CamB

Try the brakes/suspension forum sponsor for parts: http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=13177 Installation is not a difficult job and most garages can do it. Shop around etc - which suburb suits.

Maybe we can side-step a few more questions - you need to use google more. Seriously. Google "e30 brembo brake kit" and there's heaps of stuff. Alternatively go to www.turnermotorsport.com and look through ALL the stuff they sell for E30s.

I dream of 10l. Actually not really, I don't bother trying since it'll never happen. I get 12.5l/100km in mixed driving, about 14l around the city and its about 9l-10l at 100km/hr air con on, in 6th. I figure if you want the performance, you have to pay. Mind you, mine's 3.2 litres and the little devil wants me to rev it. On other cars I've tested aircon at slightly under 1 litre/100km - easily the biggest impact other than driving style and auto vs manual. I reckon there's no magic way to get more - if there was BMW would already be doing it as fuel economy sells. This is the main reason I disbelieve Fuelstar's 10-15% economy improvement claim. Actually interestingly the old 2002 gets better fuel economy - a 2 litre 8v with a (very - 4.27) short diff gets easily under 10l/100km on the open road. I think it's about 8l/100km.

Did you leave the PS in and remove the belt? Or something else?

I looked at that car and was close to buying it - the seller and I couldn't agree on price (and he withdrew it from sale and is going to keep it). He had an opening bid of $25k and reserve/buy now of $27.5k. He'd had very little interest at the over $25k level (i was slightly sub $25k). It had a pre-purchase inspection from Jerry Claytons which didn't identify anything too serious. I can't blame the guy for keeping it since it was a really nice car/colour and he is overseas but planning on returning eventually. M3AN - Your car is probably in slightly nicer condition (not that I've seen it), and NZ new and those wheels are a bonus (the other car was ex-HK). The major positive to his car was it basically had a full ACS kit - 18" wheels, body, steering wheel, etc, plus certed Sachs adjustable suspension, although the ACS bits and suspension do not necessarily improve value much IMHO. I bought my 4 door Evo - NZ new and FSH from BMW for each service over its 100k km - for $22k and it needed ~$1000 worth of "stuff" (new front tyres, new control arm bushings, a 110k km service, etc). I think coupes are worth more, and Estoril is the best colour (by far), and your wheels are hawt.

Arguably you already pay for "it". The lack of compulsory insurance means that comprehensive insurance has to cover a greater range of circumstances where the other driver is uninsured. It's technically possible comprehensive insurance would be cheaper if there was compulsory third party (and it has to be linked to the car). I say "technically possible" because I reckon insurance companies would still screw us all.

If JiB's car makes it to Taupo, around the track, and back, I have a good idea.... he/we could just compare the turns lock to lock (and yes mike - we'll check the wheel angle on the way through too). I don't like the looped power steering - it looks bodgy. I think Jonathan's already on his way to Taupo, but its funny coz he doesn't mention the chain of events which has lead to this issue... I shall expose his shame (lets face it - "my shame" because most of this was my idea). ... old engine mounts means the engine moves around too much at the track, which means... ... the power steering pulley rubbed on the lower radiator hose (creating a pinhole leak), leading to (the shame)... ... removing the PS, looping it, cutting the lower hose 2 inches shorter and it still fits(!). All because of dodgy engine mounts, and the inability to change them (or get a new radiator hose) on a Saturday. I'm in favour of the manual rack since it is there and complete and I don't really approve of looping the PS. I agree it is suboptimal compared to a shorter ratio e36 rack. Reinstalling the PS is not a big deal given the engine mounts will (surely) get replaced, but even reading that guide I get nervous at the RHD vs LHD thing and finding the right lines etc. I guess there are always custom lines.

There will be some draconian way. A big fine would help. With big enough fines etc and effective policing of them, over time the fleet would trend to wof/regn/insured. If it works in Canada, it can be made to work here.

Not in all cases - for example a stock that doesn't pay dividends (or very small ones), but reinvests for growth, will show an increase in value through the share price and this isn't "speculation", but I take your point. Our economy definitely runs on credit - that's one of the key reasons why we have such a high current current account deficit.

I'm not planning on it. I haven't given up thoughts of turboing mine, but would should for 200-250hp from 2 litres. You're right, it probably would be cheaper. I'd still go the Toyota because its comparatively easier/cheaper to get gears cut for it (because its well known). _Dan - IF the gearbox is from the S14 M3 engine, it is already pretty strong. There are stronger ones which have been suggested. BMW engines discussed here which are relevant to you: M10 - the early 4 cylinder engine from late '60s to 1985(?) - various sizes from 1.6 to 2.0 litres. A pre-facelift 318i E30 has the 1.8 litre version. S14 - came only in the E30 M3 - basically an M10 block (not quite, but close) with a 4 valve per cylinder head. M30 - early 6 cylinder engine - same age as the M10, and basically an M10 with 2 extra cylinders S50 something - the M5/M6 engine, which is pretty much a 4 valve per cylinder M30. The S14 gearbox is a dogleg Getrag 265. I think the M30s also had 265s, but don't know if all 265s are equally strong. If boxes from more powerful engines are stronger, I'd guess the M5 box is strongest. Given the stupendous amount of money you will need to spend to get the HP you want out of an M3 engine, on top of the already high cost of the engine and the required rebuild to handle boost, can I suggest either: - finding someone local who is a guru - you'll need them at every step of the way; or - going with a Toyota or Nissan turbo 4 or 6, coz it'll be cheaper.

