CamB

Can you enlighten the whole internet myth about whether there is or isn't a camber/caster problem after the swap? Thanks! Cam

If it's 400hp at the wheels you might want to at least consider the expensive M Coupe option for the rear. I researched this recently (mostly on the basis that 5 stud wheels are comparatively cheap and plentiful compared to decent sized 4x100 ones in E30 offset). My conclusion is that other than going the E30 M3 way, there is a lot of hearsay and not much proof out there. The issue doesn't seem to be getting them in there - a combination of E36 bits seems to go fine - it is making sure the caster and camber aren't messed up. What I recall is that E36 M3 lower arms restored most of the caster. The issue is that the parts are expensive for a "lets just try it" exercise.

I had a quick google - maybe they have a tendency to wear out that quick on E46s. If/when you replace them, make sure you get the car aligned.

Assuming they mean the rear control arm bushing for the front arms, and it is genuinely damaged to the point that it's causing undesired play in the suspension, yes its bad. If worn and sloppy, it could cause undesirable handling. How many km has the car done? (edit) Function of the bushes is to locate the rear of the lower suspension arm. Being rubber, it will allow enough movement/compliance to reduce noise and vibration. If badly worn/split, it would allow the front hub to move forward/back changing caster and camber, which isn't a good thing.

Assume it's this one? http://www.autotrader.co.nz/UsedItemDetail...id=1177C072C791 $80k is pretty steep...

They must? They gotta have something - or some sort of air bypass to get air around the TB - otherwise they wouldn't run properly when cold.

In an attempt to rescue this thread from itself: a) go to www.lvvta.org.nz b ) click on documents c) look at the thresholds and figure out what fails: http://www.lvvta.org.nz/CertThresholdScheduleApril04V3.pdf d) then look at the standards (separate links on the Documents page) and figure out if you're good.

OK, bored and tv crap, so been googling and thinking, in between trying not to look at the half built E30 race car on Tardme... ... so it occurs to me the crap running when it's cold could well be the idle control valve not working? And on the running rich - did you ever fix this problem: http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....c=13566&hl= are you sure that the ECU is getting a correct temperature reading? If it thinks the engine is cold, it'll run real rich...

Fuel filter right way up (and into right line from pump, not tank)? Can you check the fuel pressure (know someone with a gauge)? Have you ruled out the AFM yet?

Don't get me wrong - I reckon it's a good idea and I'd do the same. And if you multiply the gears by the FD you'll get the effective difference and you can see the ZF is sort of in between

Coz if you choose a diff that offers the same rpm in 5th (eg a 2.93 for a 1:1 top or (close enough) 3.73:1 for a 0.81:1 OD box), then the ratios are **kinda** similar (I plugged it into a spreadsheet and the graphs were similar). So it's better, but not good like the real c/r Getrag - you're not really much better off than a Getrag and a ridiculously short diff. It's really about whether 1st is any use. (edit - what ^^^^ said)

The 5 speeds aren't really "close ratio" - they're just direct 1:1 top gear - the spacing is about the same as a normal overdrive box... but you need a longer diff. Strong is good though.

Disclaimer - I don't know much about the eta. Now we've got that out of the way, google tells me the eta makes peak power at 4250rpm - this is a camshaft, port size and valve size thing - changing the throttle body is unlikely to free anything up.

Nope - 32 is the peak. I turn 33 next month and can already feel I'm losing my mental capacity, ability to reason, and general knowledge. Like the guys above say - offset is kinda a meaningless without reference to rim width and/or tyre width.

LOL, you are fickle. Just paint them black and you won't notice. How about my Superlites? 6" wide, 24p should look tough... and like you can't make up your mind what decade you're in... haha.

Anyone know where the kit comes from? I've emailed the seller - hopefully he knows...

1225kg includes the driver...

Which I find really interesting! You guys can easily outbrake my 2002 (a lot of that is the driver), despite me having a pretty decent weight advantage. Other series guys tell me there are zero problems with the brakes. If I was gonna change the brakes, I'd use Skyline ones personally.

Realoem has same part #

Its such bollocks - its spam. NZ and Australian demand is a drop in the global bucket (30m people vs 250m plus in each of Europe and US), and in any case assuming people still drive their cars, the same petrol gets sold a day later...

Google, or the dictionary (it was around before google).

The seats seem mechanically sound, although I think the driver's height adjustment doesn't work. The colour is a lightish grey - I'll take some pics.

Rugged. It's hard to tell because there is a bit of cloth covering the rugged part. It's at my house, so I'll take a look and let you know. Back seats are ok.

Hmmm, so if the sensors can mount, the flywheel needs to be correct... which it probably won't be (anyone have a pic?)... ... or could try find correct flywheel and box. At least we have the rest of the kit (and a decent clutch - bonus).

Jonathan (JiB) has a pre-f/l 325i auto, with sport mode. He's also got a manual everything 323i - about a 1985, ex the UK. Today we did the first half of the job. We got the 323i's manual box (and all of the etc) out. It's a Getrag 260. We haven't quite got to removing the auto from the 325i and finishing the swap - we'll give it a go on Sunday. I've got a question about flywheel sensors, etc. Looking down in below the starter, it looks like the 325i might have flywheel sensors. The 260 from the 323i didn't... so, are we in trouble? Unfortunately we ran out of time to check exactly whats on the 325i.