Boost Junky

I rekon make the limos a bit longer brook they are normally longer than that arnt they?

Thanks Chris I wouldnt say everything is to the highest quality haha.... was a bit jimmyed up redrilling the strut towers but I think it will work! Thanks aye im real happy with the car man. Yea they are rather stiff Cam but should be really nice on the track and yea im definitely ok with it! When you have a drive Cam let me know if your ok with it hahah! Yep will do Jib if it finally ever makes it to the tuner lol. Yep the front is already 5 stud and got the front coilovers in just finished 10mins ago. As for the rear i may just use urethane bushes to mount the rear sub frame now they should tighten the rear up alot more and will most likely do all the other bushes as well. The BC's are for E36 hence why I have had to redrill the front strut toweres. Not quite happy with how they turned out but I think the allignment should fix that. Yea im just gonna leave the springs as they are for now and see how she rides but I dont think I will change them cause the car is eventually going be more of a track car. What does your car ride like on the track with the R888's? Haha why are my springs 2x longer that yours? It 3 wheels haha? Mine had no springs in before and when I drove it into the garage it 3 wheeled on the curb and i got stuck! Then the b#$%H lady down the road called noise control and a security guard turned up to tell me off... as soon as he saw my car he was hooked lol! Yea just about Livi... hah when I can be bothered working on it after work hours! Spent 30hrs putting my motor back together last weekend! Graham the BC Golds cost me $1450.. I get them at a real good price as I work at Partmaster and Phil in Wellington looks after us realy well, please dont go asking for that price anyone im probably not meant to tell you my cost haha! Shot Alex appreciate the possitive comments, gives me more motivation to get her finished!

Someone should get those pipes off Matt for me for my exhaust yes please?

Looks sik Jase! Are you still gonna do that course Blair?

So I got my injectors today... They are RX7 Redtop 550cc injectors, high impendance and fit the factory rail. The injectors were flow tested and all seals were replaced with new ones. I think he flowed my factory M50 injectors at around 180cc so the RX7 injectors flow much higher! RX7 Injector is the top Red one: This is the factory M50 fuel rail: Here I have cut the factory FPR off the end and will have it welded closed with a hose fitting on the end for the fuel return line which will run to the aftermarket RRFPR: I also received my BC Gold Coilovers on Monday. They have 30 levels of damper adjustment and are height adjustable front and rear. The springs are rated at 8kg which seem pretty stiff, the front top hats have camber adjustment also. Now I just need some fine weather to install all these items then exhaust and of too the tuners Im still deciding wether to run a muffler as it is suprisingly quite with the turbo on there. Keep your eyes peeled for more updates comming soon people. Cheers, Luke

Hell I may as well go back to my DA6 Vtec days FTW

Chur Chris, its descent aye! Brook is the one to thank for this

Gear up bimmersporters we must be prepared for the big one! We shall not be defeated So there are a few members on this site deliberately signing them up Andrew?

Go get em PITA huh.. seems they are becoming more frequent these damn bots.

Whats with Taotao? Im guessing its a spam bot going by the random life storeys that relate absolutely in no way to the threads in which they are posting...

Very nice brockie! Jealous of the rims!

Happy Birthday dude!

Haha u gotta admit that tinfoil face one is pretty cool... but yea back on topic

Yo Jared! Hope you had a good one! Happy Birthday

These are awesome minus the center caps. If I had the money I would have ran them over my new wheels

Haha maybe... just maybe livi Lol likewise graham

Yea minus the intercooler bonnet and rear glass it would be ok.

Haha one prob liv... You have 2 extra wheels to get power to the ground, be interesting to see though

Hahaha that video is awesome Shelley! got a link to the winning video?

+1 for graphite... if its what im thinking, dark greyish or even shadow chrome looks mint

Cheers Ollie, the reason the head was not assembled on a bench is because it has to be bare to be able to access the head studs to do them up. The ARP Head studs are a 13mm nut which you cannot fit a socket down between the carriers. Yea not far lol well that might be an option for me i priced up the stainless one today $290 retail make one for way less! Thats right byron a whole 10" on the rear and 9" on the front... oh and they are 17s

Yea im just gonna mount a stainless one where the battery used to be behind the drivers side strut tower not sure how much room there is in the skuttle plate area on an E30 compared to a peugeot...

