CamB

It's the same theory as those high-risers, just use small wheels. Fixing the geometry will be the hard bit.

So you wanna do this? http://www.maxpower.co.uk/article.asp?asset=2356 ??? There's a whole magazine devoted to it at Magazzino. No friggin chance of getting a legit WOF without a cert. LOL, a bit more google and: http://universalcarlifts.com/

Yes! Although lots less work if it goes into the same chassis (plumbing). I've been thinking about it... but not gonna do it (sorry). Proven dyno-tuned setup =

To fire 6 needs a cam sensor too.

I'm getting an error - whether I click on Gallery (see arrow below) or "Click here to create your first album" in My Controls somewhere.

If you pump it through, you shouldn't get air in the lines, that's all (and glad you've done it before - was getting worried there). I find the difficulty is telling when I've got old out and new in, so if someone has a flash way of doing it, I'm all ears.

I'm not sure I'd want to be doing this for the first time on a car I'd be taking to the track... Google "brake bleeding", or try this: http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticl...ding_Brakes.htm Just use the family member method, and keep doing it until the old fluid is out and their are no bubbles.

Longer springs and shocks, with very stiff springs might accomplish what you want. You need working springs and shocks for a WOF. You should also be careful about axle and steering joint angles, and not completely cocking the geometry. Plus, anything you do would have to be bolt on, since generally any mods to the chassis are theoretically non-WOFable. On a car that old, it might not have springs (potentially at either end) - it's not inconceivable for it to have torsion bars, leaf springs, etc. Why not just say what it is, then you might actually get some decent help.

You seem to have access to good fabrication, so you could get the E30 struts converted to coilover (a threaded sleeve for 2.5" springs is welded onto the strut, the inserts are replaced with shorter ones, and a suitable 2.5" that is used. This page shows what gets done (yes, I know it is a Fiat): http://www.mirafiori.com/~courtney/128/tech/coilover.html

I use the Supercheap one coz its cheap. Doesn't last any more or less long than the other products, but is 40% of the price.

Possibly, but it means you can't ditch the distributor (it just sits there looking lonely with no wires in it). Do you want to be able to trigger individual coils? If yes, you need cam based trigger, if no, I reckon crank trigger and wasted spark.

But isn't the point of wasted spark that it doesn't need cam sync?

You did DIY, right? All your own fabrication etc? That's the killer, cost-wise. If you can weld, subtract a couple of grand. Good at finding and modifying second-hand parts, another grand. Can rebuild own bottom end, another few hundred. Etc.

Just bothered to actually READ the other thread, so there were motronic m30s, and I guess a toothed flywheel is out there. Otherwise it needs a toothed pulley and sensor, or some other method. I'd think that would be harder, more expensive, and compromise room up front which I'm guessing is in hot demand.

What does it include? (edit - agree with 4x multiple, maybe 5x). The issue is that you need: - turbo plus wastegate (or one with one) - oil (and possibly water) lines to and from turbo - blow off or diverter valve - intercooler - piping - custom made coz it isn't coming off the shelf - an exhaust manifold for the turbo, and a custom downpipe from turbo to exhaust - headgasket if you want to run any worthwhile level of boost - custom lower compression pistons if you want to run a good level of boost - bigger injectors - an aftermarket computer plus a dyno tune (especially for any decent level of boost), or at least a dyno tune Maybe - better cooling, oil cooler, better fuel pump, stronger clutch/pressure plate, etc. And if you aren't DIY, a crapload of installation and fabrication, unless you can find a bolt on kit (for right hand drive).

Wasted spark (skyline?) plus some sort of ignition only control (like spark side of MegaSquirt, or various other options)? Using wasted spark means you don't need to know which piston is at TDC (like you would with coil on plug). Do any of the M30 engines come with a toothed flywheel?

For 021ytry (who I see is reading the thread as I type) - the recommendation about reading e30tech.com is a good one. The key issue is that it is really only economic to do this if you can do some DIY, since for effective results an aftermarket computer is needed. Basically, it costs heaps - way more than you'd expect.

Depends on the weather, the dyno, the transmission, tyre pressures, blah blah blah. Basically who knows - that's why I put a range, and even then it might be optimistic.

I'll share - about 1000kg (actual weight - nearly out of gas), and I guess 130hp max - the original rated power (102hp at the wheels at Velocity, so probably 125hp), thats: - 125-130hp/tonne - 62-65hp/litre. But I'm happy, coz I did a couple of 1:17s at Puke last weekend

Bend it up and take it into a brake specialist and they can flare the ends? Shouldn't cost much since it's a quick job - the important bit is their flash flaring tool. FWIW, I did bubble flares using the first part of a double flare. It wasn't quite right ... but the third time it sealed fine. Not on my race car (on a mate's one day race Peugeot, haha).

