actletpone

I have some style 10 wheels with some corrosion I would like to get cleaned up. Not sure if originally the 'dish' part was painted or sanded? Any advice on how to clean them up would also be helpful... It looks like some of the wheels are sanded and others are painted on the 'dish'.

Stock of the 128 tooth belt I assume would be pretty limited now but some foreign websites may still have it listed? Just need to make sure you are using the right tensioner, I guess you could adjust the old one? But if you still have one it is probably due for replacement anyway

Do you know anything about fixing these units or how to diagnose them? I can solder and have a basic understanding of electronics

There were two different timing belts for the m20 engine, one is 127 tooth the other is 128 tooth. I believe the 128 tooth setup was for older cars and to change to the newer 127 tooth belt you just need the 'z127' stamped tensioner. Early m20's I guess the ones which came with the 128 tooth setup? also had a weaker cam gear

I was of the understanding screw on AFM should not be touched without co meter and is only there for factory idle mixture setting. Any fix you achieve by adjusting it is most likely a band-aid fix unless it has been messed with before? Most guaranteed way to eliminate intake leaks is smoke test. Does the idle raise when aircon is turned on? Fuel pressure? Injectors or c191 plug connections. AFM can be checked with multimeter also.

Common causes: You can test the ICV, AFM and TPS with a multi-meter following steps in the haynes / bentley manual. Other common air leak sources (dip stick o-rings, b*tch tube seals, intake gaskets, vacuum tube to fpr, tube from valve cover to throttle body, injector o-rings, oil filler cap, throttle body elbow fittings, brake booster + fittings, also some cars have a rubber blanking plug under the throttle body where the charcoal canister used to connect which can crack). Best way to check air leaks is smoke test. Fuel Filter, Fuel Pressure, Fuel Injectors, connections in c191 plug Dizzy cap + rotor, Spark plugs - gap + condition + type ('apparently' m20's do not like platinum plugs) Does the idle increase when the air con is turned on? Does the idle sound change if you remove the oil filler cap? Are the first 30 - 45 seconds at an increased idle speed?

Interesting, I agree they look good and it is sweet cruising with it open but it's also peace of mind eliminating one of the most common and hardest to see rust spots on the e30. I cut the sunroof out of my current e30 due to rust in the tray. Even the replacement sunroof panel I used to fill the hole with no visible rust externally had a little starting on the inside, they rust from the inside out. I wonder how the sunroofs of e30's will hold up as they continue to age. If I had an E30 with even the smallest sign of rust on the sunroof panel I would cut the panel open and fix it properly before it gets worse, any superficial repair is pointless IMO.

Ok cheers, that is good to know. Now I just need to find out why the rear speakers have been cut from the amp in the boot then hopefully get the head unit working properly. Maybe the amp in the boot has failed and the amp sitting under the ecu was installed to replace it. I would be surprised if it came out of the factory with both amps installed.

The headunit is manufactured by Sony, hopefully I can get it working properly. In my previous nz new e30 with the same unit, there were little brackets which bolted on the the bottom of the ecu to hold it. When I got this car the ecu had to cover (amp was just sitting under kick panel, I do not have the brackets to hold the amp, the velcro on top of it (obviously to hold it to the ecu when it had a cover) makes me think it may have been added later. So I am guessing this head unit is not the original, hence the disconnection of the rear speakers to the amp in the boot, front speakers must be disconnected from amp in boot somewhere too. Cannot see any markings on amp in boot but have not removed it completely. Will try find some specs on the net. If I cannot get the sony unit working I will have to find the original premium sound head unit or a suitable looking alternative. Anyone familiar with what goes wrong in these units?

My car seems to have two amplifiers, trying to work out what has been done and why under previous ownership. This is my factory head unit and amplifier which sits under the ecu. The head-unit is possibly faulty, seems to like turning itself off from what I remember (has been out of the car for a while) I also have this unit in the boot which I believe is an amplifier (sits under the lining by the antenna), (photo from internet).. The car has the premium sound package. At some stage it looks like the wires going from the amp in the boot to the rear speakers have been cut and joined to a connector under the rear seat which must be coming from the amp under the ecu. I believe the original head-unit for the premium sound package is different to my one? Do cars with the premium sound package have an amp under the ecu and one in the boot or just the one in the boot? I am guessing for some reason the original premium head unit was replaced and the amp in the boot is not compatible with it? Or maybe the head-unit is the original as I believe it was an nz only option (had one in my last e30 which did not have premium speakers).

Bump

My 325i facelift came factory with manual, no catalytic converter and no o2 sensor, will any 173 / 380 ecu work or are they coded differently for auto/manual, cat/non cat? Realoem.com shows the following listings: What is the difference between basic and AT ? 01Basic cotrol unit DME HARDWARE 1.3 09/198712141735364 01AT-Control unit Motronic HARDWARE 1.3 09/198712141748260 For vehicles with without catalytic converter S199A=Yes 01Basic cotrol unit DME HARDWARE 1.3 09/198712141735364 01AT-Control unit Motronic HARDWARE 1.3 09/198712141748260 For vehicles with without catalytic converter S199A=No 01Basic cotrol unit DME HARDWARE 1.3112141735364 01AT-Control unit Motronic HARDWARE 1.3112141748260

Looking for e30 / e34 m20 ecu ending in 173 from 325 / 525

Na i'm not on the facebook page, which one exactly?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-912841139.htm I heard on the forum previously it had been thrashed. Anyone viewed it?

