it's initial certification:

What does your cert say in regards to your wheel size? Unless it's stamped OEM, most will specify a diameter and width (but oddly never offset, or tyre size)

With regards to brake calliper changes, that also would require a cert as per: https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/LVVTA_LVV_Cert_Threshold.pdf
See section 8-1, as it doesn't list a calliper change there.
How that would be proven given that it bolts on would be another topic, but figured I'd bring it up. 

But you can fit those larger rotors, as I'm assuming they would be "the same size as the OE rotors; and catalogued aftermarket items for that make and model of vehicle (and can include cross-drilled and/or slotted types)"

Sold. Will let the new owner sort out their own project thread. 

9 minutes ago, 3pedals said:

Whats with the front ride height - thats way wrong 

Not sure, it's been like that since I got it, so didn't know that was wrong.

Right. Now that I've actually cleaned the car, I can post some pictures of the body issues, which I'd say is above the average wear and tear.

Bit of a scrape here on the tail light.

And a dent here on the drivers rear

Probably the worst bit, the weird dents in the drivers guard

And the bonnet clear has faded in the middle, and is starting to go on the roof also.

3 hours ago, Blackie said:

I would be asking more for that personally...

Yeah, pricing on E36's has gone up, but figured would see if anyone within the forum would take it keep it in the family, rather than just flicking it to some random.

45 minutes ago, LemonHunter said:

Any interest in an E28 525e Project car? Not much really left to do, rego still live 

Nah, not particularly, given how little I've driven the E36, I don't have a lot of use for 2 project cars 😜

Well, what a year. I think I've only done about 3000kms in it during my ownership.
If staying locked up at home during COVID won't kick me out onto the track in this, I doubt anything will.
So she's up for sale.

Would prefer to keep it in the Bimmersport family, so listing it here for $5.5k before I chuck it up on Facebook/Trademe in a couple of weeks.

Located in Hamilton.

1996 BMW 328i
159918kms
Reg until 16/7/21
WoF until: 27/2/21
Manual converted with a G220 box
Mechanically it's great, but the exterior has it's fair share of wear and tear.

Have a flick through the project threads to see all the work done:
https://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/56912-another-e36-my-328-beauty-sold/
https://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/62999-the-bimmersport-family-e36-328i/

But a few highlights
-Competition Clutch and light flywheel (7.5kg) with about 1000kms
-Aluminium radiator
-M3 Suspension
-ACS Type 2's with Michelin Pilot Sports.

Righto, final update on this one, as will be listing the car for sale.

The tyre that I replaced ended up getting a puncture after less than 500km's of use. 
Unfortunately I didn't notice soon enough, and the inside showed discolouration, so had to replace it again  

Ended up replacing the faulty camshaft sensor. 
This appears to have resolved the intermittent idle issue, as I drove across town and back today with no issues.

Reglued the glovebox back together. 
Now it's just a normal saggy glovebox. 

Drivers door window kept getting stuck and not moving.
Took out the regulator, greased it, pressed the switch, it moved. Put it back in.
The following day, go to use the window, doesn't move.
Replaced the motor and the little guide clips, has been fine since.

Swapped to a 3.15 ratio diff, which brings down the revs a little while cruising, which has been nice.

I'm assuming it was a 330ci auto prior.

I'd be more inclined to try track down a unmodified "factory" driveshaft, and then not require the hoops. 

Due to only requirement for the hoops is due to your driveshaft being modified. 

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_07-2016_Drive-shaft_Safety-loop_Requirements.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjc58nL5sXtAhV0IbcAHSjmD0EQFjAAegQIAxAC&usg=AOvVaw292hljGfPsbMtkkM0ZeVUf

Otherwise I would recommend something custom, as the general ones require holes in the floor pan, which while easy, isn't as tidy as a tunnel mounted one. 

28 minutes ago, gjm said:

E30 Maplight mirror - is the wiring for these in place in most cars, or does it require splicing into the wiring for the interior light? Thinking of fitting one to Mrs M's Baur.

On mine, the factory wiring has a plug behind the passengers speaker in the the footwell. You'll need to then take this all the way up to the mirror. 

While I don't have any first hand experience with them, I did look into them for a while as a way to run 5 stud wheels occasionally without having to mess with the steering geometry etc.

As 16in style 5s look great:

From what I can tell, those particular ones are the ones to go for, and numerous people on R3V run them, and I see a bunch of lads also using them in Aus. 
This is the main R3V thread which I'm sure you've flicked through already: https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-classified-forums/for-sale-wanted/wheels-tires-for-sale-wanted/333379-4x100-5x120-4x100-5x114-3-cheapest-on-the-market-~-e30sports-com?t=364335&page=8

I have flipped back to just staying fully 4 stud, and running larger brakes, but just as likely to change my mind again in another few months. 

Well ballpark if it was registered would be around the 15k mark. 

The rust, while a concern doesn't seem to be too bad in the scheme of things.

And the faults you've listed sounds like just some general e30 love is required. 

I must admit I am keen on the rear seats.