25 deg? That doesn't sound right at all...

Ah come on - I ride as close as possible to the kerb but..... ... frequently not that close. I ride out of the gutter to avoid glass and drains, away from parked cars in areas its likely to have a driver door opened (eg Tamaki Drive through Okahu, Mission or Kohi), and right in the middle of my lane (edit - lol I call it "my" lane) on narrow 4 lane streets where there isn't room to pass me. Good example - Great North Rd down towards Waterview interchange (coming from Avondale). Every 100m or so is a drain grate I CAN'T ride through, so I ride wide enough not to (I'm not going to swerve for each one - that's REALLY dangerous). I also ride wide enough to hopefully discourage people from squeezing past because it's really too narrow down there for 2 cars and a bike.

F&ckers. Good work for stopping to help the cyclist. I cycle a bit (especially more recently - fair weather cyclist!) - its been a bad couple weeks - been shouted at to get off the road a few times, usually by dicks who get caught in traffic 300m later (eg Tamaki Drive). Some chick did a u-turn in front of me and I hit her (just, right at the FRONT of her car, she really screwed it up)... ... so everyone be nice to cyclists. No friggin' protection on a bike, it's kinda scary.

I'm gonna reply again coz I want to subscribe to this. Goldman Sachs JB Were is referred to at the top of this page: www.gsjbw.co.nz Also: www.abnamrocraigs.co.nz www.fnzc.co.nz www.macquarie.co.nz www.asbsecurities.co.nz Disclosure of bias - I bank with ASB (altouhg don't really like them), worked for a while for First NZ, have mates at ABN and Macquarie, and no affiliation to GSJWB.

Sorry for the slow reply. Right, here goes... First up, depending on the broker, you can choose anything from full service (you give them money, they deal with it), through portfolio advice (the "normal") to simple brokerage services. Ummm, quickest example I can find right now is ASB: https://www.asbsecurities.co.nz/section91.asp? You can see that the online trading is the cheapest, and by the sound of it, this sort of thing might suit you - basically an ASB bank account that you can buy and sell shares online or over the phone from, for not too many $$$. ASB Securities is not the only broker offering this service - it's just the first one I looked at. However, if you want advice, I'd personally choose a specialist broker (sorry ASB) and as I said before, one of the major broking houses. Someone's earlier comment about not choosing a n00b broker is fair (they don't know anything yet), and its possibly a bit unfair to warn against an old worn out one (lol). I think it implies an old broker CBF anymore. OK, diversification in 200 words or less.... Finance theory says that there are two types of risk - diversifiable and non-diversifiable. If you own a share, you are exposed to both. If you own 10 shares across different industries, you start to get the benefits of diversification and the diversifiable risk (generally it is company or industry specific risk, although that's a generalisation) starts to cancel out. Basically if something really bad happens that affects one company, it can be positive for another, and the unusual losses (theoretically, over time) cancel out - it's not to say the returns cancel out, only that the volatile, unexpected losses and gains cancel, leaving the expected return. If you have a well diversified portfolio, then the expected returns should be related to the non-diversifiable (also known as systematic or market risk) of your shares, and you should be getting the maximum reward vs risk. Look - I'm not sure that helps, but basically the concept of risk is actually quite complex and not necessarily THAT intuitive (although it should be...). The major difficulty is understanding how markets are (theoretically) priced according to expectations on a companies relative systematic risk. I can't say that last sentence without using "systematic risk". Sorry. OK, I'll try again - if you own a portfolio of shares that aren't diversified, then in the LONG RUN you are taking greater risk for the potential reward than if you had a diversified portfolio. Diversification is difficult - it's not easy to buy enough different shares, across enough industry sectors, without a large $$$ portfolio. For this reason, if you are looking to park some money somewhere for a medium length of time, you should look at index funds such as NZX's SmartShares: http://www.smartshares.nzx.com/ They are a type of investment funds which invests in a portfolio of shares that matches the composition of certain indexes (eg top 10) of the sharemarket. This means it WILL DEFINITELY have the same return as the relevant index (less some relatively low fees). This might not sound that great, but it requires considerable skill, effort and luck to consistently outperform the sharemarket - check up on the record of professional fund managers if you don't believe me. You should look to get some international share exposure if possible (or at very least to Australian stocks). If you still want to invest in individual companies, do your homework - focus on the quality of the earnings, the growth prospects and the management, and in all cases (ie for ANY type of sharemarket investment) you really need to have a timeframe of at least 2-3 years (preferably longer).