actletpone

After an Alpine white II Front right fender + white colour matched front bumper Or good condition, front right fender for repaint / standard black facelift front bumper

Where to obtain switched 12v for replacement radio? Thought I would post this here rather than start a new topic.. The sony was stuffed, couldn't fix it, L/R channel volumes became even when heat was applied to the circuit board. I have a replacement radio to install which has a 15 Amp fuse. The standard switched radio power wire is 18 AWG which may or may not handle 15 amps depending on the mixed info I am seeing on wire gauge sizing charts. Considering the fact the radio wire circuit is suppose to have a 7.5 fuse in the fuse box I am hesitant despite the ease of tapping into the existing wire, it also has to run the check control and instruments so would certainly be at its limits. It might sound silly to consider it, but my factory radio runs the stock headunit and amp from this same piddly 18 awg wire, (amp itself has much thicker wiring and a 10 amp fuse). I think they also swapped the 7.5 fusebox fuse for a 10 amp when they installed the radio. Where is a good tidy place to obtain a switched 12v which can support 15 Amps? (I don't seem to have the auxiliary switched 12v connection next to the fuse box that I see on some overseas forums) I guess option B could be to run a battery feed wire and have it switched by a relay to the standard switched radio wire? I don't like the idea of having the radio wired to a non switched 12v.

After an nz frequency bmw radio single din size to fit e30. Also the brake ducts which go from the front bumper to the wheel arch and the plastic piece of the wheel arch they clip into

Cheers. Getting ready to put the roof lining in.. Glued the edges down with Ados F2 The windshield seal that was in the car when I got it was not in the best condition so picked up a new genuine one. Installing the new one made me realise just how bad the other one was, the fit was so much tighter on the new one I initially thought it was the wrong part. Pulled the rear window out.. POR15.. Installing roof lining.. Installing the locking strip into the windshield seal: When it came to putting the locking strip back into the front windshield my 'U' shaped bit of wire I used to pull it out was not working. I tried the bit-of-wire + screw driver method, think I got it in about half a meter but after trying multiple times and learning a few new swear words I couldn't get it around the corner without it popping out. Took it to a proper glass shop, good thing I did, turns out with the locking strip being out for a few days it had shrunk so I would never have got it back in anyway. They had a new locking strip installed in about 10 minutes. After watching the pros do it, when it came to doing the rear window I decided to give it another try. Picked up a locking strip tool and some silicone spray to help it slide in. Following advice on here I soaked the locking strip in boiling water before install to get it nice and flexible (they go hard with age). It worked without too much hassle. Whether or not I could of done it without the tool I don't know but it certainly makes it easier. And the roof lining is in...

Paint.. & Replaced the rubber tape in the bottom corners of the windshield. It took a while to find out what this stuff was and where to get it. Ended up using sellotape roof and gutter flashing tape from bunnings.

Next up I got around to installing the roof lining I picked up from a non-sunroof model. I was not sure how easy the glass removal / install would be but decided to give it a go. I didn't take photos of the windshield removal but it was fairly easy: Remove the metal clip where the locking strip joins, used a bit of wire bent in a 'U' shape to pull locking strip out, ran a bit of string the edge of the glass to separate rubber sealant then carefully used hands/thin bits of wood/a plastic ruler to evenly push the windshield out from the seal. Found some small bits of rust around the windows. Car had a leak in the windshield when I got it, noticed part of the front windshield seal was not sitting in the corner properly when I removed it possibly the cause of the leak. Was told there was no rust around windows when roof was painted, not sure if seals were removed completely or not. Front windshield had minor rust around the drain holes for the seal POR15 treatment.. The other side only had a minor bit but it got the same treatment Car had rust repair in front left windscreen area before I got it so pulled off the fender to make sure nothing was hiding away. Only a small bit of surface stuff, looks like someone scuffed the surface with a wire brush and didn't bother to cover it Por15.. Also sanded back some surface stuff in the common under the bonnet seal corner spot And there was a small bit under the right wiper grille..

List updated, cheers

Preferably tauranga, but could do hamilton / waikato too. Looking for recommendations for a place to take an m20 e30 head for skim/crack test/straightening etc.

