Etwenty1

these are off having the lips machined to remove all traces of kerbage then will be PD'd in original silver.

3 Series E21 = PCD 4x100, centre bore 57.0mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 12-20 3 Series E30 = PCD 4x100, centre bore 57.0mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 15-35 .......sorry mine are probably not right for you.

http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....mp;#entry459336 negotiable...

Set the timing and no change. Looks like i have the external inline pump with the transfer/sender in the tank. Pulled the sender unit and not sure if it even has a pump in it. Can anyone confirm the options? It is a large while plastic tube with a screen on the base. A float moving inside put no sign of a pump module in there. 3 pin connector (gauge plus empty light?)and 2 metal hoses in/out one big one small. I blew through both hoses and there is no resistance.

new tv, thanks D**k S***h

Have just done the HG on a '85 318i with the m10 engine........ no spare bits left over except one weird looking plug/screw with a coarse thread. is about an m6 diameter...... Anyway the car runs sweetly at idle and low revs but cuts out under throttle at around 3000 rpm. It doesn't stall just drops down to about 1100rpm then kicks away again. I'm thinking fuel pumps(s) but have no fuel pressure gauge. Is there an easy way to isolate a fault between the two pumps and/or the fpr without a gauge? I have not checked the timing with a light yet but its pretty close. Fault did not exist prior to HG change. Any other ideas appreciated.

Check your unloader relays - K5 or K7 iirc

25

A set of rims that i am not familiar with, perhaps someone can identify? Correct fitment for e30 and they come with 4x black plastic centre caps each with a bmw roundel $850 for the set. Happy to freight at buyers cost and risk.

Set of 4 rims, freshly sandblasted and ready for powder coating. Buy now and choose your colour $800 for the set, happy to freight at buyers risk and cost. see other set too.

I have a set of genuine 15x7 basketweaves and another set of 15x7 that are the correct fitment for an E30. Both sets have just been sandblasted and will be powdercoated very soon. Does your budget stretch to fully refurbed wheels or are you after something rough? see my 2 listings under sale

Excuse my ignorance but that rotating stand is awesome. Did you buy or fab that? Is it powered?

I have a $800 rule when buying e30's.......

Back in my "mullet and rx7" days I added some pro-ma additive to 12a rotary- the engine note and exhaust smell changed immediately and a few weeks later the centre shaft seals failed.........coincidence?

I had this repair carried out by the BM dealer in Rotorua (Autohaus?) about 10 years ago. They re-welded a tab onto the flywheel, Not sure if it tab is magnetic though.

The issue is how long should an item you buy last for. In this instance it should last for a period that a reasonable consumer would expect. Older CRT TV's last 10 years easy so why should 4 years be a "good run" on a top of the line model? How long do you expect your new phone gadget to last for? 6 months? and whats that got to do with some twat buying a compaq?

Will do, i think it stinks when companies like this (D**k S***h in this instance)have a corporate strategy to minimize refunds or returns. They employ every trick in the book to avoid their CGA responsibilities. Step 1 - try to fob customer off onto manufacturer. Step 2 - refuse to accept return of faulty goods unless customer signs form accepting costs Step 3 - out source assessment of faulty goods so that floor staff have no authority to resolve defects Step 4 - Tell customer that their product has reached the end of its life anyway. Step 5 - only accept complaints via email. Step 6 - query the genuineness of the customers crappy thermal printer receipt that fades after 6 months.etc, etc

Hey out of interest did you buy any of those extended warranties? I am currently taking a box box retailer to disputes tribunal after a 4 year old Sony (parents tv) LCD developed a permanent screen defect. First they try to fob you off to deal with the manufacturer, then will not accept the set back unless you accept costs and pay a bond etc. Now they are saying 4 years is the expected life of a new t.v. I have never seen anything is those bs ads (all the same) saying that while your old CRT was good for 10 years plus, the new tech only lasts half as long. I'm stickin' with my 29' CRT, crap is still crap regardless of the plate you serve it on.

replaced the trashed ignition, added some fresh gas and got the 323 running for a compression test. Unfortunately brown mayo started showing in the expansion tank..........i now have 2 e30's with blown HG's! there is a large vacuum line that comes up from under the intake and connects to the intake just above the rocker cover. (driver side of intake manifold) where the idle? screw is. Someone has put a cap in that pipe...? with the cap removed the idle is up around 2k. Is this a popular mod/bypass? The original air box has been changed to a pod filter if that is relevant.

did you manage to reuse the existing link when you changed your chain?

Did you manage to reuse the old one?

Thanks.

maybe different on LHD. No worries.

I have managed to get the slip ring and everything off but had to cold chisel off the flange and the round locking stud under the column. The allow assembly was busted anyway. For removing my donor ignition i need to extract that locking stud/bolt without wrecking stuff. Has anyone worked this out? Its a smooth round head bolt that screws in on an angle I have read lots of threads on removing the barrel but can't find anything on this.