Boost Junky

I think I will watch and laugh.. dunno if i wanna see the dude who fell on the fence actually i think ive seen it before...

Hah thanks Chris! Just need to make them fit properly now.. cant even steer lol help if i had springs in it aye. Will put coilovers in this week and gotta put the 5 stud on the rear still.

Hahaha good effort Livi! I think Jamez takes the cake though some funny funny s$%t!!!

OMG thats mind boggling awesome man

Lol... never really listened to the lyrics till seeing this

Ahh my bad i should have said M3 arms.. hopefully I can find some here in NZ. Thanks guys for the help.

Ok so ive got the offset bushes just need the E36 EVO control arms.. are they the MSport arms? I might wait till ive put my coilovers in first and then see how it all sits and take it from there. Yea I might press the OE E36 standard ones out and see what some of the boys can machine up for me. Whoa so some of the M3 ones are fairly hard! Haha yea gotta do something about that.. have now got the correct 9" rims on the front now they clear the guard much better but still touch, got my BC Coilovers today so ill bring the height up slightly and do some guard work then just need to address the castor issue. Thanks guys

Would help if i put the hydraulic lifters up the right way! theres always some simple stupid mistake that throws you off on hours of frustrasion... then you click haha!

Hey Guys, well have been trying to set my timing up on my M50 for the past 3 hours now and am totally stumped!! They haynes manual says that the no1 piston (closet to timing chain end) should be at tdc and that the cam shafts at no1 piston face up and towards each other with the square flanges on the ends of the camshafts at the firewall end shoul be 90deg square with the horizontal edge of the back of the head. Once this is achieved you can put the chain on. Problem is before you put the camshafts on the crank has to be wound counter clockwise 30deg so that the valves clear the pistons. Which way is counter clockwise.... counter clockwise when sitting in the car behind the motor or counter clockwise looking from the front of the car at the crank shaft pulley? I have tried 30deg both sides of TDC on the crank and the valves will simply not let me bring the crank back to TDC on the crank. Maybe its because im not allowing the lifters to settle for 30mins? Im stumped so any light someone could shed is much appreciated, im willing to ring someone if they can tell me what im doing wrong. Cheers, Luke

Cheers Graham, autlign are one of our suppliers at work so that should be mint ill send my bushes upto their workshop if need be. Yea those prices are all real good but im sure I can do it cheaper than that through autolign or doing custom solid alloy mounts like naughty bmw. Thanks for the links guys have seen them all before and atleast I know what options are available now PS. front E36 Hubs are on with offset bushes and look at my castor Im thinking of fabricating my own adjustable front lower control arms to allow castor adjustment, got the people and know how... just a matter of wether i can get them certified or not. Anyone know why the offset bushes didnt fix the castor?

Oh yea I saw that haha cheers So there is no where I can purchase some in NZ? I have looked through the Nolothane book at work no such luck... I could possibly match something up from measurements.

Haha you guys crack me up. So use urethane bushings instead of solid aluminum? They arnt to badly priced at all.. Remember im using E36 rear subframe im sure they are the same though as far as the mounting bushes go. Thanks guys

Yea didnt think about that but makes perfect sense thanks dude. Might just install my 5stud conversion for now to get the car mobile again and address more serious modifications closer to track time I think

So solid mounting the subframe means the movement from the subframe transfers to the diff I take it? So I would need a solid mount for the diff and to reinforce where the diff mounts to the underbody of the car to prevent it ripping away?

Have done a search on here and Google but can not find much information on solid mounting my rear subframe. There is bushes to help stiffen the subframe up but I have heard of other people welding large washers at each end or clamping the factory bushings by adding plenty of washers against the factory bushes. I know naughty bmw has done the welded washers to the ends of the subframe bushes. Can anyone else shed anymore light on doing this? Cheers, Luke

ROFL! That is gold!

E36 Engine mounts. Have a look at my m50 swap here.

Haha crackup!

HB Max make the most of it

So is aye! Yea man trust me mines yonks away from affording paint, thats my last finishing touch after ive done coilovers, strut bars, sway bars, bushes, cage, radiator, oil cooler haha the list never ends

Told you great minds think alike lol! will you still be my friend if I paint mine that colour in the near future!

Yea Cam, most of the heads we get in for customers from these suppliers are bare without any other working/moving parts. The suppliers also supply them aditionally. Cheers DRTDVL thanks for the heads up.

Hah yea I know that Nath but whos saying hes painting it this colour?? Opps just clicked Si was meaning mattzy should paint his car this colour lol? Nah man not that one well as far as I know anyway... I dunno if ive sen that one on e30tech dude

Haha whats it got to do with Mattzy Si? Nah no way well imo anyway already seen on a turbo E30 in Europe, Like James said.. will look tough woops BOT

Pretty sure they normally just come as a bare head on their own Cam.