///MPROVD

Thanks bro! That means alot.

I was thinking a gloss black centre with gold bolts. Have got some black bbs centre cap stickers with gold writing.

And finishing touch down the track is polished lips.

I was considering a gun metal/charcoal. But wasnt sure if it would clash with the car colour haha. Might play around with photoshop because i thought even white may look good.

sounds good have you got an update keen to see the progress

i had the same thing replaced the oil stopped rattle for all 10km so i asked around chatter is normal theres nothing to worry about

as title includes a extra diff center w/bearings $75 Faulty speed sensor

i have a 3.73 open diff and extra center $50

id rather have the black i only need the fronts the grey would look very out of place as i have black leather

haha

actually the seats in the m3 are quite tidy , less wear than the ones in my 328i coupe.

just the door cards need sorting , i just need to find a good drivers side card with good vinyl ,

have got the fabric inserts sorted , cleaned and ready to glue back on the backing card etc.

but yes i may sell the vaders from the 328i before i sell it , if that happens

i have a drivers door mint except the vinyl above the pockers is not holding shape but you cant tell unless your picky i also have a few back panels if i can get the front seats for 500 ill take them but i really cant justify spending more than that just for seats

take all of your 328 interior and put into the m3 (then sell me the front vaders for cheaps) haha because youll have to spend heaps to get the 328 to that standard of handling with the brakes and suspension and its a genuine m3 so it holds its value. And perhaps sell 328 to pay for paint etc and just go all out with the m3. just my 2cents

all panel beating done. car had no rust and body is mint. shell in primer and sanded back ready to paint. spent around 2k on panel beating and getting it to were it is.

no motor no gearbox no driveshaft and no interiour

doors have been painted a awesome pearl blue that costs over $800 a litre

if you want to change colour wouldnt take much to sand them back with a quick 400 sand and repaint.

can come with the rest of the paint for the shell for an extra $150

my loss your gain. i need the space in my work shop if it dosnt sell its off to the scrap yard.

plates r still live.

save this e30

sedan shell

located in silverdale auckland

txt me on 021 06 2806 if your interested

hey when you say plates still live does this mean if i was to finsh it would i need to re-vin or just a new rego ? sorry just a little hazy on that stuff. cheers

bump $350 for struts

Looking sweet bro keep it up !! what colour you thinking for the wheels?

i think a gun metal would look sweet

i have a problem with that and its coming from the heater/fan unit if so most of the water will be just behind the clutch pedal best thing to do is take seat out and lay under the dash and get a mate to to hose the sh** out of the car and should show where the leak is coming from

hey up for sale good used condition d2 adj coilovers $400 had plans to put into my e36 but cant be bothered with the cert

i also have a Bosch 044 internal fuel pump $140

I think CRC had a spray can underbody sealer, but not all Repco’s stocked it. I ended up using the CRC stuff in the pot, spread it on with a putty knife and you can get it pretty smooth and sets hard also.

haha thats what i have maybe ill try it on something and try get it smooth

hey guys just doing some underbody work and have some questions about underseal i have some brush on stuff and its not only hideous but is hard to use. yeah i know its under the car so it shouldnt really matter but the stuff i have doesnt seem to harden/dry and will make future work difficult. So my question is is there anything better to use something as simple and tidy as spray paint or at least a similar to factory underseal that i can pick up at repco etc thanks

i converted my e36 325 no problems just join the park switch and tap into the reverse switch idle was 700 didnt notice the revs.

with the engine warmed up, it will now idle on all 6 cylinders happily with a good idle.

however although the engine is very reponsive to the throtle is very revy. when the throtle is held at one fixed position (say 2500 rpm) it will drop to idle and then rev right back up. it doesn't misfire just does this as if it is hunting.

sounds like a vacuum leak taking the filler cap off wont change revs much if a leak is already present maybe try a smoke test and see. just a thought

Thanks. Yip I did have a few troubles in the early stages. But I'm pretty happy in the end I got it back on the road and don't regret anything. I did manage to get the original ECU after a bit of a man hunt, which I couldn't had done without some good helpful people.

