nick496

After an E36 M3 in Christchurch to test fit some wheels over the E36 M3 brakes. (Or if you have an E30 with the brakes even better)
Wheels in question: https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=2028330607

Looking to go 5 stud on my touring in the near future, and given I currently have ACS wheels, these tickled my fancy.
Information on the net is a bit iffy on 16in wheels over E36 M3 brakes, some wheels do fit, but others don't. So looking to test fit before purchasing and getting them up here.

I've had a chat to Paul, and as per the comments on TM he's on here to, so hopefully can sort some bimmersport magic and I'll pay for a box of beers to share

Most similar cars are listing around the $18-20k mark. (And is around what I'm insuring my touring for) 

I'd wager they'd be selling around the $12-15k. 

What wheels are you certed for? 

I'd say hit up your certified and ask. 

Or you could email lvvta directly, which I have done in the past also. 

I'd suggest a Mazda 323 like this 

https://www.trademe.co.nz/1906062000

Nice and zippy in a 2l manual. Plenty enough fun to drive around, and still practical. 

Doesn't quite meet the cool criteria. But that one I've linked is yellow, which adds some points for being different. 

Is this out of a pre or face-lift? 

Was it working prior to removal? 

What conditions are the lines in? 

On 11/18/2018 at 11:29 PM, zero said:

 

Heres an update on this car at Manukau Zebra;

 

Seeing this in person was hilarious.

And another update.

Looks like someone was keen on the $100

I left mine to gravity bleed for 30 minutes into a tray. Then finished it off with a 2 person bleed. This was after replacing master, slave, line. 

I believe the mysterious third line is a breather line that runs from the tank, through the line, to a charcoal canister, into the intake. 

9 hours ago, Driftit said:

Oh god.  It is very basic.  Be very very sure it works.  Mine wouldn't turn off a couple of times.

Thanks for the heads up.

I'm also after a kit in case there is an abundance of them.

I already have enough on my hands... But does it still start with a push? 

Do you know when the clutch was replaced? 

From memory Ray sold his tastefully modified one recently for around 18k (I'm sure someone else has a better memory) which was stroked. That was on there for only a few days. 

If they're not sold within a week. I'll be in touch. 

16 minutes ago, Kepes said:

E30 - I've got a new sunroof seal. Being a pre-facelift it comes from the factory with a 2 piece seal. I'm replacing it with the 1 piece seal from the facelift.  Where should the 2 ends of the seal meet? Is there a spot that's better than others? Or if anyone with a facelift could please tell me where they join from the factory, I would really appreciate it.

Thanks :~)

I'm not sure if it's the correct spot, but I had mine meet in the middle at the rear. 

6 hours ago, gjm said:

1990 E30 318i - rear disc or drum brakes? (Or could they have either...?)
Car is about 120km away so I can't pop out and have a look, and RealOEM doesn't suggest one way or the other.

I believe either is possible.

My old 318i was a 1990 and had rear disk brakes though. 

Surely it's not a hard question to ask? 

52 minutes ago, Palazzo said:

Does anyone know the correct oil filter internal diameter for an M52B28? I got two suggested, one is a 27 (or 28mm) and the other 40 (or 43, can't remember now).

 

'96 E36.

It will depend on if you have a plastic cap or metal cap on your oil filter housing.

I'm not 100%, but I think the plastic housing is the larger internal diameter. 

I take it you're wanting to sell complete as opposed to parting? 

Right, so I ended up getting around to comparing these with e30 15in basketweaves.
In short they don't fit.

E30 waffle in Black. E34 waffle in silver.
E30 waffle on E34 rim, larger than the hole

E34 waffle on E30 rim, center bore of E34 waffle larger, and won't press in.

See differences here:
E30 on Left with twist to lock, E34 on Right with just a push in

See difference in centre widths here

10 minutes ago, adz said:

Did you just make a plate and bolt that down with some gasket seal?

Yep that's the one.

The oil level sensor I blanked off as my sump didn't come with one either. Ended up just grounding out the wire with a resistor to stop the oil level light on the check panel. 

$95 each new is pretty good. I think I spent not too much less than that getting second hand ones off ebay in the UK, shipping them over here, and getting new stickers for them.
I was pretty new to the game at that point, and should have checked with the dealer.

I'd say rep centers wouldn't work, as most of them don't do the whole locking thing, and tend to have a hex screw to attach it to the wheel so it doesn't fall off.

I think it on trademe for less than 24 hours. Very tidy and original example. 

Replacements coded to your car? I would say the dealer is the only option. 

I don't know if you could rebuild your ignition barrel, but that could be a cheaper option. 

Still have the front struts? What size are they? 

I haven't ever physically tested them, but believe the 5 stud weaves use this cap, and they don't work with the 4 stud weaves. 

They do, but things won't last long if you're wanting to drop skids. 

Have a search, many run the m40 box behind the m50/52, myself included.