actletpone

Just stumbled upon this https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/753825483238428/?mibextid=dXMIcH

Last post Dec 17 😳 ^ Wow where to start!.. Long story short.. Early 2018 I added a third vehicle to my 'fleet' and built a campervan which took up a chunk of my free time along with work,life,friends,family + other non car projects. The e30 mostly ended up on the back burner. I still have the car and recently put some time into it so I will see if I can add the missing pics above and get this up-to-date Early 2018 I did some rust work on the boot..

I was going to add a link to this 325 manual for $28k : trademelink Then I got a little carried away, current trademe asking prices for e30's from March 2021 below. Obviously there are other factors which influence price, condition, location, trim/accessory options etc. 1990 320i manual, 4dr, 300km (few small issues) $4,000 1990 318i manual , 4dr, 151km, (dereg) $4,300 1988 320i Auto, 4dr, 170km $5,200 1990 320i manual , 4dr, 233km $5,500 1990 320i manual , 4dr, 238km $5,500 1990 318i manual , 4dr, 255km $6,000 1986 318i Auto, 4dr, 142km $6,500 1989 320i manual, 4dr, 160km $7,000 1985 320i manual, 4dr, 285km,$7,000 1991 318i auto, 4dr, 128km, $8,500 1990 320i auto, 4dr, 206km $8,500 1989 320i manual, 4dr, 227km $8,500 1988 320i auto, 2dr, 210km $9,500 1988 316i manual, 2dr, 213km $9,700 1990 318i manual, 4dr 224km $9,950 1985 323i manual, 4dr 330km $11,999 1987 325e manual, 2dr $12,000 1988 318i, 2dr, 106km $13,500 1988 318, 4dr, 180km, $13,000 1988 320i manual, 2dr, $13,000 1988 320i manual, 2dr, 100km $13,500 1984 320i manual, 2dr, 177km $17,500 1990 320iSE manual, 4dr, 244km $18,000 1985 323i auto, vert, 132km, $18,500 1987 325i manual, 4dr, 162km $18,900 1988 320i manual, 2dr, 250km, $19,500 1989 325i manual, 4dr, 99km, $28,000

Still interested..

Am after an M20B25 block. Maybe whole motor for right price / location.

This is a significant thread bump, but on topic so.. The febi site list 11 31 1 706 655 as '2600 (F) Degree' for vehicles without catalytic converter 11 31 1 716 138 as 2600 Degree for vehicles with catalytic converter What is the difference? can they be interchanged?

Updated

Does anyone supply these in nz? Update, still looking, ideally one that has been tested, had a spare one but ended up being cracked.

Updated 2/7/19

Have found a b pillar trim. Really need a fuel pump connector. Have a cheap chinese antenna but will look into new oe antenna, still keen on a nz radio (not the sony one).

Was having a cleanup and found a cambelt I forgot I had. $25 shipped https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1875763193 Also still have this pair of E30 high beams lying around $50 pickup $65 shipped

I have a clarion radio currently with red lighting, want to find an e36 style factory deck with nz frequencies to play with. Will check mercs for power antennas at to scrap yard

Hi guys, As above I am after the following parts for my e30: Factory power antenna Interior right hand sand B pillar trim for 4 door (where the seat belt is) mine has de-laminated. Factory radio from e30 or e36 with nz frequencies, so must be nz new Fuel pump connector holder thing see photo, is there a common term for this thing which holds the two connectors? or is it a bmw part? mine is broken and the connectors keep coming loose Updated to add fuel pump connector

3 years.. really? believe it or not they still haven't been painted Any advice appreciated, thanks

Updated - reduced to $1200 if anyone is insterested

Home again so car is available to purchase. Took it for a drive today. Ran fine. Going to put rego on hold too so new owner just has to pay from change of ownership date. Edit: Rego now on hold

Going away soon so no longer available at the moment. Will probably be up for sale again in a month or so.

Wasn't aware I would be sent the bill up until the ownership change date, not that it makes much difference as rego is pretty cheap now. It's something that is in the buyers favour then as they will only have to pay from the ownership change date? I can't pay rego at the moment as to pay rego it needs a current wof.

BMW 1996 E36 318is auto 222 km's Updated 2/7/19 Parts ? or fix up project? Put it on for $1000 ono but offered it to someone for $700 so lets cut to the chase. $700 flat take it or leave it, no under offers. Positives: Newish front tyres 5+ mm tread New drive shaft guibo + control arm Fold down rear seats Drives well aside from mentioned issues, good runabout owned since end of 2017 Good looking car for price range Replaced Coolant, pulled waterpump out to check it and replaced it with a metal impeller one in good condition, replaced brittle plastic cooling hose, checked thermostat and several other preventative maintenance things such as clearing leaves and dirt out of windscreen gutter so the ecu is not at risk of flooding (common issue). Negatives: Small leak from windows in heavy rain. Standard e36 interior, roof lining is stapled up and fabric on doors is loose Slow leak in radiator heaps of replacements at pick a part for $68 (has not overheated!). Leaves a 10cm sized puddle when parked up. Sometimes on cold start needs a couple of revs or to be put in gear to maintain idle. Might be idle control valve $18 at pick a part. No wof rego on hold, needs RH inner tie rod end (quoted $200), one or two rear tyres, When I got new front tyres they were $100 each. Power steering is leaking. Purchased this so I had a car to drive around while I work on the E30, in the meantime have purchased a van. Don't have the time or space for 3 vehicles. Selling 'as is where is'.