Finished up changing the brake + clutch fluid with a vacuum pump. Apparently when the car was new it was owned by someone that worked in the BMW dealership who got the sport suspension package (bilsteins + sport springs added). Also replaced the cracked cap on the clutch fluid reservoir.

To push the new bushings in, I started by using a trolley jack while a block of wood was bracing the top of the subframe. I had another block of wood sitting the top of the trolley jack to brace against the bottom of the mount. A hole needed to be cut in this block to allow room for the bolt tube on the bushing as it sits lower than the bushings base. This got me to this stage (where the tube for the bolt in the bushing is level with the top of the subframe). From here you can use a gear puller, grabbing onto the top of the subframe to get it the rest of the way... A wheel from an old trolley jack was the perfect fit for pushing against the bottom of the bushing with the gear puller it was also recessed enough on one side to allow room for the center tube in the bushing. Success... Cleaned up support plate etc for reasembly..

Jacked up the car using rear jack point with two extra jack stands ready to support the rear subframe. Front wheels chocked. Subframe mounting bolt nuts and support plates removed. Subframe mounting bolt removed. The first bolt I removed came out easy. The other side was a right pita. I was hoping to have the second bushing replaced within about 3 hours, it took me about that just to get the bolt out. I hammered it, put heat into the top of it, let crc soak into it, jacked the corner of the car up with it, hammered it some more and it still wouldn't budge. In the end I sat a solid steel block underneath the bolt which was sitting on a bit of wood pivoted on another bit of wood and stomped on the opposite end. Two stomps with that and it finally broke free. If you are trying to do this over a weekend or day off I would recommend breaking both mounting bolts free first This is basically how it works... The lip of the bushing might bend down. The hardest part is getting the pull started because you have less lip to work with and all of the bushing holding itself in. At first the gear puller was not pulling straight then I noticed the grabber on one of the puller arms was cut on an angle of about 20 degrees, so that got taken back for a replacement. The second bushing was a little harder to get started for whatever reason, I put a little heat into it and also tried using a clamp on the outside of the gear puller to stop it bending the lip and slipping off. Success... This shows how the opening of the pitman arm puller sits against the subframe. Like I said there is a small margin between the opening being wide enough for the bushing and too wide to sit on the lip.

Rear subframe bushings... The rear end felt loose and shoddy. Diff mount is good, had the same thing with my last e30. With my last car I removed the entire rear suspension and took it to a shop to get new subframe + trailing arm bushings pressed in, it was a bit of a mission. Looking for an easier solution I found the pitman arm puller method, basically lets you replace the rear subframe bushings without removing the subframe. Basically the pitman arm puller sits on the bottom of the subframe while the gear puller pushes against it and pulls the bushing down inside of it. I got an ampro pitman arm puller off trademe for about $30. And a 6" 2 jaw gear puller from bunnings for about $35 You need to cut the pitman arm puller so it is wide enough for the bushing where the two slots are. Don't cut it too wide otherwise it will slip off the bottom lip of the subframe and you will probably need a new arm puller. It is a narrow margin between been wide enough for the bushing and too wide for the subframe lip. It is also hard to tell how wide to make the gap when the bushings are still in the car, so it basically came down to trial and error. The one I made has an opening of about 60.5mm. I would aim for 60.0mm and go from there a.k.a i'm not taking responsibility if your does not fit, remember you can always make it bigger but making it smaller basically means you need to start again. Also angle grinders are not the most precise method of cutting, so try keep it straight. Rough cutting guide lines to remove the bulk of the opening before the trial and error process... Here you can see the opening cut away. You also need to grind out the inside of the arm puller to allow enough width for the bushing. Allow as much length as possible for the bushing to be pulled down inside the arm puller. The bolt on the arm puller gets cut off to allow space for the gear puller to push against it. You basically end up with this... (In this photo I had not grinded down the full length of the arm puller, you need to otherwise there won't be enough length to pull the bushing)

If your interested in pulling them out a pre facelift e30 318 showed up at pick a part the other day. I know the trailing arms and cross member are there but don't know condition.

Hi, my e30 325i came with an ecu chip. I know literally nothing about it. Anyone recognise it? Obviously a BBR chip of some sorts, starchip? do the numbers mean anything to anyone? While I am at it, I know the camshaft has been reground. Do these numbers mean anything?

It has been a while since an update, it is my daily driver and there are only so many hours outside of work, also been busy with other things lately. That aside I have some updates, here is some smaller stuff, Nothing too interesting here: Replaced faulty reverse light switch Replaced the standard power steering reservoir hose clamps which had a loose fit causing a seep to run down the hoses Replaced fuel filter The car has idle issues I am still chasing, but more on that later. The short metal piece of tube is a stent I made for the silicone hose between the ICV and intake elbow as I noticed it was collapsing under vacuum. Replaced cracked exhaust hanger Replaced yellowed bonnet badge Also replaced spark plugs, oil filler cap, cracked intake boot and tightened loose ground nut on temp gauge.

What is the advantage of the Alpine over the sony?

E30 front left fog light (facelift) Mine is cracked.

http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/52657-need-a-new-home-for-uber-sexy-1982-e21-3206/