I actually quite like MMP - we have comparatively centralist governments. I see the advantage in compromise since no party is able to implement sweeping change / controversial policies. For anyone considering whinging in response to this such as "what about the [insert controversial bill here] bill", (a) they were all storms in a teacup driven by interest groups on both sides and (b ) if the sponsoring party had had a majority they would just be made law at high speed with very little debate, and you should recognise that this would be worse... Finally "time for a change" is a crappy reason to vote someone out. It should be policy and leadership focused.

Also there is an even more expensive dogleg box from the 2002's which would fit (it's weak too). How much power are you talking? For what purpose (drag? street?). How will you get the power? 300hp from a turbo M10 is not out of the question (neither is 500hp, but that will cost $$$$$$$$). I'd put a Toyota supra w58 box on if it was me and I was serious. They take 300hp easy. Conversion kit readily available, with high power clutch options, from: http://www.conversioncomp.co.nz/ in NZ (note a BMW 2002 is a '70s BMW with an M10 engine), or possibly http://www.dellowauto.com.au/ in Australia (they don't list one for BMWs).

There's some evidence "investor" is actually "speculator". As you say, futures are different to buying and holding the physical asset - there are winners and losers (from value changes) without actually affecting the underlying supply. This "virtual ownership" appears to be making the price significantly more volatile.

8L/100km eh? I'd be surprised - the M3 can't do that driving a steady 100kph in 6th, and it weighs less, has a smaller engine, and no bling bling chromies adding 10kg of unsprung weight .... per corner. If he want's to call it "M" who cares - plenty of M318is out there.

It won't work because the oil companies will actually have a fairly limited ability to reduce the price and still make money. The "profit" component for the **local** oil companies is not a large part of the final price of petrol. Sure, BP could reduce the price if no-one went, and that might cause the others to follow, but in a reasonably short period of time they'd need to raise it again or face losses. The best case scenario would see the price lowered to a point where the oil companies **just** made enough money to cover costs (but little or no profit), which would mean little or no ongoing investment in NZ. I'd guess this might be 5c a litre - there appears to already be ample competition between the oil companies in the countries to keep prices down as far as they can push them. (edit) for those who think it would work "worldwide", it won't - a competitor which became "weak" purely because of consumer activism would be acquired by one of the remaining "strong" competitors ---> back to status quo but with one less participant in the market (ie arguably less competition).

I use Penrite HPR15, but I race mine and want the greater protection for hot oil. In any case I have an oil pressure gauge and unless the oil is extremely hot (ie end of a race) I have heaps and heaps of pressure (when hot I merely have heaps). At 180k km I'd use a good brand 20W50, and don't get a synthetic as on an engine that old it is more likely to leak.

Depends on how tired the engine is. It's possibly a bit thick - the manual probably says 20W50 (I have checked - I can't remember).

Pre-facelift E30.

Yeah - I'm sure you are right, but I don't have lots of negative camber since its only an old (and not particularly low) 2002. I have about 2 deg and am going to try a little more. That was all I meant by "depends on the car". It's possible NZPOMs car doesn't have excessive camber and/or incorrect toe. NZPOM - I reckon you should find someone who can tell you if your car is playing up or if its a sacrifice to make for those wheels/tyres. A standard M3 has wide tyres, not much camber but lots of caster - in my case it doesn't tramline at all. Do you know what your aligment is now?

It's all explained here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Horsepower I remembered before looking at the link that PS = Pferdestaerke - direct german translation of horse power. Don't choose salami with Pferd in the supermarket in Austria.

Ipod has shock protection on the HDD - not sure about some of those other ones. Insisting on loss-less to listen in the car is a bit precious. Fine at home, fine on personal stereo (if you've got good headphones), but it is highly unlikely you can hear the difference at 50kph through ANY car stereo (no matter how carefully put together).

Bravo's idea is a good one - unplug, unmount and remove them at the track. You better bolt it down securely though! If you can find a cheap enough amp you could use that mounted to the box, plus an Ipod. Or you could use the 4" Sonys in your parts car. You've probably forgotten about those. Or, you could harden up, LOL. Your car is quiet (he's got a standard exhaust). I use earplugs and noise cancelling headphones.

You could try Euro-Italian - the sponsor of the For Sale forum.

Depends on the car - mine's terrible because the alignment is out (or something else is wrong). Before that it was fine...

I've heard the biggest issues are trim parts and rust (particularly bad, even for a 70s car) ... so don't crash one or drive it in the rain!