I am after an e30 power antenna for a facelift.

Poked around under the wheel arches while sweeping the garage. Most of this is from the rear left arch, not the first time I have cleaned it, amazing how much dirt can build up. Saw the first e30 at pick-a-part for a while, 2.5 manual! Unfortunately in the 7 days it was in the yard before I got there it was nearly completely stripped. Might be a good thing knowing my spare part collecting habit. Got the piece of plastic trim which runs along the boot as mine is all cracked + a bunch of plastic clips etc New cambelt + waterpump Tested the injectors (purchased rebuild kit from ebay a while ago), jumped fuel pump relay to make sure none were leaking, tested resistance = ok. The first time I put pressure to the fuel rail it appeared my feed hose clamp was leaking but it still leaked after I tightened it, closer inspection revealed the fuel hose was cracked, lucky I noticed. THIS IS THE FUEL HOSE I REPLACED ABOUT 2 YEARS AGO: I assume the problem here is a google search tells me SAE 30 R7 is not suitable for 'Fuel Injection' you should use SAE 30 R9. Why is it labelled 'injection hose' then? Seems to mainly be the outer layer which is cracked. The hose is codan brand, a google search tells me codan is good, a google search also tells me people have had 'R9' hoses crack after a couple of years, even 'Gates' brand R9 hose. Then there is a question of whether those people received 'genuine' 'Gates' hose or not. Substandard parts are frustrating, can't trust anyone anymore. Purchased some SAE 30 R9 hose, replaced the feed line, still have the original return hose on the car (not cracked), holding off replacing it as currently I trust that 27 year old hose more than the new stuff. Sending injectors away for a flow test / cleaning seems to run about $200 - $250 so I came up with a backyard solution. You need something to pulse the injectors because if you hold them open for too long it might damage them. Below is an 'em276 injector tester' cost about $40. I jumped the fuel pump relay and ran the injectors for 30 seconds each timed against a stop watch. If you do this I suggest a fused wire with a switch to jump the pump relay (be careful with sparks around fuel vapour!) Some empty bottles allowed for observation of the spray pattern All even. A 60 second test is probably better for the bottle size. Decided there was no reason to rebuild them but then I tried cleaning the pintle caps with degreaser which was a mistake as the dirty degreaser got stuck underneath them. So I replaced the pintle caps and decided I might aswell use the rest of the rebuild kit aswell, the basket filters looked clean when I pulled them out, new orings etc. I don't think I gained anything doing this as the injectors were already working well. but anyway, rebuilt, re-flow tested and reinstalled. Degreaser did not do much while trying to clean the inside of the intake manifold but sca throttle body / card cleaner did. New 'rein' 3 way heater hose to replace the original with bulging end. Annoyingly the bit by the overflow tank is about 1 inch longer than the original for some reason, still usable but doesn't sit properly (doesn't fit into clamp in the back of air box). New intake gaskets, it seems they commonly get oil soaked from the valve cover, maybe why they fail, so I tried something different. The outer edge of the gasket seems to be raw cut (doesn't have any coating) I assume this allows oil to soak into the gasket easier. So I put a FINE layer of silicone on the outer edge. I didn't use silicone on the gasket face itself, personally I am not a fan of silicone gasket goo, if bmw didn't put it there neither do I. Too many times I have seen / heard of it separating and ending up in the wrong place. I have seen people say torque specs are only for wheel bolts and head bolts. Each to their own, generally if I can find a torque spec I use it. Deleted more of the silicone hose that was on the car when I got it. This is the t-stat to throttle body hose, as mentioned before, I prefer the molded hoses, the silicone ones seem more trouble than they are worth. This one has yellow tape around it because it didn't sit properly and kept rubbing on something. Maybe the original hoses are molded for a reason. Motor is back together and running, haven't driven it yet as there are other things to be done...

Thanks for the comment, really happy to hear it is still around, always wondered where it was now. Would love a photo if you happen to have one.

Found this photo from a while ago (replaced dizzy cap + rotor) This is pretty much how the car sits currently. Pulled off intake manifold due to suspected intake gasket leak, confirmed leaking intake gasket, timing belt due for replacement so doing that at the same time. It has been a while since I painted the rocker cover + exhaust header so pleased to confirm the paint is holding up well (see page 1 for paint + process) Replaced smaller heater hose a while ago due to bulging. Apparently when they bulge they are likely to burst one day. This is the other heater hose a.k.a the one the links to t-stat housing and overflow tank a.k.a not a cheap hose. I am replacing this one now. I was pleased to find when draining the coolant that it was nice and clean.. It looks like there is a leak down the front of engine, cam seal possible suspect. I replaced this during previous head gasket change but decided not to offset it from the ridge on the camshaft. This time I have offset it slightly so hopefully it won't leak. New thermostat Valve adjustment.. Was mostly still within spec, just a slight tweak. More to come..

$118,000 NZD to save anyone the math Lowest mileage e30 in the world? Seems allot i.m.o but someone might be prepared to pay it? collector, museum, bmw themselves. You cannot exactly 'buy' a <1000 km e30 apart from this one I do wonder how it came to be and how it has been stored? rubber seals and fluids sitting for 30+ years? This m3 is not low mileage but could be had for another $8k? https://www.ebay.de/itm/Bmw-M3-e30-2-3i-200-ps-clima-black-leather-2017-restored/182819008878?hash=item2a90dcb16e:g:kuwAAOSwCV5Z278G

Interesting article, wonder if anyone sells r12a in nz?