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zenetti

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Posts posted by zenetti

  2. Posted · Report reply

    Sorry not trying to be a hater, really not.

    In an e46 the other thing this causes is the subframe to tear away from the unibody. It will happen in 6mths - 1 yr running this low. Once that happens the only one to fix it is replacing the unibody section as repairs dont work. the cost of the work runs into the 1000's

    sorry if its sounds like a go at ya but just giving fair warning of what will / does happen when you run the e46 shape at these heights.

    I can confirm this does happen, I know of at least 2 E46's that have had to have the whole rear subframe repaired and at $6k plus it is not a cheap fix!!

    Hopefully you will sell it before it happens to you, it is not a case of IF, it is a case of WHEN!!

  7. Posted · Report reply

    GASsing for a 7 at the moment

    http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=199971262

    http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=202285079

    wouldn't mind seeing more pics of the 740i .. seems like a decent price to me based on condition.

    Any comments on the 730i V8? .. not too familiar with these

    BTW, if you aren't familiar with the term, GAS stands for 'Gear Acquisition Syndrome' .. common amongst musicians, especially guitarists :D

    How much are youl ooking at spending? We have a blue 740 for sale at the moment, grey leather done just over 100k from memory.

  10. Posted · Report reply

    What do you concern of the rear type?

    Do you have any similar sets for the same budget? Im in Auckland. Please send me some foto if you have ones.

    THanks alot/

    KElvin

    I don't have anything similar in stock currently but do have plenty of options available. A 225/35/1 on a 9.5" rim is not ideal - you really need a 255/30 or 265/30/19 tyre

  11. Posted · Report reply

    They should fit on nicely, however the stretch on that rear tyre is a concern. I had to laugh when he said genuine ruff racing wheels imported from the USA :lol: - they are made in China like 98% of all wheels.

    Would be a bargain at $1500

  16. Posted · Report reply

    eeee Lutons (flavour of the month Chinese crud) id look at upgrading them if ya can afford it dude. they cheap an very prone to impact fracturing an cracking in the sidewall from poor manufacturing. but if ya stuck with them 38 front 36 rear or 38 all around. well that's my recommendation change to suit your ride comfort level. ^_^

    bang on the money again :D . I would run 38psi all round, just cos Nankang's aren't exactly a 'quality' brand. (No offence intended).

  17. Posted · Report reply

    alpina!!!! stupid nz dollar i aint even got my new bm yet an i want the wheels. especial in a e30 offset mmmmm if i ever need mags i think ill come to u johno instead of my boss :D i never seen us with anything for e30s

    cheers mate

    STUPID NZ $ is right. We got our hopes up a few days back when the dollar went to .54, but back down again now at.52 :( . You guys will be the first to know when we do a new order :D

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Well, BMW figures say 323i E36 F30-R36, and we run factory recommended F31-R37 in our E46.

    But perhaps this is wrong, Is 215/45R17 a factory E36 size? There's only 225/45R17 in the list?

    Note, I am not a qualified tyre person. Just wondering why BMW used such different figures to what you're recommending. Perhaps German roads are much different to ours (this is assuming they use universal pressures for all countries).

    Were those figures specific to the 17" wheels or were they referring to a 15" or 16" tyre size? You will find that the lower the profile tyre generally the higher the recommended pressure rating.

    A 225/45/17 is 100% the correct upsize tyre for most 3 series BMW, however on some BMW's (little baby 4 cylinders :P ) a 215/45/17 is fine as it is only 9mm smaller in overall diameter. this equates to 4.5mm top and bottom.

    If you figure that new tyres usually have approx 8mm of tread and have 6.5mm of usuuble tread before they need to be replaced the 4.5mm difference is less than the difference between a new tyre and a tyre that needs to be replaced. ( hope that makes sense).

    To ensure that your ABS works properly, gearbox works smoothly, speedo reads correct etc you should always try and keep within 3% of the original overall diameter when upsizing to new wheels and tyres.

    Underinflated tyres are the most coommon cause of problems we see at work, and most customers assume that their owners manual is the bible. Generally the pressures listed in the manual are referring to the OE size tyre (generally a 15" or 16" tyre) and does not take into + sizing.

    There is no magic formula for getting the pressures correct as every tyre manufacturer is different in terms of their construction, tread design, etc which is why there is ageneral recommendation pressure range.

    You will also find that the better quality tyres have a much stronger sidewall construction and so do not need to run as high pressure as the cheaper ones. This has the flow on effect of giving the feeling of 'better grip'. You will find by adding extra psi you are artificially strenghtening the sidewall of the tyre, which is needed in the cheaper tyres.

    It always pays to check the construction of the tyre, as I think this far more important. This is generally in very small print in the sidewall of the tyre. I won't go into explaining that here as well as that will require the writing of another novel ;)

    At the end of the day it pays to talk to the person that is selling you tyres to get the correct info. If you don't feel comfortable with their knowledge ( or lack of) buy your tyres somewhere else. :)

  21. Posted · Edited by zenetti · Report reply

    I bought a car off same people, I know you havent listed who but yeah .. Matthew Wishart from Newport Imports. Dodgy fella, apparently they have a bad history with the LMVDA, was warned afterward to stick away from them as they had a pretty bad reputation.

    I don't know where you get your info from but................

    knowing Matt personally I would have to say he is one of the best out there, his cars are always in great condition, and he is great to deal with. You might be confused with another car dealer very nearby.

    As Glenn said......... you might want to edit or delete your post just in case you get a call from a lawyer.

  22. Posted · Edited by zenetti · Report reply

    Yeah bro for sure!

    Kinda thinking I need 20mm's on the rear.. Get some of that -12 offset going on! :lol:

    Heard you sold your E30?

    Haha epic threads lads.

    Cheers for the support!

    PS stop bidding on the AC front lip on Trademe ;)

    I have a pair of 25mm bolt-on adaptors if you want to part with some more cash :lol:

  24. Posted · Report reply

    Just to add my 2c worth.

    My work van is 35% tints on the passenger and drivers windows - I was told (by Tint-a-car) this is legally as dark as you are allowed to go on the front windows. My rear and side windows in back of the van are 5% - and this is bloody dark. I think some people call them limo tints. The only reason I was allowed to go this dark is because I am carrying goods and the vehicle is a van. Most MA class vehicles (passenger) are only allowed 35% tints - its written in the WOF requirements.

    I really can't be bothered throwing around insults and debating the pros and cons. I see plenty of terrible advice on the forums and have come to the opinion that if people are silly enough to believe this so-called 'advice' from so-called 'experts', then they deserve all the grief they get when it goes pear-shaped!

    cheers :)

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