zenetti

pm sent

we just landed a replica set. From memory they are 17x8 at 38ET. Will check on Monday for you if you like.

measure from the inside of one bead to the inside of the other bead on your wheel, this will give you the width

The guy that writes that guide is an absolute dickhead! The last one I looked at every car was either "Just OK" or "Avoid like the plague". I think we had a bet on to find out which car he recommended and couldn't find one. I wouldn't trust anything he says.

bump - ttt have added a better pic to the first post

Hi Guys and Gals Just wanted to say a massive thank you for all your support throughout this year and hopefully through the next. May everyone have a safe and merry Christmas and a happy New Year. Cheers Johno

We almost need to set up something like the SPCA.................. SPCB

hahaha - The weird thing is I figured out what you trying to say

Take your business elsewhere! I thought "agreed value" meant that both parties agreed on the value of the car. If they drop the "agreed value" without your knowing, it doesn't really make it "agreed value" at all. We had the same thing with the wife's RAV4 from the same insurere. We are now with State, have saved over $200 a year and the agreed value is higher!

Nunchuck Baseball FTW!

Best bang for buck - Nexen Best performance tyre - Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric

to check the date of manufacture there should be a 4 digit stamp somewhere on the tyre. eg 1208 - this means the tyre was manufactured in the 12 week of 2008, so 4303 will mean the 43rd week of 2003 etc. Anything older than 6 years the rubber generally starts to harden and 'go off' and as hybrid suggested loses its grip.

Our reps have the recess for the M badge. The only real way to tell is to take the wheel off as mentioned earlier.

I am sorry but you deserve everything you get! If you can't drive such a "fast car" responsibly, maybe you should get a Daihatsu Mira. That way you will never get to the speed limit and never get a ticket! To put your little rant above into perspective......... Australia you only get 10 demerit points over 2 years, and you can also get pulled over and fined (including demerit points) for going TOO SLOW in the fast lane. ACTUALLY........... I wish they would do that here too. Too many NZ drivers sit in the fast lane when the "slow lane" is generally free.

Drifit - unfortunately you are wrong in this case. The car must have an MR2a before the 31st of December. That is the car must be imported and complied before the 31st of December. The new rules are an emissions based rule, cars that come into the country must have at least a GH emission code. Some manufacturers only started producing GH in 2006 while other manufacturers actually started in 2002. This is what has caused the confusion. To be safe the best thing to look at is the emission code (GH) and be frontal impact compliant. To be fair you are correct on the 20 year rule though. Hope this helps to clear it up for everyone.

If you want to run in the E30 race class I thought you HAD to use King springs and Koni shocks?

That is pretty cool. We used to do something similar on top of Paritutu with the power station chimney down in New Plymouth. All you Naki people will know where I am talking about. Of course it used to be with film cameras so there was a lot of hit and miss.

Hi guys I have a slight problem with this forum and hoping someone can clear it up. On the home page under "what's happening inthe forum" there is sometimes race series discussion which, when I click on it comes back with an error saying the link is broken. Is it just me or does this happen to any other people? Any help would be great. If it is just for the series racers - how about opening it up to everyone. There will be alot of people (myself included) who are seriously thinking about entering the series. cheers

The photos were taken at work here The paint is actually in very good condition, I will probably give it a clay bar and wax later this arvo just to make it really shiny.

we have FIA approved 6 point belts in stock! they come with all bolts etc and expire 2013. Price to fellow Bimmersporters $229

found this last night - looks to be good value for money http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-192584054.htm

no such thing as a good cheap tyre you can have a cheap tyre but it won't be good or you can have a good tyre that won't be cheap. You have a PM.

It will absolutely, definitely, 100% be the Wanli's. They are terrible for road noise!! It sounds as though they have scalloped which will cause the noise. We were the agents for then up until about 2 years ago. We gave the agency away because the tyres must be one of the noisiest around and they have massive problems with sidewalls cracking. The only way to fix it is with new tyres. Don't put a budget tyre (ie Chinese) tyre on a European car. It is best to spend an extra bit of money and get something liek our Nexen's which are absolutely superb value for money. There are a few people here using them and so far all have given positive response about them. They are very quiet, have great levels of grip and wear well. The biggest plus is that you can get them for a very good price through your friendly Bimmersport sponsor (PM me for a deal through our chch branch)

Falling asleep affects your ABILITY to operate a motor vehicle

I think he died because the other guy due to his LACK OF DRIVING ABILITY ploughed into his car. Please someone correct me if I am wrong. Drunk driving impairs your ABILITY to operate a motor vehicle. Sorry but I don't believe accidents just happen - there is always a reason behind it. Case in point, I stubbed my toe today, because of my INABILITY to watch where I was going.