It is a really nice car, goes f**ken well too. Its just a shame that some people thought it was a piece of s**t and didn't deserve to be on the road.

Sold it yesterday. New owner knows the full history so no nasty surprises like i got

I know I'm gonna miss it haha. Anyway onto the next one.

yeah thats great at least its another m3 on the road insteed of a crushed peice of metal good on you for taking to time and effort to get it up and running again

I got the cross members from the bmw dealership in Hamilton. Not sure if I added a price to the build thread or not. If not I've got no idea. Can get you the part numbers if they aren't on the build as well.

I got the reinforcement plates from pelicanparts while i was getting some other parts. They are available through dealerships and probably euroitalian and miland parts

Because yours is a coupe it'll be a lot easier to get to the front cross member.

Steps I took went something like this-

Remove interior that could get hot.

Remove battery and unplug ecu(some would say it isn't necessary)

Remove rear subframe

Remove fuel tank

Wire wheel all the underseal off around the lip of the crossmember

Cut or grind through the welded parts.

Remove sound deadening above cross member.Dry ice is definitely worth the money

Drill out all the spot from the top(just because I found it easier) and get the others from underneath.

Prep the new crossmember for welding(add reinforcements while it's not upside down)

Setup a jig or the subframe to make sure it'll bot up in the right place

Remove the crossmember. The underseal and any leftover bits of spot weld make it a bitch to remove

Put new crossmember in pace and set up with jig. Tack in place

Plug weld through all your drilled hoes and replicate the original welds holding it in place. Add some extra stitches if you so desire.

Paint and seam seal it all

Re-install parts

Good luck with it. If you do decide to do it yourself I'll try help out anyway I can

thanks heaps mate really helpfull ill start this weekend and yet you know how i get along i just called bmw 284+gst for front and 247+gst for rear they have to come from germany so ill pull it all apart just to check the the mount are ohk i really really hope it is just the front id hate to have to do the back as well. but yeah ill keep you up to date

hey thanks heaps im going to do what james did like i said id like to do it properly i messaged him with my questions and ill make a start asap these are really helpful write ups. im hoping i dont have to replace the rear mounts

Oh boy, are we talking about your e36? Normally the passengers rear is the first to go. I tore mine and although repaired it has plagued me ever since. Look under projects for thorburn(James) he has done a pretty comprehensive repair on an e36 325i.

yeah my e36. was your repair difficult i plan to reinforce it as well id like to get "track ready" haha so its a must id rather not have to re shell

could you link me repair write up that would be great cheers

Youl need to resize pics, google image resizer

thanks and done any thoughts

hey guy i was changing my open diff out to an lsd the other day and i noticed quite a serious crack in the right front mount i had noticed the car sitting slightly lower on one side i assumed it was sagging springs. ive looked around and it seems to be a common problem ive looked into it and found a subframe reinforcement kit BUT from the looks of their repair video there mounts only have cracks and are easy to weld up i have SOOO much metal missing around the mount that im worried it might be beyond repair.

SO my question is has anyone done this befor was it a Major to fix. ive thought i could try fit a plate inside and weld it from the inside repair and then install reinforcement kit.

please help me sorry i cant upload pics forum wont let me

yeah i saw this come up on turners awhile ago so i went along and bid upto 7.2k later on found it had a missing ecu i believe ray at hell bm helped sort that for him its sad because the 318is chassis takes the genuine from it and i heard he spent heaps trying to fix it too. still really nice car

Just noticed your thread before. Sounds like a bundle of fun.

haha yes it will be depending on the price ill do it myself maybe i could just get somebody to check my work haha to see that i dont the change timing

Pretty sure you're talking about an m50b25 unless its an american import...

Really quite simple just time consuming and potentially expensive if you dont know what you're doing (ie f**k the cam timing and smash all your intake valves).

I've replaced the entire vanos unit on some fellas m50b20, was 600 all up including parts.

If i were you i'd import the correct seals for your m50/s50, give them and your car to us and have your vanos unit re-ringed while the leak is fixed.

Come visit Wittz Auto, 78 Rawhiti Road, One Tree Hill, if you want to know more.

it is a m3 engine s50 not s52(us)