Yea I was abit sceptical about it myself but Dad assured me that it would be fine and thats what he used to use.. however this is comming from his experience of over 25years ago and things have probably changed since then. Suprisingly the blocks surface was still relatively smooth after I had finished and I have used emry tape in the past on other motors, I guess time will tell.. havnt found any leaks since it has been running.. worse comes to worse I will have to remove the head and redo the block. Thanks Mike, I hope it works out aye lol

+1 haha

Ok so I have finally made some progress! As you all know I ordered a MLS Cometic Headgasket 0.140" and a set of ARP 2000 Headstuds which have finally arrived. Before these could be installed the head had to be removed of course, which was done and as I mentioned in my last post I had it freshened up slightly, I also replaced all the exhaust manifold studs. Before: After: After having the head overhauled I got to work on the block. With a glass scraper I scraped off as much old head gasket as possible, then resurfaced the block using a file covered with emery tape. To reduce the amount of crap going down the side of the pistons, I lined the bores with oil to catch as much debri as possible. Before: After: I also cleaned as much oil out of the head bolt holes as possible using brake clean and a rag on the end of a piece of welding wire. If this procedure is ignored the left over oil in the bolt holes can hydraulic and cause the block to crack around the head bolts due to the pressure. With everything ready to go back together the headbolts are ready to be installed, coated with assembly lube supplied with the studs they are wound into the block and tightened by hand with a hex key. With the head studs in place the Cometic MLS gasket was then placed over the headbolts and down onto the block, this is the beauty of the ARP headstuds.. they help guide the head gasket and head itself precisely into position along with the locating dowels in the block. Unfortunately amongst the anticipation of things finally falling into place I forgot to take a photo of the headgasket in place, she took a bit of effort pressing over the factory locating dowels but after 5mins of frustration I managed to work the headgasket on. With the headgasket in place I then he-maned the head on as nobody was around to help lift it on.. what a strugle it was.. I then re-assembled the head, when doing this kind of work it kinda pays to focus and not get distracted or you may end up doing this... Lifters Upside Down.. I ended up wasting roughly 4 hours stumped on why I could not bring the crank back to TDC once the cams were bolted down and locked at TDC. I finally gave up and sat down to research solutions on the net for 30mins and somehow it popped into my head that early in the day I had installed the lifters around the wrong way in turn holding the valves slightly too far open which prevented the pistons from being able to do a full cycle. After previously having the camshafts off 4 times I pulled them off one more time and set all the lifters around the correct way, this allowed me to the crank back to TDC.. Woops Eventually I managed to get the head back together and the timing gears and chains into place, once this was done I cranked the motor over by hand at the crank pulley for two cycles to ensure there was no piston to valve contact. Factory M50 Inlet & Exhaust Camshafts: Head Assembled: I also tested the exhaust manifold and cleaned it up while waiting for parts from the states. A friend of mine works for CooperHeat and had access to crack testings gear. We used to methods called MPI (Mag Particle Inspection) and DPI (Die Penetrant Inspection). We found three cracks in the manifold and had them repaired before bead blasting and painting the manifold with high temp paint. MPI Testing: The manifold is sprayed with a magnetic die, the magnet draws the die into the material and under a special black light you can see the cracks. DPI Testing: Because the wastegate flange was made from stainless and the rest of the manifold made of mild steel steam tube we decided to do an extra MPI test to double check there were no cracks where the stainless had been welded to the mild steel. The area to be inspected is sprayed with a special penetrant die and left for a period of time. The excess penetrant die is removed then a developer is applied which brings any cracks visible to the naked eye. Manifold Bead Blasted: Manifold Heat Painted: I will be removing the manifold one more time to be heat wrapped and add a few braces to help support the weight of the its heavy construction. All that is left for me to do now is finish the exhaust off which we will be doing this weekend hopefully and I have a custom 3" muffler being made up from a local exhaust shop. My injectors are being setup and should be complete this week. Im using RX7 550cc Redtop injectors, which are the same impendance as the stock M50 injectors. So all I have left to do is install the injectors and setup my rising rate FPR then off to the tuner she goes! Exciting stuff for me! I will keep you all posted on the final few stages that are left Cheers, Luke