Have not used a flap disc but a 3m strip disc works really well and seems to do a better job of stripping paint + rust than a wire wheel

List updated: IS front lip Air ducts for brakes which run from front bumper to wheel well splash panel. Also need splash panel they connect to. Single din factory BMW radio / tapedeck from e30 / e36 that receives nz frequency, preferably alpine branded PM me, cheers

It has been a while, no major changes. Been busy with other things also car is my daily driver so progress is somewhat slow considering it has to be back together following any weekend work. Anyway.. I picked up a Shevron dashmat, I ordered the coal colour first but it looked too light against my black vinyl door trim, so I ordered a black one. I sold the coal one on here a while ago. If anyone is interested in a side by side comparison of the colours...

The nakamichi might be hard to find though? I am looking at options too after not being able to repair my nz new sony unit. I don't consider myself an expert but if you find a pinout of the din plug it will probably have a pin for left channel, right channel and ground which 'may' be able to be connected to an aux cable. I guess the question is what voltage the cd input operates at and whether or not the unit will accept the input without the cd changer connected

you might be able to wire an aux input into the cd or tape input of the alpine. These units seem to be common choice due to their non flashy looks: http://www.ebay.com/itm/RARE-NAKAMICHI-CD400-AUDIO-STEREO-HEAD-UNIT-AUDIO-AUX-TOP-CAR-RADIO-Stereo-/272210487007?hash=item3f610266df:g:lzQAAOSwhDdXDhCs Or have a look in repco/supercheap at the colour changeable models.

Not sure how important the centre roof brace is to the cars structure but you could pull one from a parts car and weld it in

Has anyone had any experience with the sony xr-7300 giving more power to one side? My Right speakers are stronger than my left. Balance appears to be set to the middle. I do not think it is an amp or wiring issue because when I plug an rca cable from my phone directly into the amp the left and right channels are the same volume through the speakers. I also do not think it is an input issue, as it does it when set to radio aswell.

I think I have figured it out now. The nz new sony xr7300 only has line level outputs which cannot be used with the amp in the boot as it is a booster amp and requires speaker level inputs. The pinout on the internet for the sony xr7300 is similar but different to how these nz new setups seem to be wired. Interestingly the pinout looks like the unit does have speaker level outputs, maybe there is a switch inside it somewhere or it was modified for bmw. Saying that maybe the pinout is wrong because if it was capable of speaker level outputs you could just wire it straight into the booster amp? I was wondering what would happen if you fed the speaker level outputs from the sony amp into the factory booster amp but can't seem to find specs on the booster amp. I found a sony xr7300 service manual online if anyone is interested: http://elektrotanya.com/sony_xr-7300.pdf/download.html Note the download button is under the 'Document Preview' not the multiple 'sponsored links'

Still trying to figure this out. The car is nz new with premium sound option. The white wire which turns the amp in the boot on has been cut at the head unit end. The 8 speaker wires coming out of the amp in the boot are cut off behind the rear seat and the 8 wires going to the speakers they use to be connected to are joined to the output of the amp under the ecu. The left and right channel ground wires behind the head unit have been cut. The 4 speaker wires at the fader have been cut. The job looks a bit crude to be a factory nz radio install, unless someone was cutting corners? Cut wires are left hanging. Speaker wire joins behind rear seat are simply wrapped in insulation tape. If the head unit is the original nz new premium sound head unit I fail to see how it joined to the amp in the boot. Or were the cars shipped with the amp in the boot and configured as above with the amp under the ecu when they landed. I have tried to rejoin the cut wires and can get the amp in the boot to turn on but cannot get sound output. I can't see how it would work as the speaker outputs on the pinout for the sony xr7300 go to the rca's which plug into the amp under the ecu.

Never dealt with them but heard good things. Them or Sherson auto centre,

E30 single intank fuel pump for facelift 325i Anything working considered. Cheapish 2nd hand unit or aftermarket replacement tre-340 or similar.

Sorry, was really hoping to find a tool and didn't want to pull seal out again to soak it. All sorted now. Will keep it in mind when I do the rear, is it the seal or lock strip you soak in boiling water?

Will do as a last resort, would rather find a tool, it does not seem hard to instal aside from the fact holding wire against a screw driver is inadequate and therefore it pops out of the seal

Does anyone have a tool they would be willing to lend or know where I can buy one? Tried the bent wire and screw driver trick but it keeps popping out meaning to get it back in I have to start again, also the corners seem difficult

A standard brake fluid reservoir cap will fit if you don't mind going non origional

Tried to pm but think your inbox is full? From what I have seen they seem to be about 100 - 400 depending on condition

Any m20 885 heads around?